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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
montenegroclimbing Chase Aaron Miller kosta Keinkurt Leo Seib Christian Aigner Ajda Kožar Bernii Loewe Miha Popovic
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部分内容经许可发布自: © montenegroclimbing ()
Table of contents
- 1.
Smokovac / Smoki
103 in Crag
- 1.1. Smoki - Smokovac 88 in Crag
- 1.2. Sector above gas station - Smokovac 7 in Cliff
- 1.3. Rock Kula - Smokovac 1 in Cliff
- 1.4. Sektor drOlja - Smokovac 5 in Cliff
- 1.5. Dementia Wall 2 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Smokovac 103 routes in Crag
- Summary:
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总体而言 运动攀岩
Lat / Long: 42.492746, 19.310033
总结
Smokovac offers best opportunities for climbing shorter sport as well as the longer routes with a height of up to 120m, both for its attractiveness and good quality, and for fast and easy approach.
描述
The rocks are of the limestone type, grey and yellowish in colour. Climbing season begins as early as at the end of the winter (February, March) and lasts till the late autumn (November, December), although one can climb throughout the year too, except on the coldest winter days and the hottest summer days. During the approach in the summer months one should pay attention to snakes. Potentials for climbing and equipping the routes are not nearly enough exploited. There are several sectors (blocks).
准入问题
Important: crags in the area of Smokovac are located on private property, so we kindly ask climbers to behave politely and respect private property. Also, the rocks are open for further equipping but if you want to drill something at Smokovac it would be best to contact local climbers-the OCP.
前往
Smokovac suburb is situated at the exit from the Morača Canyon, and it is around 5 kms away from the centre of Podgorica. It can be reached along the main road Podgorica-Kolašin. Check a big petrol station just right after a bridge.
1.1. Smoki - Smokovac 88 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
所有 运动攀岩
Lat / Long: 42.484634, 19.310784
总结
While the majority of the routes can be found here, 27Crags Premium has the most updated topo and grade information, curated by a lot of the local club climbers and first ascensionists.
描述
The largest and most attractive crag in Montenegro, boasting climbing routes up to 35m in height. At the moment there are about 80 routes. It has a width of 250 m. There are abundant opportunities for equipping hard overhanging routes. The crag is characterized by a large number of tufas, in a style that blasts your core and works body-tension to the max.
Best time for climbing is from early spring to late autumn. Owing to its north-western orientation the rock is not warmed up by the sun during the winter months, except its left south-western section (sector A). The rock also seeps a lot more this time of year due to lots of rainy days.
During the summer months the crag is in the shade till 2 p.m. (sectors B&C have shade until 3-4 p.m.) and offers more than enjoyable climbing even when the temperatures in Podgorica reach their maximum.
准入问题
The crag is on private property. The landowner permits climbing on the condition that climbers respect the nature, don't leave any litter, don't start any campfires, and no camping under the walls, and under no circumstances no climbing or bolting routes in the first big cave between sectors D and E.
前往
The crag can be reached along the road Podgorica-Kolašin, 5 kms away from the centre of Podgorica, heading towards Kolašin. At the first bridge over the Morača River, turn right to the narrow asphalt road (easy to miss) where after 100m there is a small pullout for about 5 cars. Once parked, backtrack for 50m up the road where the obvious trail starts up an incline. It takes 10 minutes to get from the parking area to the crag. In the summer bug spray is a must, and the long grasses on the approach get annoying so if your skin is sensitive you might want to wear pants.
住宿
There are multiple hostels just across the river, maybe 15 minutes walk to the parking area, across the bridge. The first hostel is Izvor, that offers rooms as well as camping. Apparently this one has a small kitchen for guests to use.
