线路 in Skjomdalen

A mixed route

Featured on the front cover & described in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2021

Gear beta:

• Small alpine rack (Cams, nuts & pitons)
• 12-14 ice screws.

Descent: Reverse the route. There´s one rappelling anchor at the top (1 nut & 1 piton).

1. 5 pitches of easy terrain past ledges with a lot of debris.

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6. Follows an obvious RF dihedral for 3 pitches to it´s end.

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9. The crux 55-meter pitch leads up & right into run-out terrain, where it’s tricky to find the path of least resistance.

10. A short pitch to a good ledge. 10m. A possible bivy site.

11. A sequence that involves changing corners to the right is followed by climbing left to the next stance.

12. Steep but well protected climbing.

13. The angle eases off slightly, starting left then back right & towards the right-hand side of a pillar. A chimney behind the pillar leads to the summit.

70m left of Crack-a-go-go. Follows a right trending groove; take some small cams & nuts.

The cleaned slab right of Lady

Topo here

20m left of Crack-a-go-go. Topo here

Thin finger crack to DBB on a ledge. Rumoured to go free around 9-/9

Up Flaket then right across horizontal crack after 10m to gain the crack left of La Linja.

The aesthetic crack splitting the wall. The crag classic.

Some images:

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Image here:

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The short wide crack

En åpen projekt. DBB

DBB

DBB

En åpen projekt. Beskrivelse her

Closed project. DBB

The long groove to the right of Top of Europe. Small nuts needed for the start.

Trends right then back into Peanøttforbundet Topo here

Description & topo here

DBB

En åpen projekt

Description and topo

Located on the wall above Habanos. DBB

Fun stemming/finger crack up the dihedral.

To access this route, follow the ledge to its end untill an obvious V shaped edge marks the route's topout. Abseil in off a tree.

The route is situated in the next big buttress to the north of route ”Påskeeggen” on Gangesaksla ENE face. Follow shore or do the approach by boat.

Very nice long route offering good variety of climbing corners, splitter cracks and slabs. Excellent rock quality, little vegetation and loose rock (except on ledges and ramps) gives an enjoyable and interesting tour with difficulties no more than grade 6 plus a few metres of thin hands crack which probably go free around 6+/7-. Some little run-outs <5m are encountered, but they are pretty straight forward with one exception: pitch 9 being a little bit more complex.

The lower part (p 1-15) of the route consists of dihedrals and cracks with occassional slab cruxes in between. Pitches 7-13 are especially nice. After p 15 there is a super big ledge with snow and water running from the right side.

The upper part is easy going and more open offering a nice promenade with most of the Skjomen fjord as a beutiful backdrop and Frostisen glacier coming into sight as the height is gained. Start by climbing weird structures inside of wide crack/gully which splits the face. Continue climbing this for about 200 metres or 3-4 pitches. In the uppermost part after coming out of the crack/gully system the climbing goes little by little diagonally left to top out almost at the left corner of the whole rock face.

Pic from NTK here