Duiwel's Kloof Guide

Start from the traverse line below the face, the path scrambles around a gendarme and further up to below the main face. Start in the left-middle of the face on a slightly raised platform below an obvious break.

1. Move left and climb up to a block. Up this to a ledge. Walk right for 20m and climb a flake before continuing right to a good stance.

2. Climb the open-book behind the tree and exit right along the ledge to a semi-chimney.

3. Climb the chimney and swing out to the right. Continue up to a stance, and go right to a ledge.

4. Traverse to the left end of the ledge. From the top of a triangular ledge, traverse left until able to move down onto a ledge. Continue easily left, climb a break and move back right to a ledge. Walk right

5. Lean across right and take-off before moving back left again. Climb up over flakes and traverse left over a high flake. Continue up to a ledge.

6. Traverse left over loose blocks and then up the face above. Traverse right across the water=-worn face and then up to a beacon.

7. Climb out of the cave on the left, then move back right and scramble off to the summit.

Descent: from the top, walk down diagonally leftwards (looking in) to a small vlakte where the main path leading down is joined.

The route starts in the centre of the amphitheatre and follows Hallucination for three pitches, continuing straight up after that route's easy (15) crack above the tree.

1. (200m) Scramble up Hallucination, and after the crack pitch continue up the break above for about 10m to a small ledge.

2. Climb a few metres up a slight break until it is possible to climb and traverse diagonally right into a corner. Climb this, exiting right to a ledge, walk about 20m left to large blocks below a layback flake.

3. Climb up the flake and layback around. Move up to a resting flake/crack with a bush in it mid-height. Continue to a ledge.

4. Move up to a traverse line and traverse left to an old peg. Continue traversing until able to move back right to a small ledge below a brownish groove.

5. Climb the steep groove. Continue up to a good horizontal break, starting a long obvious traverse line left. Belay on angles.

6. Aid left with some hard moves to find placements near the end. Move up a little and continue traversing left to a clearly visible crack over on the left. Hanging belay.

7. Climb up. Move left and continue up until able to climb diagonally right to the top.

Descent: from the top, walk down diagonally leftwards (looking in) to a small vlakte where the main path leading down is joined.

Start 50m left of Lucifer, above some small trees at the top of the scree. The route utilizes the same initial buttress as Lucifer. Scramble up to a ledge on the front of the buttress and walk left to the end of the ledge.

1. Climb an overhanging crack to a stance with blocks on the left.

2. From the tree on the right, climb a thin crack to a bush. Move up leftwards into a recess. Follow this to a ledge.

3. Climb diagonally left for a rope length to a recess leading back right.

4. Follow the recess diagonally right before moving across back left to a stance on some large blocks.

5. From the top of the blocks climb a crack, passing an overhang on the left.

6. Move up and right, then back left past a ledge. Continue up to a large bushy ledge. Walk 50m right.

7. Climb up cracks to the top of a large block.

8. Start left from the block and up a crack. Move right into another crack and climb back right on hollow flakes on a corner to a block. Move left to the skyline and up to a stance.

9. Climb the crack and another on the right. Follow easier rock.

10. Descend for 3m and traverse right. Climb the face on the right to a ledge.

11. Climb the recess above on good blocks. Exit right onto easy rock. Continue up behind an enormous block to a ledge on the left

12. Take a low traverse left, move up to the skyline. Climb up for 10m to an obvious block on the left.

13. Traverse Left for 4m into a break diagonally right. Climb a small overhang and steep face for 6m. Traverse left on knobbles.

14. A traverse left from the stance eases left into a recess. Go diagonally right for 10m.

15. Start on the left and go straight up, then tend diagonally left to a stance.

16. Climb the recess above to a big ledge. Walk left for 100m to an easy break leading diagonally right to the top.

Takes a line up the middle of the wall. Start where the scree is at its highest point against the face. Scramble up a yellow buttress on the right of the scree and walk 5m right to a recess.

1. Climb the recess past a block. Move left around the corner to a crack.

2. Climb up a recess and scramble up for about 45m to a steeper wall.

3. Over the left is a grassy recess with a gendarme about 8m to the right. Climb the right-hand side of this and from the top traverse right to laid back rock leading to ledges.

4. Traverse left to a chimney, Exit right and head diagonally right to a stance with a tree.

5. Climb the bottomless open book above, moving slightly leftwards.

6. Continue up the open-book which gains a large ledge.

7. Traverse off the right-hand side of the ledge and move up to belay on a ramp.

8. Climb the ramp to an open-book

9. Move up to a roof and pass it on the left. Continue straight up.

10. Scramble up easier rock to a ledge on the right beneath an overhang.

11. Climb through the gap on the right of the roof and so up to a ledge leading off rightwards into a gully.

Scramble up ledges and two rock bands to the middle of the face and the highest easy grass ledge. Start in the middle where the ledge starts to fade.

1. Climb up the easiest line (avoid some loose flakes) to a large ledge below the roof.

2. Traverse right below the roof on a good rail to a small stance where the roof ends and the rock becomes white.

3. Climb through the roof at a jam crack. Continue up to a nose, and climb up steeply on the left of this easier rock. Continue over easy rock to a large ledge.

4. Continue up the dihedral just left of the roof above. Climb through the second roof and belay.

5. Traverse left on the obvious line on blocks, dropping down at one or two places. From the ledge climb to the apex of the blocks on the left.

6. Climb the face above on holes in the rock, up left into a steep break and thus to a rail. Traverse right and up to a stance.

7. Continue directly above on steep rock and then easier rock to a rotten ledge below the main overhangs on the face.

8. Move off the right-hand end and then up a hidden recess to a ledge on the left.

9. Move up and traverse left. Continue up and left to a steep section leading to a belay ledge.

10. Traverse left up the nose until the rope runs out (small stance).

11. Continue up scruffy rock to a good stance.

12. Climb up tending diagonally.

Start on the right-hand side of the face. Scramble from the nek up around to the left-hand side of the initial buttress and through the small rock band to a ledge.

1. Climb an open-book and then up and right until able to move left to a stance.

2. Move left onto the undercut slab and up to a ledge.

3. Continue up left (broken recess). Move right and across to a small stance.

4. Traverse 5m right to break through the overhang. Up a crack and bush to a stance.

5. Move up and over a slab to a recess. Belay below the overhangs.

6. Move right and up and a steep crack and wall. Scramble off to the right.