Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 岩场 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | 日期 | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5+ |
Champignon Merveilleux P1
1
5+
| 110m, 2 | Val Porcellizzo | 星期一 21st 8月 2023 | |||||
5+/6- | ★★★ Via Mauri | 400m | Val Porcellizzo | 星期二 22nd 8月 2023 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Fessura Della S | 20m | Sasso Remenno | ★★★ 经典 | 星期四 4th 9月 2008 | ||||
7 | ★★★ Oceano Irrazionale | 400m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期一 10th 9月 2007 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期五 27th 4月 2007 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Luna Nascente | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期五 7th 9月 2007 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期天 9th 9月 2007 | ||||
6a | ★★★ Self control | 200m, 5 | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期三 5th 9月 2007 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Mattino Dopo | 370m | Val del Ferro | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 28th 4月 2007 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Mattino Dopo | 370m | Val del Ferro | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 9th 6月 2007 | ||||
6a |
★★ King Kong P1
- with
LL
1
6a
25m
| 25m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 10th 10月 2023 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Via Del Bosca | 25m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 10th 10月 2023 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ 1997, Fuga da san Martino - with LL | 20m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 10th 10月 2023 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Fitzcarraldo | 12m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 10th 10月 2023 | ||||
6c | ★★★ Spigolo Fumasoni - with LL | 12m | Sasso Remenno | 星期二 10th 10月 2023 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Spanna - with LL | 12m | Sasso Remenno | 星期二 10th 10月 2023 | |||||
6a - b ~6b | Scimmiagallina - with LL | 31m, 6 | Val di Mello | 星期天 8th 10月 2023 | |||||
5a |
★★ Stomaco Peloso
- with
LL
1
5a
50m
2
4a
20m
| 70m | Val di Mello | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 8th 10月 2023 | ||||
5c |
★★ L'alba del Nirvana
- with
LL
1
5c
45m
2
5b
30m
3
5a
20m
4
4c
30m
| 130m | Val di Mello | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 8th 10月 2023 | ||||
6a+ ~6a |
★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini
- with
LL
1
5a
45m
2
6a+
40m
3
5b
40m
4
5b
25m
5
5b
40m
6
5c
40m
7
4a
45m
8
5a
45m
9
5c
40m
10
5a
25m
| 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期一 9th 10月 2023 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Borotalco - with LL | 26m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期一 9th 10月 2023 | ||||
6b | ★★★ La Crepa Del Bamba - with LL | 30m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期一 9th 10月 2023 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Diedro Dei Furodendri - with LL | 20m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 10th 10月 2023 | ||||
6b |
★★★ Luna Nascente
- with
LL
1
6b
20m
2
6a
25m
3
5b
30m
4
5c+
40m
5
5c
40m
lead by
LL
6
5b
40m
7
5b
50m
lead by
LL
8
3a
35m
9
5a
60m
| 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期三 11th 10月 2023 | ||||
6b |
★★ Il Lamone e le sue Placce
- with
LL
1
6a+
25
2
6b
30
3
6a
35
4
5b
50
lead by
LL
5
4b
45
6
5b+
50
7
4c
15
lead by
LL
| 250m, 16 | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期四 12th 10月 2023 | ||||
7a+ ~6c | ★★★ Budino Buono - with LL | 20m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期四 12th 10月 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ La petite folie - with LL | 25m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期四 12th 10月 2023 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Col Permesso della Mamma | 15m | Val di Mello | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 12th 10月 2023 | ||||
6c Hard |
★★ Piedri Di Piombo
- with
LL
1
6c
40
2
6b
25
3
6b
30
| 95m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期五 13th 10月 2023 | ||||
