Good And Evil Area Rock climbing 23 线路 在 岩壁中

Not such a pretty face when viewed through the fig tree. But the upper section has great climbing. Negotiate the blocky little corner 2m right of 'I.M.O. Julius' thru the fig tree to access this narrow face between 2 chimney lines. Take care with some of the blocks down low.

Start up 'Brutus' for 5 U-bolts, stepping left onto 'Darth' face just above the fig tree, just below the crux sequence. These are very sweet moves, lay-backing right and left.

Climb the chimney, as for 'Cesar', but stay outside the cleft, stemming left onto 'Just Another Pretty Face' to avoid moving into the bowels of the earth, where the climb steepens. Up to anchors just left of the cleft.

Climb the fun chimney left of 'Woodchoppers and Waterbearers' and discover the cave system. Protected by 4 U-bolts on 'Brutus', then 3 U-bolts inside the chimney. Use anchors above and left of the cleft.

The obvious arête on the big blocky buttress to the left of the highest section of the crag when looking from the farmhouse parking. Stay left of the 5th bolt that was placed out there due to hollow sounding rock on the arête.

Overbolted? Could be your 1st 16. Pull onto the face 1m right of TOL. Continue up the slab, 1st slightly left, then up. The holds become a bit thin just before the anchor.

1. [18] XXm

   This ledge can be used to climb all pitches above – 2 extra bolts lead leftward back to 'Sonny Boy'. The ledge can be accessed more easily at ~ grade 11 by starting up 'Sonny Boy' then heading right after the 4th bolt – to practice 2 pitch climbing. [7D]

2. [19] XXm

   From the belay, go diagonally right up the slab. This steepens below a corner, which is followed up to the anchors. The 2 pitches can easily be done as one [16D]

20? From the belay, go diagonally right up the slab. This steepens below a corner, which is followed up to the anchors. The 2 pitches can easily be done as one [16D].

Starting at a multi-stemmed tree, climb the curved crack to an aloe. Step left onto the ledge with a block, climb the face following the corner for 15m. Rail out left on face up to an ab tree. Take plenty small gear.