线路 如同阿式攀登 in North America

West face couloir.

Grade: AD 5.7 (III)

A traverse of all three peaks of Triple peak. Start at the foot of the East Tower. 3 pitches of slabs and vertical bushwacking bring you to the base of a clean slabby face. The FAists went over this, while we took an exposed 5.9 traverse around the left (south) side, starting with a dihedral behind a big tree. The final pitch of the East tower follows a gearless arete. From here scramble to the top.

Exposed scrambling and one steep rappel off a root leads to snow, and eventually to the South East Ridge up the Main Tower. Scramble or climb a few pitches (two pitons protect the low fifth crux). Descend the North Ridge route with two rappels.

Traverse on snow to the col between the Main and North Tower. Follow the East Ridge route up the North Tower, which involves either vertical bushwacking or adventuring onto some handcracks out right, half way up the tower. Scrambling leads to the North Tower summit.

Follow the scramblers ridge to descend to the lake, eventually passing the right (north) side of the main gendarme on a treed ledge. Stay high at the end of the ledge to gain the backside of the gendarme. One more rappel leads to some easy snow slopes and slabs down to the lake.

Standard route up the middle peak of Triple Peak. While graded 4th class in Island Alpine, we were happy to have a rope. p1: low fifth blocky terrain from the snow to a grassy ledge, and a slung boulder. p2: up a short corner groove, then a short hand crack to a slung boulder. p3: scramble underneath a giant chockstone, then climb up and behind it. From here, scramble to the summit.

It climbs a magnificent island feature in a remote and lightly traveled zone.

"Standard route"

A great, long alpine climb up the West Lion. Considered a `top 50' route in the Vancouver Climbing guidebook. After crossing the loose scree below the North face, go up and around the toe of the NorthEast Buttress. Look for some sawed off branches just above a patch of trees to start the route.

We did it in 6 pitches with a 70m rope: p1: Start up a short, steep wall, then pass a tree with some old slings on it. Continue upwards over slabby terrain, eventually aiming for a short, steep handcrack. Belay above this on a tree with some old slings.

p2: From here, it was possible to climb all the way until the big talus ledge.

Scramble up from the top left corner of the ledge, and rope up below the next steep bit of rock.

p3: A fun, long pitch over easy terrain. Keep staying on the ridge as it narrows,

p4: As the ridge starts to steepen, climb up it for another 10 meters until a path leftwards through the bushes appears. Climb through bush for a rope length.

p5: Leave the bushes and climb an exposed ridge line, through a few chimneys with a lot of exposure. Belay at a large tree at the top of the ridge.

p6: Mostly scrambling. From the big tree, follow a trail to the summit cairn.

As the name suggests, the northern ridge of Tricouni Peak. Can be accessed from Roe Creek FSR, crossing the creek and bush bashing straight up the steep hill to cross the top of the glacier to get to the base of the upper art of the ridge. Second option giving full value roughly follows the creek into the large basin between Tricouni and Cypress. From here, work your way around the foot of the ridge and scramble up the E side to gain the ridge where possible. Lots of loose gravel in the basin. The descent can be made via the south ridge, or by traversing the ridge to Cypress Peak and down the trail to the head of Roe Ck FSR. Roe Ck FSR is badly washed out, adding about 5km to the walk if returning via Cypress Peak.

Part of the Nesakwatch Enchainment. A couple pitches lead from the col between South Spire and Mt. Rexford to the West Ridge. Route:

Climbs to the actual summit and not the false summit About 200m of bushwhacking / hiking / scrambling is required to get to the summit from the final bolted pitch. All anchors up to pitch 14 are bolted. If rappelling, 2 60m ropes are required.

Planet Mountain Article

P1: Climb 30-40m over left leaning flakes to a promoniant horn to belay, Just below where the Dihedral becomes more pronounced.

P2: Follow the second overlap of the steepening dihedral for 40m to a flake belay.

P3: the crux pitch, Continue up the dihedral for 25m, stem left and pull a cruxy move onto a sandy ramp, climb 5m up to an alcove belay

P4: Mantle to the second big ledge then climp up and right over a block to gain a solid ledge. climb down and right to gain surfs up ledge. belay at the far end.

P5:Follow the obvious face crack off the ledge, pull over an awkward block and belay at 30m

P6: climb 5.8 jams to a pedistal belay at 30m

P7: follow 20m of 5.7 cracks to gain a boulder on the ridge crest, belay here.

scramble the ridge crest to the summit then descent off the Kraus-McCarthy Rap Route

Follow the snow up the col (Bugaboo-Cressent) to it's highest point. Climb up a left-facing slab (in the left corner is the best rock) while not letting yourself get tempted by the many cracks heading left from the slab.