I finally got meaning of "foot on fire". Really hard slabs in SL2 and SL3. We had only limited time so we bailed after SL3. I think I will NOT come back for the rest
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4c 5a | ★★ no name | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 16th 9月 2019 | |||||
4c 5a | ★★ no name | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 16th 9月 2019 | |||||
4c 5a | ★★ no name | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 16th 9月 2019 | |||||
5a 5b | ★★ no name | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 16th 9月 2019 | |||||
5c | ★★ no name | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 16th 9月 2019 | |||||
5b | ★★ Traslazioni parallele | 15m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 16th 9月 2019 | ||||
5b | ★★ Cera L'h | 15m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 16th 9月 2019 | ||||
5a | L'aquila | Sasso del drago | 一般 | 星期四 10th 10月 2019 | |||||
4c | Babi | 17m | Sasso del drago | ★ 好 | 星期四 10th 10月 2019 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Via Del Bosca - with Sebastian Nagel | 25m | Sasso Remenno | 星期四 8th 6月 2023 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Simon Templar - with Sebastian Nagel | 45m | Sasso Remenno | 星期四 8th 6月 2023 | |||||
6a |
★★★ Via delle due Gobbe P1
- with
Sebastian Nagel
1
6a
25m
| 25m | Sasso Remenno | 星期四 8th 6月 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★ King Kong - with Sebastian Nagel | 45m | Sasso Remenno | 星期四 8th 6月 2023 | |||||
5c | ★★ Via del Cavolo - with Sebastian Nagel | 20m | Sasso Remenno | 星期四 8th 6月 2023 | |||||
6b | ★ Fipanza | 10m | Vho | ★ 好 | 星期三 20th 9月 2023 | ||||
Took Dave and I about 4 goes each to do this, both different..6 b feels like a font grade, it was very bouldery. Climbing on road infrastructure, but it was dry
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6b+ | ★★ Cappuccino | 30m | Vho | ★ 好 | 星期三 20th 9月 2023 | ||||
On of the drier routes today ( first pitch) , and unlike the 10m boulder climb, Fipanza we found this one pretty easy
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6b | ★ Nik | 20m | Vho | ★ 好 | 星期三 20th 9月 2023 | ||||
Missed transition from overhung to slab first go. Capped by large roof so dry, but only one bolt with captive ring for an anchor.
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6a ~6a+ | ★ Madame Babette | 20m | Vho | ★ 好 | 星期三 20th 9月 2023 | ||||
Too run out for me chickened out 2 bolts from top.Had to bring in the reinforcement. The slab dyno also seems a bit hard for 6a but may be a height thing. Large wet patch that did require some foot holds in.
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6a | ★ Poldo | 10m | Cranna | ★ 好 | 星期六 23rd 9月 2023 | ||||
Tricky finish if you are short, but good
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6a | ★★★ Pergola | 10m | Cranna | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 23rd 9月 2023 | ||||
Nice route, anchors at full stretch though.
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6b+ |
★★ Passaggio Chiave P1
1
6b+
20
Nice climbing. We came to the crag because its rain sheltered, but it was a Saturday and half of chiavenna seemed to join us, then the sun came out and the temps went up 10 degrees. It was time to leave. | 20m | Cranna | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 23rd 9月 2023 | ||||
6a | ★★ La Capanna del Blondi | 12m | Acquafraggia | ★ 好 | 星期二 26th 9月 2023 | ||||
A v1 mantle start then spaced bolts, generally ok to get to except the one that protects the crux
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6b | ★★ Pomi — 2 attempts | Acquafraggia | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 26th 9月 2023 | |||||
Would have been nicer in the shade, super slippery, quite technical
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7a | ★★ Rufus | Acquafraggia | 星期二 26th 9月 2023 | ||||||
Hadnt learnt my lesson about the sun and baked. Nice from flake up but no idea how to establish. Would make a nice grade 25 project at home.
