攀登 in Sloth Crag

Found the top quite exposed and scary and climbed like a potato. Why clip with a straight arm and relaxed body when you can lock off like a beast Repeated it to clean it up

Couldn’t clip at the top of the crux, not sure how, and if necessary 😀. Also couldn’t decide between going left or right at top of the crux. Anyway, great route, wish had more time to finish.

All bolts seem a bit rusted. Especially those two at the top..

It didn’t feel like 17 for me - it required more strength than I’d expect for this grade, but that’s perhaps due to lack of proper technique.. 😀

Bad conditions at Badkloof today, howling winds and reed cutting/wheateater sounds in the background made this route feel contrived and I could not figure out how to clip 🥴 mission aborted!

Pretty good....2 cruxes

Couple of nice finger locks in the crack, and the headwall offers the best sequence of climbing I've done so far. What a route!

2nd Go

Some nice hand jams in the crack

Powerful move in an airy position. Soft for 21?

Work that crack, baby. Not a giveaway 17. Great to get out with Grant again.

Very hard 23! 7 bolts + permadraws

Beta: Rh layback, turn body to the right, left hand undercling, match. Slide left hand to sidepull (gets better highter up), rh crimp, clip. Go left hand up first to crimp, match, rh to rail on right as far left, crossover with left then jug rh right, clip. Lh layback, rh undercling fingerlock to set feet up on right, go lh up high to chalked head, foot far right go to jugs to clip for chains.

Hard, short, pumpy boulder problem route that deserves 4 stars and not just 2 as indicated in book. Great & fun route, was given stellar beta 😊 Important body positioning. Top out to the left, not right 😉

With Josh, he likes to spy out a 1 star sport crack climb!

With Josh, he likes to spy out a 1 star sport crack climb!

2nd go

Anchor bolts rusted