Autokamp Titograd is your other option, just down the road a little further past the gas station. The family that runs it are super accommodating, wonderful people. Private rooms with one or two beds, AC, and private bathrooms. A common area with a coffee and drink bar and another one with ping pong and a half-working massage chair. Laundry facilities for a few bucks. You even have private access to the river below via a steep driveway, complete with chairs to lounge in by the water. Check out the routes down here too, on this site under the crag Titograd.They allow camping, big camper vans (complete with powered sites) and are friendly to bikers. The only downside of this hostel is no common kitchen for cooking your own food, which really sucks for visiting climbers that need a room to stay in. There are multiple grocery stores a few minutes drive into town though that have a full hot bar of food for cheap.
行为准则
Do not use the bathroom underneath the walls or inside the cave. Do not leave toilet paper. No bolting in or immediately around the cave, per the landowner.
历史
Smokavac has been developed since around 2005-2006. Founding members of the Outdoor Club Podgorica (OCP) Vanja Pejovic, Ivan Lakovic, Milos Pavicevic, Nojan Boskovic and Novica Cupic discovered the awesome potential of this crag so close to the capital city. Upon coming to the wall they saw a few routes with homemade bolts and big runouts. These routes marked with yellow lines were equipped by unknown climbers from Slovakia during the 2005 summer. The club and other local climbers got to work bolting and rebolting, establishing most of the routes in the crag. Other climbers contributing routes include Klemen Becan, Stefan Lieb Lind, Andrej Grmovsek, Valentin Sattek, and Srdjan Lecic.
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1.1.1. Sektor A 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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前往
Furthest sector down the wall. Faces southwest and gets sun the earliest.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ MAK 40
Technical first half followed by quite powerful second one. 首攀: 2010 | {FR} 6c | 25m, 12 | |||||
2 |
★★ Monte Monte Mo
Pumpy route on tufa jugs with a 6b crux at the top. 首攀: Frank Wehner, 2018 | {FR} 7a/a+ | 25m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Izvadi Ruku Iz Dupeta
首攀: 2010 | {FR} 7b | 25m | |||||
4 |
★★ Angelika
Tufas, hard to the top 首攀: Christian Aigner, 2019 | {FR} 7c | 30m | |||||
5 |
★★★ Precioza
An endurance test-piece with good kneebars. 定线/开线: Toni Obojes 首攀: vojkan todorovic, 2008 | {FR} 7c+/8a | 31m | |||||
6 |
★★ Big Friendly Giant
Splits right off of Precioza. 首攀: Stephan Meng, 2023 | {FR} 8a | 30m | |||||
7 |
★★ Tiha Dolina
Maybe the longest route at Smoki..exposed and awesome. Even though the hardest move is down low, a few technical cruxes await you on small crimps...plus or minus some stemming. The top can become overgrown and a little dirty without traffic but you are on big holds. You need a 70m for this route and a few long draws for drag. | {FR} 6b | 35m | |||||
8 |
Project
According to Josh Cook this route might be unfinished. There are two bolts that look like an anchor halfway up, about 7a to get there. After that it is quite hard and dirty with loose rock. Needs cleaning. 定线/开线: 2018 | |||||||
9 |
★★ Raum Der Stille
首攀: Valentin Sattek, 2018 | {FR} 7c | 28m | |||||
10 |
★★★ Flight of the Legless Lizard
The mega-line up the left side of the cave. 首攀: Stephen Meng, 2023 | {FR} 8a+ | 22m | |||||
