Shōmenheki Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

James Frith Némo Aaron J Brendan Heywood siva-blaize faalavaau Masaki Takizawa Per Christer Lund Mat Horne Katharina Ninive Emi Watanabe

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1. Shōmenheki / 正面壁 27 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. Shōmenheki 27 routes in Sector

Summary:

季节分布

运动攀岩和传统攀登

Lat / Long: 35.169229, 139.088254

描述

The biggest sector of Maku-iwa with lots of climbs and few boulder problems just below it.

准入问题

As of March 2010 there are some access issues with the left-hand band of cliffs from the parking lot. Climbers are asked to climb only on the right hand side (Wonderland/Ali Baba area) until this has been resolved.

取自Maku Iwa

前往

You can walk up from the parking using the obvious path and keep left or follow the road a bit into the valley for a few hundred meters and take a small trail to your right. The cliff can be seen from the road.

行为准则

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

取自Japan

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Green Wind グリーンウィンド	5.10a	运动攀岩
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
2	★★ No.1 Route	5.10a	传统攀登 35m
3	★★ No.1 Route Direct Finish	5.10c	传统攀登 35m
4	★★ Summer Eyes サマーアイズ	5.10a	运动攀岩
5	Monolith モノリス	5.10a	运动攀岩
6	★★ Long Line / ロングライン	5.10d	运动攀岩 3
7	No.2 Route No.2ルート	5.10c	运动攀岩
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
8	★★★ Spiderman One of the most classic and historical routes of Japan. Amazing climbing following a beautiful sloppy edge on a vertical rock. Continuous and sustained climbing from the start to the top out on a nice edge. Really nice exposure.	5.12a	运动攀岩 25m
9	★★ Mini-overhang right dihedral / 小ハング右凹角 Next crack to the left of Emily. Short overhang followed by a nice less-than-vertical hands/thin hands crack. Traverse left and deal with the tree or go straight up past the block. There is a bolt/chain anchor with rap rings above the tree. (5.9 in the Hyakuiwaba guidebook, 5.10a in the latest Rock & Snow topo)	5.10a	传统攀登
10	Emily エミリー Crack is full of plants and dirt, I don't think it gets much (any) traffic	5.9	传统攀登
11	★★ No.3 Route / No3.ルート Thin crack with a short wide section in the middle. Traverse left at the horizontal about a meter below the piton, then follow the corner up past the block and end at a bolt/chain anchor with rap rings up and to the right. (5.9 in the Hyakuiwaba guide book, 5.10a in the latest Rock & Snow topo)	5.9	传统攀登
12	★ Face 88 フェイス88 This route no longer has bolts	5.12a	运动攀岩
13	★★ Asia / アジア	5.10c	运动攀岩 15m
14	★ Baby pinnacle / ベビーピナクル Far right on the same ledge as No. 3 route, Emily, etc. Short, right-leaning fists to hands crack. Bolt/chain anchor with rap ring on the face once you top out the crack.	5.9	传统攀登
15	★ Nigeru Robber / 逃げるロバ	5.9	运动攀岩
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
16	Paper Doll / ペーパードール	5.10a	运动攀岩
17	★★ Pony Tail / ポニーテール	5.9	运动攀岩 9
18	★★ No.7 Route / No.7ルート	5.10b	运动攀岩 20m
19	Rana ラナ	5.10b	传统攀登
20	★ Jimushii / ジムシ一	5.10c	运动攀岩 10m
21	★★ Kazue-chan and Toshio-chan / かずえちゃん・としおちゃん	5.10d	运动攀岩 10m
22	★★ Spaghetti Yo-chan / スパゲッティーよっちゃん	5.12a	运动攀岩
23	★★★ Spider-Girl / スパイダーキッド	5.12a/b	运动攀岩 10m
24	★★ Reflection / リフレクション	5.10d	运动攀岩 15m
25	★ Tomodachi Price / ともだちプライス	5.10a	运动攀岩 4
26	? Shares first 3 bolts with ともだちプライス	5.9	运动攀岩 4
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
27	★★ Kamakura / カマクラ Arete	5.10c/d	运动攀岩 8m, 4

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
5.9		?	运动攀岩 4
	★	Baby pinnacle	传统攀登
		Emily	传统攀登
	★	Nigeru Robber	运动攀岩
	★★	No.3 Route	传统攀登
	★★	Pony Tail	运动攀岩 9
5.10a		Green Wind	运动攀岩
	★★	Mini-overhang right dihedral	传统攀登
		Monolith	运动攀岩
	★★	No.1 Route	传统攀登 35m
		Paper Doll	运动攀岩
	★★	Summer Eyes	运动攀岩
	★	Tomodachi Price	运动攀岩 4
5.10b	★★	No.7 Route	运动攀岩 20m
		Rana	传统攀登
5.10c	★★	Asia	运动攀岩 15m
	★	Jimushii	运动攀岩 10m
	★★	No.1 Route Direct Finish	传统攀登 35m
		No.2 Route	运动攀岩
5.10c/d	★★	Kamakura	运动攀岩 8m, 4
5.10d	★★	Kazue-chan and Toshio-chan	运动攀岩 10m
	★★	Long Line	运动攀岩 3
	★★	Reflection	运动攀岩 15m
5.12a	★	Face 88	运动攀岩
	★★	Spaghetti Yo-chan	运动攀岩
	★★★	Spiderman	运动攀岩 25m
5.12a/b	★★★	Spider-Girl	运动攀岩 10m