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Nakatsugawa Boulder
- 难度体系： US
- Aka: 中津川ボルダー
谷歌地图显示的路线
总结
描述
上午日照
A small bouldering area on metamorphic rock in the Nakatsugawa River bed. Best season is Autumn through to Spring. On sunny mornings problems can be slippy if facing into the sun. However conditions rapidly improve once the shade covers the valley from midday onwards.
Classics include the Piranha wall, Zannen, and the steep problems on the Manzoku Boulder. The older problems generally get generous grades, but more recent additions by strong climbers are stiff for the grade. The landings are flat but rocky, so the more pads the better.
Travel time is about 30 minutes west of the Mitsumine bouldering area. There is a toilet at the car park, but this is closed through the winter months.
准入问题
Please be careful with the holds on Piranha as they are fragile.
Clean chalk and tick marks off problems when you are finished.
Take litter home. No fires or smoking.
前往
5-10分钟
Via car: Take National Route 140 from Chichibu past the Mitsumine bouldering area and up to the Takizawa Dam. Towards the top end of the reservoir, turn right, just before a large bridge that crosses the reservoir water, onto prefectural road 210. The turning is signposted Nakatsugawa.
Follow the road for 3 km, passing through five tunnels. At the end of the last long tunnel, the road crosses the river and a small side road on the left leads immediately to the Ōnamebashi parking lot (大滑橋駐車場). Park here then walk downstream for 5 to 10 minutes until you reach the main boulders in the river bed.
住宿
Car camping at the Ōtaki Onsen Michi no Eki (道の駅 大滝温泉).
行为准则 取自Japan
There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!
The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.
http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html
https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0
历史
Developed in the mid-90s, there were fears that this area would be lost due to the construction of the Takizawa Dam, completed 1999-2007. Luckily the main area remains dry for most of the year, expect for periods after heavy rain and high reservoir water levels. However one problem further downstream - the Shiozawa Crack (2 dan) - was lost permanently.
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