A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Predrag Bradarić Bernii Nikola Stratijev Nikola Damir Deljanin Slavenko Bozic Petr Bojan Š Oliver Andersen Maria Larsen
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Gornjačka klisura / Gornjak / Горњачка клисура
74 in Crag
- 1.1. 29 alpinista 9 routes in Sector
- 1.2. Sportiva 5 routes in Sector
- 1.3. Burgija 6 routes in Sector
- 1.4. Drugi stub 7 routes in Sector
- 1.5. Glavica 2 routes in Sector
- 1.6. Blok ispod puta 12 routes in Sector
- 1.7. Ass Photo Session 2 routes in Sector
- 1.8. Novi blok / Dobar hlad 31 routes in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Gornjačka klisura
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.277909, 21.530306
总结
ENG
One of the oldest climbing areas in Serbia with lots of easy climbs.
SRB
Jedno od najstarijih penjališta u Srbiji sa obiljem lakih smerova.
描述
ENG
More info about the crag is available here: https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/gornjacka-klisura/
SRB
Više informacija možete naći na sledećem linku: https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/gornjacka-klisura/
前往
ENG
Using a car, from Belgrade you'll need a little less than 2 hours to get to Gornjak gorge (some ~130 km). First part of the road is on E75 highway for some 60 km. Exit from highway to Požarevac and continue using regional roads for another 55 km towards Petrovac city. From there, continue towards Gornjak gorge for another 15 km (to the first parking space, right across the "Kod Rajka" restaurant).
Google Maps location: (44.275460, 21.523916)
There are several designated parking spots in the gorge. Read more about recommended parking spot in the particular sector description.
SRB
Kolima od Beograda je potrebno nešto manje od 2 sata puta do Gornjačke klisure (nekih ~130 km). Putuje se E75 autoputem nekih 60 km do izlaza za Požarevac. Odatle još 55 km magistralnim putevima do Petrovca na Mlavi. Odatle još 15 km do Gornjačke klisure (prvog parkinga kod restorana "Kod Rajka").
Google Maps lokacija: (44.275460, 21.523916)
Postoji nekoliko parking lokacija u klisuri. Pogledajte opis konkretnog sektora za više informacija o preporučenoj parking lokaciji.
1.1. 29 alpinista
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.277185, 21.526056
1.1.1. Desno
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 44.277142, 21.526188
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Kona | 6a+ | 12m | |||
2 | Pipavko | 5c | 12m | |||
3 |
★ Zagor Te-nej
警示 岩壁: Potential rock fall | 6b+ | 20m | |||
4 | ★ Čiko | 6a | 20m | |||
5 | Marti Misterija | 6a | 20m | |||
6 | Mister No | 6a+ | 20m | |||
7 | 2 tone | 5b | 35m |
1.1.2. Ispod
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 44.277241, 21.525908
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ljuta baba | 6b+ | ||||
2 | Dobri deda | 5b | 14m |
1.2. Sportiva
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.276159, 21.526682
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Jagnjeća brigada
More info: https://alpbg.forumsr.com/t222-praznine-radosti-jagnjea-brigada 首攀: Vaso Stokić & Tomislav Topalović, 2013 | 4a+ | 110m, 3 | |||
2 |
★★★ Katanko
This route actually has bolts, but they are badly placed and there's a REAL RISK OF A GROUND FALL right after 2nd bolt. The rock face is crumbly here and there, especially after winter.
More info: https://m.facebook.com/AlpinistickiOdsekBeograda/photos/a.223523657775596/249125028548792/ 首攀: Nemanja Nešković, Predrag Ćurdić & Nikola Đurić, 2012 | 6b | 110m, 2 | |||
3 |
★★★ Mijurko
First anchor is the tree at the top! This route actually has bolts, however, they are sparsely placed, so be careful if you decide to climb this as a sport route. More info: https://m.facebook.com/AlpinistickiOdsekBeograda/photos/a.223523657775596/244951548966140/ 首攀: Nemanja Nešković & Tomislav Topalović, 2012 | 6a+ | 90m, 2 | |||
4 |
Maljčiki
More info: https://alpbg.forumsr.com/t221-praznine-radosti-maljiki 首攀: Vaso Stokić & Tomislav Topalović, 2013 | 5c | 110m, 3 | |||
5 |
★★ Kobrica
More info: https://alpbg.forumsr.com/t209-04-03-2013-trea-srea 首攀: Tomislav Topalović & Nikola Đurić, 2013 | 5b | 120m, 3 |
1.3. Burgija
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.274979, 21.527622
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Promašeni bolt | 5a | 13m | |||
2 | Greg | 6a | 15m | |||
3 | Australija | 5a | 15m | |||
4 | Daj nešto na srpskom | 4c | 15m | |||
5 | Okasto – viljuškasti | 5b | 27m | |||
6 | Pokojni Toza | 5b | 26m |
1.4. Drugi stub
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.275485, 21.528819
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cinquecento | 5b | 19m | |||
2 | Čeka Milicu da mu da ime | 4a | 25m | |||
3 | Zlatnik | 5a | 30m | |||
4 | Ma nisam ja seka persa | 6c | 25m | |||
5 | Sjaj | 6a+ | 25m | |||
6 | Dijagonalka | 6a | 65m | |||
7 | Diable | 6a+ | 25m |
1.5. Glavica
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.278020, 21.529038
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Tri trbuha | 6a | 55m, 2 | |||
2 | Diskoteka | 5c | 45m, 2 |
1.6. Blok ispod puta
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.271542, 21.535046
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Za poneti
定线/开线: 2007 | 5a | 17m | |||
2 |
★★ Zamalo
定线/开线: 2007 | 5a | 17m | |||
3 |
★★ Slatki Greh
定线/开线: 2007 | 6a | 17m | |||
4 |
★★ Lepa Brena
定线/开线: 2007 | 6c | 17m | |||
5 |
★ Mače Moje
定线/开线: 2007 | 6a | 12m | |||
6 |
★★ 11 mm
定线/开线: 2007 | 6a+ | 17m | |||
7 |
★★★ Kamen I Patika
定线/开线: 2007 | 6b | 14m | |||
8 |
★★ Spiderpig
定线/开线: 2007 | 5b | 17m | |||
9 |
★★ Brate Robote
定线/开线: 2007 | 5b | 14m | |||
10 |
★★ Zdravo, Živo!
