攀登 in Central Buttress

Back for another attempt. P1 quite nervy with sparse gear, then we headed straight up into the hand crack linkup as one 55m pitch. Very nice hand crack at about grade 16, considerable rope drag by the end. At the terrace we contemplated continuing up the El Nino arete, but it was becoming very blowy and route finding a little uncertain, decided not to have an epic with the rope pull from the top. Got one rope stuck on the rap from the terrace anyway, luckily our combined bodyweight freed it before having to reascend on the other. Don't thread your rope though the old maillons.

Spotty weather. Got as far as the top of the bolts on P2 before it began to rain again. Escaped to the El Nino P1 bolted anchor about 5m left, brought Grant up and waited for Dave on El Nino, then we bailed.