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6b ~6b |
★★★ Vector (il diedro) P1
- with
Hannes Zelenka
1
6b
| 30m | Sasso del drago | ★★★ 经典 | 星期四 14th 9月 2023 | ||||
6a | ★★ Draghetto - with Hannes Zelenka | 10m | Sasso del drago | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 14th 9月 2023 | ||||
6a | ★★ Gustavo - with Hannes Zelenka | 20m | Sasso del drago | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 14th 9月 2023 | ||||
6a 5c | Dede | 25m | Vho | 一般 | 星期一 17th 4月 2006 | ||||
6a | ★★ Via vai | 25m | Vho | ★ 好 | 星期一 17th 4月 2006 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Diedrone - with Hanna Kallweit | Sirta | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 13th 9月 2020 | |||||
Awesome dihedral, good bolts, great jams and long route.
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6b+ | ★★ Pancia a sorpresa - with Hanna Kallweit | Sirta | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 13th 9月 2020 | |||||
Nice face climb with a pumpy crimpy crux.
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6b+ | ★★ Fessura sinuosa - with Hanna Kallweit | Sirta | ★★ 很好 | 星期三 16th 9月 2020 | |||||
A bit crispy, but great line when all the crisp fell off.
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7 | ★★★ Luna Nascente - with Emil | 340m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期三 28th 8月 2019 | ||||
Beautiful mix of cracks, flakes and smearing on slabs. Rappeled after p7 because of a approaching thunderstorm.
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7- | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini - with Emil | 400m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期五 16th 8月 2019 | ||||
Grandiose alpine climbing with wild lines that crisscross the wall. Not always possible to place gear in the easier slabby sections.
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7 | ★★★ Oceano Irrazionale - with Emil | 400m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期一 26th 8月 2019 | ||||
Absolute fantastic and classic line. P4 (6a) is really hard for the grade, not always easy to protect and physically as well as mentally demanding.
The real crux pitch imho is p5, the long traverse, where you have to put your leg into the horizontal crack traversing to the right. Superb and fun climbing, especially if you can shuffle a BD #4 (and maybe #5). P6 (7) is pretty easy. Short overhanging crack, easily protectable and actually only one hard move. A must do if you are in val di mello. While rappeling via the super hard slab climb (french 8?) a thunderstorm hit us and we continued rappeling in a huge waterfall. The slabby headwall collects all the waters and spits it out onto the lower part of the wall. Not recommended |
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5+ 5c | ★★ L'alba del Nirvana (Alba del Nirvana) - with Emil | 130m | Val di Mello | ★★ 很好 | 星期五 16th 8月 2019 | ||||
Stomaco Peloso + L´Alba del Nirvana (2L) 5a+, 60m (4L) 5c, 135m
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5c | ★★ Spigolo della Paletta upper part - with katl | 120m | Gallivaggio | 星期天 10th 9月 2023 | |||||
5b | ★★ Spigolo della Paletta - with katl | 130m | Gallivaggio | 星期天 10th 9月 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★ via Erica - with katl | 120m | Gallivaggio | 星期一 11th 9月 2023 | |||||
5b | ★★ Spigolo della Paletta | 130m | Gallivaggio | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 18th 10月 2021 | ||||
5c | ★★ Spigolo della Paletta upper part | 120m | Gallivaggio | 星期一 18th 10月 2021 | |||||
6a | ★★ The Hunter | 50m | Gallivaggio | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 18th 10月 2021 | ||||
6a Easy | ★★ Via delle Cipolline | 20m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 24th 8月 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Via del Roby | 20m | Sasso Remenno | 星期四 24th 8月 2023 | |||||
6b | Miotti - Mottarella | 20m | Sasso Remenno | 星期四 24th 8月 2023 | |||||
6b+ | ★★ Via Del Bosca | 25m | Sasso Remenno | ★★★ 经典 | 星期四 24th 8月 2023 | ||||
6B | ★★★ B | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期三 23rd 8月 2023 | |||||
6A | ★★ C | Val di Mello | 星期三 23rd 8月 2023 | ||||||
6A Hard | ★★ E | Val di Mello | 星期三 23rd 8月 2023 | ||||||
5c+ | ★★ Guronsan | 400m, 20 | Val di Zocca | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 14th 7月 2022 | ||||
5c+ ~6a+ | ★★ Carmageddon | 270m, 20 | Val Porcellizzo | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 29th 7月 2023 | ||||
Die Schlusselstelle in die 5. SL ist kurz, gut abgesichert, aber schwer und unbequem. Meiner Meinung am mindesten 6a+. Genugend Friends mitnehmen, wir hatten 0.3-3 mit 0.5-2 gedoppelt.