11 |
★★ Vaskršnji / Easter
A few different ways to do this one. Direct is about 6b+, but going left is easier at maybe 6b. 首攀: 2012 | {FR} 6b/b+ | 9m | |||||
12 |
★ Na Putu Za Emaus
首攀: 2012 | {FR} 6c | 12m | |||||
13 |
★★ Zvijuk
首攀: 2010 | {FR} 6a | 12m, 5 | |||||
14 |
★★ Zub
Might be soft | {FR} 6a | 10m, 4 | |||||
15 |
★★ 3Z
Goes up the left side of the ramp, on the right side of the small cave. Finishes on the same anchors as Andro. | {FR} 4b | 12m, 5 | |||||
16 |
★★ Andro
Not the easiest warmup. A few committing moves on a small overhang. | {FR} 6a+ | 10m, 3 |
1.1.2. Sektor B 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★★ Grüner Propeller
首攀: Frank Wehner, 2018 | {FR} 8a+ | 28m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Small, Ugly, and Lots of Problems
首攀: Stefan Lieb Lind, 2013 | {FR} 7b+ | 23m | |||||
3 |
★★ Suncokret / Sunflower
Two hard cruxes with a good rest 定线/开线: Joshua Cook, 2019 首攀: Dimitry Panov, 2022 | {FR} 8b+ | 30m | |||||
4 |
★★ Streetwork
This routes belongs to the streets! 定线/开线: Valentin Sattek 首攀: Dimitry Panov, 2019 | {FR} 8b | 22m | |||||
5 |
★★★ Američki / American
Word has it ol' Jeremiah found oil underneath this line, unbeknownst to the townsfolk. Next thing ya knew the troops were swiftly descending in Blackhawks, Creedence Clearwater Revival blaring from the loudspeakers. Each time the bolting hammer struck the limestone, bald eagles screeched in the distance. Uncle Sam just had to get his slice of pie. What's the metric system again? 50 feet or so. 首攀: Jeremiah Watt | {FR} 7b+ | 15m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Vib
According to 27Crags this is the matching topo for Vib. FA unknown. | {FR} 7b | 30m | |||||
7 |
★ I Kill You Stefan
Break out the chimney tactics... 首攀: Stefan Lieb Lind, 2015 | {FR} 6c+ | 15m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Nevjerovatni Dinosaurusi / Incredible Dinosaurs
Great line by KB 首攀: Klemen Becan, 2014 | {FR} 8b+ | 30m | |||||
9 |
Rotor and Wings
The first tufa is supposedly loose...use caution. 首攀: Klemen Becan, 2014 | {FR} 8b | 30m | |||||
10 |
★★★ Einstunden Hotel
A perfect line with tufas in the last 10 meters. 首攀: Helmut Gargitter, 2011 | {FR} 7b+ | 32m | |||||
11 |
★★ Duvelije
Face climbing with a good two-hands rest on a ledge before the final 10 meters of tufa-bashing. 首攀: Matti Buyle, 2014 | {FR} 7b+ | 30m |
1.1.3. Sektor C 24 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Gdje ces na Rusiju
首攀: Srdjan Lecic, 2017 | {FR} 7c+ | 30m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Nebeske Note
首攀: Srdjan Lecic, 2019 | {FR} 7c+ | 28m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Lastovka
首攀: Andrej Grmovsek, 2011 | {FR} 7a+ | ||||||
4 |
Lastovka Extension
首攀: Andrej Grmovsek, 2011 | {FR} 7c/c+ | ||||||
5 | ★★ Dose of Dopamine | {FR} 7b+ | 18m | |||||
6 |
Dunning-Kruger Effect
定线/开线: Srdjan Lecic, 2021 首攀: Dimitry Panov, 2022 | {FR} 7c+/8a | 30m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 | Zajac | {FR} 7c+/8a | 30m | |||||
8 | ★★ Mark It Eight, Dude | {FR} 7a+ | 18m | |||||
9 |
Mark It Eight, Dude Extension
首攀: Frank Wehner, 2018 | {FR} 7b+ | 28m | |||||
10 | ★★★ Letnje kiše | {FR} 6b+ | 15m | |||||
11 |
★★★ Letnje kiše Extension
Endurance climbing on overhanging tufas. Many holds have broken, including the big tufa, since the FA. 首攀: Stefan Lieb Lind, 2017 | {FR} 7b+ | 27m | |||||
12 |
Svetog Save
首攀: Novica Cupic, 2014 | {FR} 6c+ | 15m | |||||
13 | Osinjak, 15 m | {FR} 6b+ | 15m | |||||
14 |
★ V.I.P.
