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Paynes Ford
Paynes Ford is predominantly single-pitch sport climbs on limestone. Angles vary from slippery slabs to massive roofs. Best online guide is http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson/golden-bay/paynes-ford |
关闭的 North End
All climbs in this area have been CLOSED and bolts removed at the instigation of the Dept of Conservation for environmental reasons |
关闭的 North End |
10
Thelma
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
10
Louise
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
22
★ Big Sharks At Night
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
25
Gangrene
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★★ Terror, Illness and Rebellion
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
14
Zen Navigation
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
19
★ Herbal Infusion
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★ Checkmate
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
23
★★ The Darling Buds Of May
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof |
16
★ Blobbet
The line of bolts heading up from the far left hand end of the walking track. Deceptive. |
17
★ Goodbye Cream-Poofters
Just to the right of 'Blobbet'. High first bolt with an easy but committing move to reach it. |
25
★ Why Would You Wave to a One-Armed Man Riding a Bike?
Up balancey arête on very small edges, then tricky moves to top. |
16
★ Re-election Blues
In the scoop to the right of the previous two routes. Try and avoid getting lured onto the harder route here (details not known). Starts up the scoop before heading left? |
15
★ Golden Years
Shares a start with 'Re-election Blues', but continue up the scoop to chain. |
14
★ Midwife Crisis
On a short wall next to 'Calling All Hobbits'. Follow the swarm of bolts to the top, but check the condition of the mallion before committing to lower off it. Consider abseiling. |
12
★ Calling All Hobbits
1 bolt up the right arete to chain. |
18
★★ Elvis Lives In Takaka
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
19
★ Blockbuster
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
19
★ Bite My Chunk
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★ The Fearless Vampire Killers
Identifiable by the stake hanging next to the first bolt, to the left of the obvious roof ('Rawhide'). Up and over the small roof, there's an optional thread as well. |
15
★ Gorgonzola Goes
Start just right of 'The Fearless Vampire Killers' and follow the bolts to the top of the cliff. Optional threads. |
15
★ Cheddarmaster's
Shares a start with 'Gorgonzola Goes', but heads a bit further right. |
19
★ Hula Yula
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
24
★★ Spotty Brit
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★★ Tongue In Groove
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
22
★ Sweet Dreams
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
Wasp Factor
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★ Hunting Tartan
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★★ Something Precious
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
V4
★ Easiest Out
Climb the easiest way to the lip of the cave from the big chalked ledge at the back. |
V8
★★ Straight out
Climb straight out to the lip of the cave via big moves on positive holds. Start on the block/ledge at the back of the cave. |
22
★★★ Rawhide
Stick-clip the hanger out on the lip. Once you reach this, head up and over the pyramid of rock (2FH). There are 2 more FH on the final slab before the chains. Rope drag when lowering is pretty bad: consider abseiling. |
23
★★ Rumplestiltskin
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
24
★★ Golden Bay Connection
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
Serac Attack
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Further climbs to the right are listed under Rata Wall.
Further climbs to the right are listed under Rata Wall. |
Rata Wall / Rat Trap Wall
The Rata Wall starts to the right of the Rawhide roof. The Rat Trap Wall is the next wall further around the corner. |
Rata Wall / Rat Trap Wall |
Rata Wall |
22
Granulated Chicken Booster
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★ Humpty Dumpty
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★★ All The Kings Horses
2nd pitch to Humpty Dumpty, can be done as 1 pitch. |
22
★ Woop, Woop Pull Up
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★★ Last Call For Flight 911
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★★ Bang Your Head
Pitch 2 of Last Call for Flight 911. |
22
Bob and Betty go Mating
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
The Rat Trap Wall
Continue around the corner and 5m to a ledge. |
21
★ Tales By Firelight
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★★ Rat up a Drainpipe
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★★ Bilbos Great Adventure
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★ No Rest For The Wicked
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
23
★ The Immaculate Deception
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Stone Symposium Wall
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Stone Symposium Wall |
25
★ 7 Days a Week
Start on Lh- end of the ledge, climb the wall through roof on the Rh- side. |
19
★★ Spitfire
Climb up to the ledge, where Seafire starts. |
21
★★ Seafire
Extension to Spitfire, starting from the ledge. |
22
★★ Jericho
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★★★ Temples Of Stone
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★★ Jimmy The Torn Piece of Paper
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★★ Space Invader
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
26
★ Sunday Picnic
Start between Space Invader and R for Ranger. Jugs eventually give way to an extremely blank bulge. The grade is for climbing the line direct; moving right at the crux gets you 24 points. |
21
★★★ R for Ranger, D for Danger
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
21
★★ Stone Symposium
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★★ Stroking The Tiger
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★ Wazzo Jugs
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★ Autumn Leaf
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
19
★★ Sacred Forest
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
16
Clutter and Vine
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
15
Rata Tui
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
20
★★ Bang Your Head
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
18
★ The Mot Boys' one
Starts at WJ belay and trends left. |
The Tenuite Wall
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
The Tenuite Wall |
21
★ Fluffy Duck
Far left route |
20
★★ Hi I'm Doctor Terrific
On upper Tenuite. |
21
★★ Headplant
On upper Tenuite. |
20
★★ Walk the line
On upper Tenuite. Takes the yellow streak close to, but independent of Loose Unit. |
20
★★ Loose Unit
On upper Tenuite. Mostly on big holds, the hard part might be finding them. The bolt line 3m left of 'Go With the Flow'. |
22
★★ Go With the Flow
On upper Tenuite. Start below the obvious tufa/flowstone formations, and follow the bolts up. |
19
★ Fat Cats
On upper Tenuite. |
16
★ A Shout Towards Noon
On upper Tenuite. Anchor the belayer to the two low FH at the right end of the wall, then head up past the bolts slightly right of this. |
16
★ Badgers Mount
On upper Tenuite. Access by climbing the first bolt of 'A Shout Towards Noon' then heading across the next ledge. |
19
★ Bent Badgers
On upper Tenuite. Access by climbing the first bolt of 'A Shout Towards Noon' then heading across the next ledge. |
24
That's Not My Name
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
22
★ Lapsed Catholics
Just around the corner from 'Romancing The Stone' and 'Grey Warbler'. |
23
Slap And Tickle
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
15
★ Romancing The Stone
High first bolt, then up to chains. 3m left of 'Grey Warbler'. On Lower Tenuite |
14
Grey Warbler
The obvious slab with two bolts, just left of a wide diagonal crack/groove. On Lower Tenuite |
25
★ Persistence Of Time
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
27
Stallywag
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
16
★★★ Chicken Hawk
Yellowish crack left of the small roof. Use the roof for an added challenge. On Lower Tenuite |
17
Yellow Hammer
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Pantechicon Wall
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Pantechicon Wall |
27
★★★ Pousse Ton Froc
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
22
★ Happy Motoring
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
23
Electric Sunroof
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Carnage Wall
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
Carnage Wall |
18
★ Carnage at the Crossroads
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |
27
★ There Is No Spoon
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work. |