定线/开线: 2014 | 6b+ | 17m | |||
11 |
★★ Gornjački prvi
定线/开线: 2007 | 6a+ | 15m | |||
12 |
Školski
定线/开线: 2007 | 5c | 15m |
1.7. Ass Photo Session
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.272089, 21.535404
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ass photo sesion | 5c | 38m, 2, 2 | |||
2 | Lividan | 6b | 32m |
1.8. Novi blok
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.271450, 21.546248
描述
Most anchors are either ring/s or 2 glue-ins, i.e. there is no clip-in.
前往
Park at the side of the road (either left or right, both have space for parking). Walk up the marked trail for about 20 minutes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Prakosovo (1. pitch)
定线/开线: Nemanja Dabizljevic, 2020 | 5c | ||||
2 |
★★★ Prakosovo (2. pitch)
定线/开线: Nemanja Dabizljevic, 2020 | 7b | 40m, 2, 25 | |||
3 |
★★ Junšpi (1. pitch)
定线/开线: Branko Nedeljkovic, 2020 | 6a+ | 8 | |||
4 |
Junšpi, Špijun
定线/开线: Markus Maier, 2020 | 7b+ | 2 | |||
5 |
★★ Hisaja
定线/开线: Bratislav Mihajlovic, 2020 | 6b+ | 20m, 12 | |||
6 |
★★ Ide (1. pitch)
定线/开线: Bratislav Mihajlovic, 2020 | 7a | 10 | |||
7 |
Ide, Gas
定线/开线: Bratislav Mihajlovic, 2020 | 7c+ | 2 | |||
8 |
★★★ Niža sila (1. pitch)
定线/开线: Markus Maier, 2020 | 7a | 8 | |||
9 |
Niža sila, Viša sila
定线/开线: Markus Maier, 2020 | 7c | 2 | |||
10 |
★★ Monah Gavrilo (1. pitch)
定线/开线: Bratislav Mihajlovic, 2020 | 6b+ | 6 | |||
11 |
Monah Gavrilo, Kosingas
定线/开线: Bratislav Mihajlovic, 2020 | 7c+ | 2 | |||
12 |
★★★ Ilijada (1. pitch)
定线/开线: Bratislav Mihajlovic, 2020 | 6c | 7 | |||
13 |
Ilijada, Odiseja
定线/开线: Luka Perunovic, 2020 | 7b | 2, 18 | |||
14 |
★★ Lola
定线/开线: Branko Nedeljkovic, 2020 | 7a+ | 16m, 9 | |||
15 |
★★ Dogodine u Prizrenu
定线/开线: Branko Nedeljkovic & Nemanja Dabizljević, 2020 | 7b+ | 9 | |||
16 |
Bum tras
定线/开线: Luka Perunovic, 2020 | 7c+ | 7 | |||
17 |
No name (1. pitch)
定线/开线: Luka Perunovic, 2020 | 7c+ | 8 | |||
18 |
No name, No Name
警示 固定装置: 2nd Pitch is Project and is Under Development First pitch is 8 clips 定线/开线: Luka Perunovic, 2020 定线/开线: Luka Perunovic, 2020 | 7c+ | 2, 8 | |||
19 |
Moonboard
定线/开线: Nemanja Dabizljevic, 2020 | 7b+ | 6 | |||
20 |
Endi
定线/开线: Nemanja Dabizljevic, 2020 | 7c+ | 16m, 9 | |||
21 |
★★ Jebendus
定线/开线: Branko Nedeljkovic, 2020 | 6c+ | 16m, 9 | |||
22 |
★★ Prva liga
定线/开线: Nemanja Dabizljevic, 2020 | 6a | 8 | |||
23 |
★★ Tabu
定线/开线: Branko Nedeljkovic, 2020 | 6b+ | 7 | |||
24 |
★★ Slatka kučka
定线/开线: Branko Nedeljkovic, 2020 | 6b | 16m, 7 | |||
25 |
Žastin
定线/开线: Bratislav Mihajlovic, 2020 | 6c | 22m, 13 | |||
26 |
★★★ Serpentina
定线/开线: Luka Perunovic & Markus Maier, 2020 | 7b+ | 12 | |||
27 |
★ Valjevsko pivo
定线/开线: Markus Maier, 2020 | 6a+ | 24m, 12 | |||
28 |
★ Čika Dule
定线/开线: Č. Ivić & D. Kopčalić, 10月 2022 | 5c | 12m, 7 | |||
29 |
★★ Parking kazna
定线/开线: Č. Ivić & D. Kopčalić, 10月 2022 | 6a/a+ | 12m, 6 | |||
30 |
Čedo
定线/开线: Č. Ivić & D. Kopčalić, 10月 2022 | 7a+ | 13m, 8 | |||
31 |
Mala sirena
定线/开线: Č. Ivić & D. Kopčalić, 10月 2022 | 7a | 13m, 10 |