A tricky boulder problem is the price of admission. | {FR} 6b+ | 15m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Ћирилица / Ćirilica
A nice one with a tricky move at the last bolt. Bouldery and fun. | {FR} 6b+ | 14m | |||||
16 | ★ Proljeće | {FR} 6c+ | 15m | |||||
17 |
★★ Srce i ljubav
Looks like crap from the ground but climbs great. With big moves on good holds, this route is unique for the area. | {FR} 7a | 15m | |||||
18 | ★★ American women | {FR} 6c | 15m | |||||
19 | ★★ The Visit of Robin and Vincent | {FR} 6c | 27m | |||||
20 |
★★★ Surge of Energy
Apparently the crux hold broke, so it's a bit harder now. Originally graded 7c. 首攀: Martin Grumpold, 2022 | {FR} 7c+ | 24m | |||||
21 |
★ Back To The Beauty
首攀: Stefan Lieb Lind, 2015 | {FR} 7a | 27m | |||||
22 |
Bodljikavo Prase
首攀: Novica Cupic, 2015 | {FR} 6c | 14m | |||||
23 |
Tetkica
Awkward and hard now that the crux hold is missing. 首攀: Marko Resentar, 2015 | {FR} 6a+ | 10m | |||||
24 |
★★ Bubica
首攀: Bojan Boskovic, 2015 | {FR} 5 | 10m |
1.1.4. Sektor D 26 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Coriax
首攀: Ethienne File, 2021 | {FR} 7a+ | ||||||
2 |
Dve Banane
首攀: Ethienne Fille, 2021 | {FR} 7b | 27m | |||||
3 |
★★ Reinoso Pareiso
Same start as Puzavac, then left. 首攀: Florent Leydet, 2021 | {FR} 6c+ | 15m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
★★ Puzavac
Dirty and chossy | {FR} 6a | 14m | |||||
5 | ★★ Ogi i Matija | {FR} 5c | 15m | |||||
6 | ★★★ Čista Petica | {FR} 7a | 15m | |||||
7 | ★★ Nije Šija Nego Vrat | {FR} 7a | 20m | |||||
8 | ★★ Pravoslavni | {FR} 6c+ | 21m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Punoglavac
A classic tufa line. Open up the can of whoop-ass! | {FR} 6c | 15m | |||||
10 | ★★★ Vegan | {FR} 6b | 15m | |||||
11 |
★★★ Otpisani
Enduro-blast! | {FR} 7b+ | 25m | |||||
12 | ★ Hvala | {FR} 6c+ | 30m | |||||
13 |
★★ Sin City
A fun one with creative rest stances. | {FR} 6b | 14m | |||||
14 |
★★ Sin City ext.
Pull through some hard moves after the first anchor, traverse left then back right to a committing finish on an arête with small feet. | {FR} 7a | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Molto bella | {FR} 6b+ | 15m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Over the Line
Keep the tension! | {FR} 7a+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
17 | ★★ Shin-Ei | {FR} 6c | 15m, 6 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Српски / Srpski | {FR} 6b+ | 15m | |||||
19 |
Falka S.
