条目 in Cattlestop Crag

Accessible roadside crag with many short sport climbs, along with trad climbs. Wide variety of grades to suit beginners as well. Sectors and climbs arranged by proximity from carpark i.e. right to left

Start to the left of the plaque, then climb left across the slab and up the corner. Scarce protection.

Right of the cave - overhang with good holds.

Bolted line in the right side of the roof. Bring a boulder mat, 0.5/0.75 cams, small nuts, and pre-clip your draws.

Rightwards through the roof.

Start on a large block on the left side of the roof.

Starts just left of the cave, and finishes up over a bulge.

Start in gully just left of DP, then traverse right and up next to yellow lichen.

Slightly overhanging corner.

Left of a rounded arete.

Climb up the corner to bolt 2 of Rogue Rat.

Fingery wall, avoid using the arete.

Steep crack starting from a ledge.

Clip first bolt of SJ, step right then up past 2 bolts

Optional nut placement before 1st bolt. Otherwise, strenuous and technical climbing to second bolt where it eases off.

Just right of Fowl Play, starting from ledge and tending rightwards.

1 metre right of Bagatelle, going past a flake in the middle of the wall.

Trad line 1 metre left of Fowl Play

This fetching shallow crack makes for absorbing climbing and the fiddly pro keeps you on your toes.

Start from the ledge, or from a harder direct start. Shared first bolt with Nocuous.

Follow the arete. Shared first bolt with Thin Hedgehog.

Left of Nocuous, up the overhanging brown wall.

From the cattlestop, go down the steps and you will find the first climbs on your right side under the overhang.

The first climb on the face just right of Please Stop. Veer leftwards past the bolts but stay out of the crack.

A slight thud is a variant on the A Dull Thump. Climb to the second bolt on A Dull Thump, then tend right up the arete. Keep on the left side of the arete. Maybe some loose blocks (DOC).

Crack left of 'A dull Thump'

Name changes depending on guide book. Bulbous and bulgy entertainment 3m left of the vegetated corner.

Corner between please stop and please go.

A cheeky diagonal line which cuts across the middle of the face veering left.

At the left end of the wall is a corner weakness that looks deceptively easy.

20m left of Nuggets

Very interesting wall, nice rock, facing North, North West, very sunny. Best Cattlestop climbs

Short but interesting climb with bouldering type moves.

This boulder is in between the Solar Wall and Merlin Wall (right hand side on the topo picture)

Avoid using the crack and climb the face directly past the bolts to the juggy finish.

Nice face climbing on small holds.

Awkward start turns into nice face climbing.

Steep curving corner. Start as for FFF but follow the crack and ledge rightward. Steeply up the crack. Before exiting the crack, step left and climb the wall to the DBB or continue to the double chain anchors at the top of the crag. Affected by quake in mid section but seems OK. Good pro - Eats big gear (C4 size 1 to 3).

A good route between AOBTD and Lizard. Follow the line of bolts, slightly rightwards to the 5th bolt. then up to the DBB

An easy wall suitable for beginners

Nice beginner cliff with a short walk in and superb views.

Really just a continuation of the Surgical Strike Wall

Could be mixed as only has two bolts near the start of the climb. Pretty average rock, on good hold for starting climb pulled off on 25/9/2018. Finish by exiting on to grassy ledge! or moving left to finish at Violet Crumble's anchor.

Start under the first bolt, pull up onto the face, then climb up underneath the small roof. Pull over the roof and climb straight up to the anchor.

Crimp your way up the face before moving over the bulge. Make sure your belayer is alert before moving up to clip the 3rd bolt. To protect the top and reduce the chance of a ground fall, you could take some small nuts to protect the final moves of climb.

Corner left of overlap. Finish directly up over steep ground on good holds or you can move right and finish as for 'Passage To India'(as done originally)

Nice juggy climbing to a delicately pumpy finish.

Step in from the right, or use the harder direct start (about 19) to the first bolt. Then climb the corner on big holds, but with a couple of reachy moves. Exit left to the "Quick & Dirty" top out. Originally listed as 20, but seems to be getting steadily downgraded

Boulder up the steep black wall below the main corner, or use the easy start to the right. Rest on the ledge, then commit yourself to the steepening corner with loose holds, followed by the climactic loose juggy overhang. Exit left. Originally a trad route, but now you can clip bolts on the neighbouring routes.

Start on pointy block and do hard moves through corner to easier climbing up arete.

Hard start up hanging arete feature to some sustained climbing to break. Anchor just above lip.