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Aquarium wall

  • 难度体系: US
  • 攀登: 12
  • Aka: 水族館の壁

季节分布

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总结

Routes get in the shade around 10:00. Much earlier than the main area. It can also be accessed during high tide without getting wet.

All routes have been bolted with titanium glue-ins.

描述

This wall is a work in progress. There may still be some loose rocks, so belayers should wear a helmet. Please be respectful of the closed projects, meaning do not climb them. If a bolt has red tape on it, that also means do not climb. Either the epoxy may still be drying or it is a closed project. The topos will be updated when new routes go up

All of the routes have been equipped with Eterna Bolts. The Eterna Bolts are made from ​TITANIUM​, which is highly ​RESISTANT to​ ​corrosion, from the salty beach environment of Hedo. The Eterna Bolts are made by Titan Climbing. The bolts, glue and some other accessories have been mainly purchased from ​climbingboltsupplies.com​ based out of Hong Kong.

准入问题

To access the Aquarium Wall, go past the main area, following the chossy cliffline, for about 50 meters. It can be accessed during high tide without getting wet, if you are careful.

前往

Go past the main area, scramble over some rocks and hug the shore/cliff line (high tide) and go around the corner. Only about 25 meters past the main area.

行为准则 取自Cape Hedo

The beach is littered with garbage and the locals are trying to clean it up. Please take part by bringing some extra trash back after your climb. Over time we can make the beach free of garbage.

标签

线路

添加线路 添加路线图 调整排序 批量编辑 难度体系换算
Grade 线路

Start on the left side of the chimney. Stem your way up the chimney past 2 bolts to a ledge on the left. Climb over the chimney and mantle on to the right wall and continue to the anchors above.

The anchors are titanium rams horns made for lowering. If you are setting up a top rope, clip 2 carabiners underneath the rams horns.

Equipped By: Tim Larick, Josh King

首攀: Corina Montgomery

Starts in the back of the cave/chimney. Shimmy your way up the chimney using the face and crack. Pop out of the chimney onto the face above and climb 3 more bolts to the anchor.

Equipped By: Bo Buckley, Johji Aizawa

In the back of the cave/chimney.

首攀: Bo Buckley

Start on the right side of the chimney. Climb past 4 bolts, then mantle up onto the ledge and continue to the anchors above.

Equipped By: Tim Larick, Bo Buckley, Josh King

首攀: Bo Buckley

Start to the right of Free Willy. Maneuver through the low crux, then mantle up onto the ledge and continue to the anchors.

Equipped By: Tim Larick, Bo Buckley, Josh King

首攀: Josh King

Climbs up and right through 4 easy bolts to the overhanging orange rock. Titanium bolts and anchor.

Equipped By: Tim Larick

首攀: Corina Montgomery

This route is on the the 2nd tier. As you approach the Aquarium wall scramble up a boulder on the left (see image) to access the trail to the belay area for the routes on the left side of the 2nd tier.

Climb the line of bolts that is just to the right of Cave Crack. Climb past the anchor for Cave Crack to a stance, then continue straight up about 30 more feet to the anchor.

Equipped By: Tim Larick

This route is on the the 2nd tier. As you approach the Aquarium wall scramble up a boulder on the left (see image) to access the trail to the belay area for the routes on the left side of the 2nd tier.

This route is the right most route from this belay area.

首攀: Tim Larick

This route can be done as 1 pitch, with a 60-meter rope, by climbing Free Willy into Tuna Roll. Clip the anchor of Free Willy with a long draw to prevent rope drag and continue straight up to the right angling crack. Start moving left, into the white rock, a few moves after clipping the 2nd bolt by the crack. Continue up into the scoop grab a quick tuna roll snack and prepare for the finish up and right.

This route is a variation of Hard Coral (5.12d), which continues straight up the crack to the almost blank overhanging face.

Equipped By: Tim Larick

首攀: Tim Larick

This route is on the 2nd tier. It climbs the overhanging, right angling, crack to an almost blank face. It can be done as a single pitch with a 60-meter rope or multi-pitch style.

Equipped By: Tim Larick, Bo Buckley

首攀: Ryo Takeda

This route can be done as 1 pitch, with a 60-meter rope. Climb Case of the Crabbies, clip the anchor and continue up and right into Whale Power. Make sure to use a long sling on the anchor of Case of the Crabbies to prevent rope drag. Can also be done as a multi-pitch. During the FA, humpback whales were breaching about 150 yards offshore.

Equipped By: Jesse & Corina Montgomery, Tim Larick

首攀: Jesse Montgomery

Route starts on a juggy face at the bottom, moves into a somewhat sparse slab, then moves up to the layback face along the right side of the chimney before a final diagonal traverse up and over the chimney to the anchors on the left hand side. The crux is getting past the last bolt on the right side all the way until you get to the anchors. Take care of some loose rocks still lodged into the top of the chimney while you traverse. You have to grab pretty far back into it to let anything loose, but it can be potentially hazardous, especially for those below. Helmets highly recommended for both climber and belayer.

Although one can potentially stem up the chimney the whole way up while traversing to clip each bolt, this was not the intent of the route, brings the grade down quite a bit, and it ruins a lot of the fun. To climb as envisioned, and maintain true layback-lobster form, keep your hands on the right side of the chimey or further right on the face(no stemming until crossing over left towards the end). Feet are free all the way up (i.e. left side of the chimney is on). It can also be climbed as an arete (no left-side feet) for an extra challenge.

Logistics: It has some quirks. The start can be tricky/risky during high tide so its best done at least a few hours before/after high tide. At low tide you can belay directly underneath the route, but at higher tides it is best to prepare a double length sling to wrap around a nearby horn and/or cam for a belay station otherwise your going to get wet/hurt if the climber takes a fall.

It can also be challenging to get your rope down without it getting dunked in the ocean. The best way I've found is clean the anchor with the climber lowering off the left side, then partially downclimbing around the left-hand side of the front slab boulder. After untying, continue pulling from the left side of the boulder with the intent that the rope will land on top of the boulder rather than in the ocean. As the rope gets close to letting loose, make a drastic quick pull away from the wall and it should land either on the boulder or near your feet. You may get a few snags on the boulder, but its a reasonably safe high ball boulder (V0) if you can't get it down.

To the right of Trad Corner. Starts on the right side of the chimney crack system and crosses over it to the left near the top. The start is on the left side of the tide pool under the blank looking squid-head looking face

首攀: Bo Buckley

Better done as a top rope. The gear is not great and the rock quality for gear is pretty bad but the climb itself is good. Will most likely get bolted in the future. Bolted anchor. "

Equipped By: Tim Larick, Bo Buckley

首攀: Bo Buckley

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星期一 22 5月
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