攀登 of Direct

Very very dicey when wet!

Risk my life to climb this route. It will collapse one day

Double run for trad placements 🥳

First bolt is very far and sketchy to reach, a hold around 3rd clip feels loose

Warming up on Direct, always fun. Stuff in the middle feeling looser each time, only a matter of time before a few more chunks come off.

Always fun. Setting up a toprope for a group.

Setting up a toprope, always a fun route. Some nice big chunks of granite which feel a little looser each time.

Warm up

Loose 20" diameter sized rock below the 4th(?) hanger

When climbing in the rain, maybe a couple of grades higher, but very fun and manageable!

Climbed with Cat and she led it afterwards!! Giving a community grade contribution of 5b

If Take it easy is 5a, then Direct is 5b+, the left bolted route version of Direct is 5c.

Cruised up in the dark, which made it quite a bit more challenging due to not being able to see my feet most of the time. Hilarious.

Lead it to set up a top rope, always a fun route.

Rained off at the 4th clip. I’m beginning to think some sky deity doesn’t want me to lead rope solo this route. In other news, the bottom threaded anchor or direct takes an M10 threaded bolt (a dismantled Hilti HSA works real pretty and is rated for shear strength). There is some real break yourself potential on this route if you were to slip near the next bolt when LRSing.

Started questing up lead rope solo then realised it was in the direct sun and I was getting an impressive bit of sunburn. Binned it in favour of avoiding skin cancer.

Maillon Rescue Service

sketchy topout, lead partner found it more sketchy as well

The rock is featured enough at the bottom to easily setup an anchor for soloing. One 0.75 cam and two small nuts worked fine for me.