Shares start with Česki, then left. | {FR} 7c+ | 18m | |||||
20 |
Česki
Shares start with Falka S., then right. | {FR} 8a+ | 25m | |||||
21 |
★ Bi Mu Ga Rabota
Best warmup of this sector. | {FR} 5c+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
22 |
★★ Jesen
Heartbreaker at the chains! | {FR} 6b | 15m, 6 | |||||
23 |
★★ Ringispil
Pumpy, with a hard anchor clip. | {FR} 6a+ | 15m, 6 | |||||
24 | ★★★ Smokvica | {FR} 7b | 24m, 11 | |||||
25 | Bodeča Neža | {FR} 7a | 20m | |||||
26 |
★ White Line
首攀: Ethienne Fille, 2022 | {FR} 6b+ |
1.1.5. Sektor E 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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描述
First sector you come to. Though a little chossier than the rest of the cliff, there are a few gems here to warm up on like Good Luck Ivan.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | ★★ Košto | {FR} 4a | 12m | |||||
2 |
★★ Aj sa srećom
Looks easier than it actually is | {FR} 5b | 20m | |||||
3 |
★★ Leptir
Lots of hollow flakes on this one | {FR} 6a | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Good Luck Ivan
Best route of this sector. A bit crumbly in parts with a broken rock section containing the thin crux. | {FR} 6a+ | 20m | |||||
5 |
★★ Nemam pojma
good kid's route | {FR} 4b | 8m | |||||
6 | Poštena Didi | {FR} 6a+ | 18m | |||||
7 | Vudu vrač | {FR} 6c+ | 28m | |||||
8 | ★★ Prijatelji | {FR} 6b | 15m | |||||
9 | Luis | {FR} 6b | ||||||
10 | Lacc Mitx Eccen | 19m | ||||||
11 | Kornjača grill | 5+ | 18m |
1.2. Sector above gas station - Smokovac 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
所有 运动攀岩
Lat / Long: 42.485351, 19.304967
描述
One of the numerous smaller blocks is located on the opposite side of the canyon from the large sector called Smoki. Members of the OCP have started equipping the routes on this block because its south-eastern orientation also provides climbing during the winter months, as well as for the opportunity of equipping easier routes. The height of the crag is 18 - 20 m. The approach is the same, only one should continue across the bridge, in the direction of petrol station where it is possible to leave cars, cross the main road, and then walk for 3 to 4 minutes to below the crag.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | Ticijana | 7 | 19m | |||||
2 | ★ Kornjaca | 4+ | 15m | |||||
3 | Žuk plavunjec | 7 | 19m | |||||
4 |
Cikota
警示 固定装置: All routes unbolted (04.03.21), two new routes right to the huge cave | 5+ | 19m | |||||
5 | ★ 011 | 7- | 19m | |||||
6 | Znoj | 5 | 19m | |||||
7 | Samo za taj osjecaj | 5+ | 17m |
1.3. Rock Kula - Smokovac 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
所有 运动攀岩
描述
The highest crag in the area of Smokovac. Its height varies from 40 to 120 metres, and it has a width of several hundred meters. There is an exceptional potential for climbing first ascents. The crag is located about 1 km from Izvor Hotel and petrol station further into the canyon. It takes no more than 5 minutes to reach the base of the crag after turning from the main road. The highest section of the crag is visibly divided in its lower part by the large ledge at the beginning of which there is an old stone construction - a watchtower, and the rock was named after it.The approach(descent) to below the most attractive section of the rock is possible along the ledge. There is only one ascended and equipped route.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Ivanja
首攀: Helli Gargitter, Toni Obojes & Pauli Trendwalker i Michael Thaler. | 7+ | 120m |
1.4. Sektor drOlja - Smokovac 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
传统攀登 和 Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 42.487480, 19.308302
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | Bandži | 5 | 35m | |||||
2 | Rolingstones | 4+ | 35m | |||||
3 | Vještica | 5+ | 17m | |||||
4 | Krvava Meri | 6- | 33m | |||||
5 | drOlja | 5 | 45m |
1.5. Dementia Wall 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
所有 运动攀岩
Lat / Long: 42.499899, 19.310457
描述
An east-facing wall with a few routes.
前往
GPS Parking: 42°29'42.9"N 19°18'36.5"E Park in the gravel. Walk down the road (north) for 350 m. until you find a fixed rope on your left. Use the rope on the steep grassy slope and follow a trail for about 10-15 min. until you arrive at Dementia Wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 | ★★ Mojito Lovers | {FR} 7a | ||||
2 |
★★ Wasted
Short and sharp. | {FR} 6c |