There are three bolted anchors on this route although most parties either climb up (left) too early. Simul-climbing or soloing this is common to get to NE ridge of Bugaboo.

Descent: Walk along the ridge to the McTech descent route. The first anchor is on a steeper wall (facing S-O) above the main dihedral corner of the area. It might be hard to spot. Rappel with either a 70m rope or double 60m.

Starts 10m left of Mctech Aerete. P1 5.10a Up left facing corner, and wide cracks up onto face. Belay at horizontal crack with ledge P2 5.10a Up wide face cracks to bolted anchor P3 5.8 Up and left on thin gear then head up right onto slab into the back of the amphitheatre. Bolted anchor. P4 5.8traverse left in flaky cracks, up. left around corner into wide crack and up this to belay on pedestal. P5 5.9 directly up crack, up steep crack above (ignore bolts on left) up offwidth crack then easier climbing to bolted anchor. P6 5.7 as per last pitch of McTech Aerete

This climb sees the most traffic out of all moderate climbs in the area. With a relatively short approach, bolted anchors, and a bolted rap line, this is one of the least committing climbs in the bugs.

Approach: From Appleby camp, head up the north moraine (behind the water tap) and navigate left of the first lake, up and around the right of the second lake. The climb you're looking for is in the obvious dihedral on the arete of the crescent spire.

1. 5.9 35m - Climb dihedrals and flakes to a slung horn below the dihedral. Either belay from there or climb to the base of the finger crack heading up the left side of the dihedral (gear anchor).

2. 5.10- 35m - follow the finger crack to a platform. Keep going up in a short dihedral to find the bolted anchor.

3. 5.4 15m - Head up and right through broken terrain to find a short (4-5m) 5.4 crack. Alternatively, if comfortable on the terrain, you can solo around the big boulder on the right to avoid the 5.4 (4th class).

4. 5.9 35m - Most people consider this pitch to be the crux of the climb. Follow two parallel hand/fist cracks to a first small overhang. Hands and fists crack brings you to a second overhang. A platform offers you a well-deserved rest for the feet. Keep going up using blocks in a larger crack and a finger crack on the right. From the large ledge, either build a gear anchor below the next pitch or walk left to a bolted anchor (some parties may be using it on the descent).

5. 5.8 35m - Climb the crack system directly above the last pitch. (If using the left anchor, consider extending it to belay more easily. Bolted anchor.

6. 5.7 30m - Often skipped since the previous anchor leads to the rappel route. Scramble easily to the ridge, making a few low fifth moves.

Descent: Either walk east to find the descent gully between the crescent spire and crescent towers or rappel the McTech rappel line.

McTech rappel line: From the anchor of pitch 5, make 6 single rope rappels to the ground or 4 double rope rappels. From the ridge, find a bolted anchor about 20m up and (climber's) left from the anchor of pitch 5. Note: Although the guidebook notes the rappels as 28-30m, many parties have found themselves 1-2m short of the next station when using a single 60m.

A great first summit close to camp to get an understanding of the area.

Close to camp and often climbed on "rest days" or as an introduction to the area. The first two pitches are optional and can be avoided by following a long ramp starting much further left. If you are comfortable at the grade, the direct start is a much more enjoyable option.

1. 5.8 30m - Find the "A" shaped cracks and climb the right side to an alcove.

2. 5.8 30-70m - Climb out of the alcove on the right and climb up multiple discontinued vertical cracks, pinching, and jamming. Great exposure. Belay after the vertical part or scramble up as far as rope drag and length will allow.

3. 5.5 50-70m - Scramble up easier terrain, staying just right of the steeper wall. Again, go as far as possible. Multiple ledges and anchor options.

4. You might have to do one more pitch of low fifth if you didn't do long pitches on 2 and 3.

5. 5.7 40m - Keep scrambling up and make your way to a left-leaning ramp with one awkward move to access it.

6. 5.8 40m - Climb up cracks and belay on a small ledge after a bulky move, right below the chimney.

7. 5.8 40m - This is the money pitch! Make sure it's yours! Climb the obvious chimey with wedged blocks to make it between the ears.

8. 4th class 15m - Climb to the eastern ear.

Descent: Downclimb or do a short rappel to regain the ledge between the ears then head around the back of the eastern ear. Do two single rope rappels and follow the ridge to gain the Cressent-Eastpost col.

The fantastic and highly recommended direct start variation to Ears Between.

1. 5.10-, 60m.

2. 5.7, 30m.

3. 5.8, 50m.

4. 5.9, 40m.

5. 5.8, 55m.

6. 5.6, 20m.

Link up of 'The Shooting Gallery', '7th Rifle' and 'Young Men on Fire'