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6a | ★★ Edera | 10m | Cranna | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 7th 6月 2022 | ||||
6a | ★ Poldo | 10m | Cranna | 星期二 7th 6月 2022 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Pergola | 10m | Cranna | 星期二 7th 6月 2022 | |||||
6b | ★ Scurzon | 15m | Sasso del drago | 星期二 25th 4月 2023 | |||||
6a | ★ W la mamma | 15m | Sasso del drago | 星期二 25th 4月 2023 | |||||
6b |
★★★ Vector (il diedro) P1
1
6b
| 30m | Sasso del drago | 星期四 27th 4月 2023 | |||||
5b 5c+ | ★ Mary Poppins - with Klára Schmidtová | 100m | Val Porcellizzo | ★ 好 | 星期三 7th 7月 2021 | ||||
6- |
Champignon Merveilleux
- with
Klára Schmidtová
1
5+
35m
2
6-
20m
3
5+
25m
4
5+
30m
| 110m, 2 | Val Porcellizzo | 星期五 9th 7月 2021 | |||||
retreated from key spot in second pitch – unprotectable slab with large runout
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5c+ |
★★ Carmageddon
- with
Klára Schmidtová
1
5c+
40m
2
3b
30m
3
4b
40m
4
3b
40m
5
5c+
40m
6
5c+
40m
7
5b
40m
| 270m, 20 | Val Porcellizzo | ★★ 很好 | 星期五 9th 7月 2021 | ||||
Return from fifth pitch - no moral to continue through unprotected (but beautiful) crack. We returned to the top of the fourth pitch, continued 100m more in the right and climbed to the ridge of the Vecchia by some other (route (two pitches through slabs and short chimney, about 5b or 5c)
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6- 5+/6- | ★★★ Via Mauri - with Klára Schmidtová | 400m | Val Porcellizzo | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 10th 7月 2021 | ||||
5c+ | ★★ Guronsan - with Klára Schmidtová | 400m, 20 | Val di Zocca | 星期一 12th 7月 2021 | |||||
Retreated after first pitch (too large runouts in the slab for our fragile moral)
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6 | Meloni-Maspes crack - with Klára Schmidtová | 300m | Val di Zocca | 星期一 12th 7月 2021 | |||||
retreated after first pitch (falling ice and stones)
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6 |
★ Palle Quadre
- with
klára Schmidtová
1
6
20m
2
5
25m
3
4+
25m
| 70m, 5 | Val di Mello | ★ 好 | 星期二 13th 7月 2021 | ||||
retreated after two pitches (thunderstorm)
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5b | ★★ Tunnel Diagonale | 160m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 14th 10月 2023 | ||||
5a | ★★ Stomaco Peloso | 70m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期一 16th 10月 2023 | ||||
5c | ★★ L'alba del Nirvana | 130m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 经典 | 星期一 16th 10月 2023 | ||||
6a | ★★★ Milchzahn | 230m, 10 | Val Porcellizzo | ★★★ 经典 | 星期二 5th 7月 2016 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Il risveglio di Kundalini - with Gönczöl Zsolt | 390m | Val di Mello | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期天 31st 7月 2022 | ||||
Mega classic! Wide variety of climbing styles, crack, slab, piaz, chimney, bouldery moves in the crux. The real crux pich is maybe the one under the big roof, it is long and tricky 5c. The 6a+ is just a few moves.
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7a+ | ★★ Spanna - with Christie | 12m | Sasso Remenno | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 7th 5月 2023 | ||||
Biiig moves, quite morpho, very fun!
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5b | ★★ Spigolo della Paletta | 130m | Gallivaggio | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 27th 10月 2022 |