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讨论岩壁

Trollfestningen 大多为传统攀登 14 线路 在 岩壁中

14
YDS
5.35.55.75.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c

季节分布

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

准入问题 取自Trolldalen

The valley is sheltered from wind & has standing water so in the spring/summer the mosquitoes here can be particularly bad. Bug spray recommended for the approach/trad lines. Pick other spots for bouldering.

There is a small pullout for 1/2 cars. If full, park at the Kalleveien/Hopsveien intersection. (68.195773, 14.335242)

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Grade 线路
1
AID:A0 M6 Stop the Reactors 攀冰 150m, 3

Described in the 2009 AAC article Lofoten, International Winter Meet, [topo here][https://aac-publications.s3.amazonaws.com/articles/aaj-12201022000-1410349367.jpg)

首攀: Jiri Splichal, Christophe Dumarest & Martin Klonfar, 2009

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2
6+ AID:A1 Swedish Highway Blues 传统攀登
3
6- ★★★ Fingerrisset 传统攀登 50m

首攀: helge stokstad & Rune Thrap-Meyer, 1982

4
7 ★★★ Odins bue 传统攀登 200m, 6
1 7- 30m
2 7 25m
3 7 25m
4 7 30m
5 6+ 40m
6 4 50m

One of the finest crack climbs on the islands. Starts at the base of the steep left trending arch. Approached by wandering left on the ledge after climbing P1/2 of Spurven or Colibrien. Needs time to dry, some micro wires & plenty of green/purple cams.

To descend
traverse over to the Colibrien rapp station (you may want to rope up when scrambling down the final section of slab).

Some images

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Ingrid Velken Kverneland (@ingridvelken)

首攀: Jonas Tetlie & Andreas Christiansen, 1998

5
AID:A3 Cmelák 器械攀登
6
AID:A3 Nemesis trollkirka 器械攀登
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7
3 The Approach Pitch 传统攀登 70m
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8
6- ★★ Colibrien 传统攀登 180m, 5
1 4
2 5-
3 6-
4 6-
5 3+

首攀: Finn Jensen & Niels Poulsen, 1979

9
6+ ★★ Spurven 传统攀登 180m, 5
1 5+
2 5
3 6+
4 5+
5 3+

首攀: Arild Meyer & Kjell Skog, 1977

10
6- Spurven/Colibrien 传统攀登
11
6+ ★★ Havørnen 传统攀登 170m, 6
1 4
2 5-
3 6+
4 6-
5 6

首攀: Ed Webster & Leif Henriksen, 1998

12
7- ★★★ Kingfisher 传统攀登 110m, 3

首攀: Mathias Stromqvist, 2008

13
7- AID:A0 After Work 传统攀登
14
6 High roller 传统攀登 12

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

Lofoten Climbs

作者: C. Craggs, Th. Enevold

日期: 2017

Lofoten - perfect, grey granite in dramatic landscapes. These islands provide terrain for every climber. Whether multi-pitch, sport climbing routes or long trad routes

购买
ⓘ
Bouldering in Lofoten

作者: J. Paulsson

日期: 2016

国际书号: 9789163904189

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the bouldering found in the Lofoten Islands in northern Norway, covering more than 700 problems in 24 separate bouldering areas.

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ⓘ
Climb Norway

作者: R.Carlsen und L. V. Wagelid

日期: 2021

国际书号: 9788299776981

A comprehensive guidebook covering 34 of the main sport climbing areas in Norway, detailing many 1,000's of routes.

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6- ★★★ Fingerrisset

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