攀登 in The Bluff as Red point, Ground up red point 或 Greenpoint 如同运动攀岩 by John Pitcairn

Made a hash of the pull onto the slab. Some kind of weird heel scum.

Waiting for 2 parties in the queue ahead of us on Guardians. Tricky start.

I think it's 19.

After a morning spent accessing and removing the loose block on Sex Panther.

Warmup. Meh.

Overlooked by all the punters on the squeeze routes.

Went easily now the gritty feet have cleaned up. Going right to the sloper-undercling thing is a bit harder, but still no more than 18 and not stiff.

Warmdown 2. Use the right arete at the low crux and it's on the soft side of 17.

Warmdown 1. Would probably be a decent slab, but pretty dirty. Anyone want to scrub it properly?

First outdoor visit for Chris, so why not make it a multipitch? Did P1-2 on gear with one bolt at crux. Shoes still not as sensitive as I'd like for that. Loose rock at top of P2 is a bit worrying. Had thought we might be able to get across to top pitch of DHMK to finish, but that looked sketchy and hard. Hot hot hot, rapped off.

The low end of 19. Always a slight sense of disappointment when the monkey jugs disappear for the crux.

Couldn't find my rock shoes, climbed in chunky approach shoes, certainly upped the pucker factor on the moss. Gear a bit sparse at top. I never need to do this again.

Unfinished business. Was expecting a fight, but cruised it. Really good.

Cleaning the TR anchor. Cams in pockets.

Went up in the evening to see if there would be a link pitch on gear into The Sufferer And The Witness, allowing a full gear route to the very top of the bluff. There would be, but it would be short chossy and pretty average, probably need a hand rope, and cleaning it would rain crap on everything below. Effort best spent elsewhere. Linked P1-2, forgot Gareth's rope is now 56m and had to get down in 2 abseils.

Setting up top rope. Actually this is pretty good for a NZ 13. There's a crux and everything.

And removing it.

Not bad. Don't know why I found the start so hard last attempt.

Goes on gear, with a couple of runouts. Probably could have hunted around and found more.

Better than average but perhaps not worth a star.

A quick repeat after some discussion whether the grade is soft. If you stick to the line of bolts and don't divert left into Sundowning or reach out to the jugs 1m right of the crux higher up, there may be one or two moves at 21-22 there. That really makes it an eliminate...

Wind down part 2: two pink tricams, red and yellow totem basics, thread, bomber #1 C4.

Wind down part 1: all five tricams and a red totem basic. Much more fun on gear. Then dropped the rope and had to scramble off the back in shame.

A 2m sling might help manage the rope drag induced by the shared bolting at the top.