条目 in Groot Hangklip

Multipitch Trad facing the sea

MCSA Journal 1943 p53

A New Route on the Hangklip, Cape (MCSA Journal 1960, p109)

MCSA Journal 1961, p78-79

MCSA Journal 1965, p113-114

MCSA Journal 1965, p114-115

MCSA Journal 1981 p61

MCSA Journal 1989 p133-136

• 50m: 17/18 for 5m, then 15 for 45m
• 30m: roof with loosish rock (not recommended, rather avoid by climbing further to the right)
• 22m: skirt the first little roof on it's right, then fairly straight up to large ledge.
• 20m: layback pinch flake
• 25m: white face *
• 20m: first corner from boulder (19), then step up to gain 2nd face (22)
• 55m: committing moves on smears

Start: 20m to the left of Cape Pushover, aiming for the obvious corner below the overhangs.

1. Climb the face and corner. Then traverse left along the lower (less obvious) rail until clear of the overhangs. A delicate move establishes you on the face. Tend to the right on another 8m of face climbing brings you to a stance.

2. Avoid the bushes by climbing the slabby blunt arête consisting of large boulders. Then a short steep corner below a V-notch (crux) brings you to the Smiley rap and a few meters of scrambling further, to the cave. Have a T, then rappel down. Or do one of the cave pitches.

Start to the left of the Smiley Cave.

Climb the Centre of the Smiley Cave (FA aid).

Easy to combine pitches 3&4 or 4&5

• 40m 18: Climb easily up gray slabby steps for about 15m to below the square roof. Skirt the roof on it's left, then tend slightly left up the corners (crux) to a small overlap. Balance through the overlap on to easier ground. Move up and right to squeeze between a large bush (on your left) and a small overhang (on your right). Continue easily to a large ledge.
• 20m 26 (consensus needed): Follow the corner crack to the large roof. Traverse left, then boulder through the roof to a massive jug on the lip. Pull strenuously up the vertical holds to establish on the face. Move up and right for 2m, then left to semi hanging stance on small grassy patch.
• 20m 17: Climb diagonally up and right, then follow a vague arête onto a few meters of slab. A few meters of steeper ground, then another slabby section takes you to a small grassy ledge that gets much wider to the right.

Rap at tat. Or walk right and scramble (roped) up the grassy ledges passed a tree (tat) to the top.