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Aasvoelkrans

  • 难度体系: SA
  • 照片: 1
5
SA

总结

Trad

描述

Trad

准入问题

The farmer welcomes climbers, but please just drop him a line to let him know you are coming before-hand. Email using the contact form at https://wagenpad.com. Please do not make any fires, be respectful, bury your toilet paper and don’t leave any litter. Climbing is inherently dangerous and all climbing on the farm is at your own risk.

前往

(45 minutes - take long pants and enough water!) From the Sukkel sukkel hut (located here: https://goo.gl/maps/rZAhpTKtjuFkUomt5), walk uphill to a cairn at the start of the path which is marked with coloured strips of cloth. Start by walking diagonally up and left, through a gully and up a ridge. Continue up towards the gully on the right-hand side of the face and exit left onto a ledge system that traverses the base of the wall. A large cairn marks the endpoint of the final abseil and you can leave your bags here. . From here, a warm-up pitch can be climbed to the main starting ledge, or, you can continue walking leftwards to reach an easy but exposed scramble (may want to rope up) that also leads up to the ledge below the main wall where the routes start. There is no water in the gully or on the approach, or on top - so be sure to take enough (at least 2.5l per person).

Descent: At the top of the wall there are two options to descend. The one is to walk left (east) and down the ridgeline and then to descend down the gully flanking the left-hand side of the wall. The second option is to abseil. The start of the abseil line is marked by a large cairn on a prominent coffin shaped block (where State of Mind tops out). The abseils are all bolted with two stainless steel bolts and hangers with chains. They are 55m, 15m, 55m,45m, 35m. Note: there is a risk of getting a rope stuck on the second (15m) abseil. This risk can be mitigated by only using one rope for this 15m abseil (i.e not tying two ropes together).

住宿

Accommodation: Self catering cottages and camping facilities are available on the farm and make for a nice weekend away.

行为准则

Trad area only. The stances of the routes are not bolted, nor marked. The gear and rock-quality is generally quite good.

历史

历史时间线表

The first route opened on this cliff was "Vulture Culture", by Leonard le Roux, Garrreth Bird and Jonathan Glover, in 2014.

标签

线路

添加线路 添加路线图 调整排序 批量编辑 难度体系换算
Grade 线路
  1. [XX] XXm
    ???
  2. [XX] XXm
    ???
  3. [XX] XXm
    ???
  4. [XX] XXm
    ???

首攀: Ben Stanwix & Anna Van der Ploeg, 2019

P1: 30m, (17). Start on the prow 5m to the left of the start of Vulture Culture. Climb up to the next ledge system and continue up the orange open book to a ledge.

P2: 30m (21). Start on the left-hand end of the ledge. Pull up to a rail. A difficult move leads up to the next rail (small cams and nuts). Move 2m left to where pockets lead up to good hand-holds that can be followed left-wards to a vertical crack (green BD cam). Climb up, moving further left onto the prow before coming back onto the right face and continuing up easier ground to stance on a ledge on the prow with a big jammed block.

P3: 30m (17). Continue straight up a crack system to the big lunch ledge. From here the next pitch starts 30m to the right (past a dassie traverse).

P4: 30m (16). Start at the base of an off-width crack in an open book. Climb the open book crack to a ledge. Continue up the corner to a stance on a second ledge next to a tree.

P5: 30m (18). From the stance, traverse 3m right on good rails to a vertical crack. Follow this to a ledge.

P6: 30m (17). Follow the crack system to the top.

首攀: Leonard le Roux & Ben Stanwix, 2020

1 19 30m
2 20 30m
3 17 35m
4 17 35m
5 15 30m

Start: This route climbs up the large brown open-book system on the left-hand side of the wall.

P1: 30m (19). Climb the recess to a ledge, continue up the crack at the centre of the open-book to a large ledge.

P2: 30m (20). Continue up the crack until forced left under the roof. Delicate moves lead to a ledge stance on the left-hand edge of the large roof.

P3: 35m (17). Climb up the corner and continue straight up to the lunch ledge.

P4: 35m (17). Climb up the crack system nearest to the arette, directly above the last pitch. After 15m, cross over to the right hand side of the arette to a scoop. Continue up, passing by the left hand end of the prominent triangular roof visible from the base of the cliff.

P5: 30m (15). Continue straight up to the top.

首攀: Garrreth Bird, John Glover & Leonard le Roux, 2014

1 17 35m
2 23 30m
3 18 30m
4 17 30m
5 19 20m
6 17 15m
7 18 30m

P1: 35m (17). Start up the corner system 5m to the right of Vulture Culture. Climb up to a ledge and continue straight up the crack system to where it is topped by a small roof. Move 1m left to a Hanging stance.

P2: 30m (23). Move up into a corner, step right above the roof and then move back left into a crack . Follow this up to a stance below the prominent chimney/slot.

P3. 30m (18). Climb up the chimney/slot. At the top, move 2m right, pull through the overlap into a crack and follow this to stance at a ledge.

P4. 30m (17). Move 5m left. Climb the vertical recess leading up to the lunch ledge.

P5. 20m (19). At the top of P4 is a face with a set of vertical cracks. Climb the vertical crack second from the right hand edge of the face to a ledge.

P6. 15m (17). Move left to a crack system and continue 3m up to a stance.

P7. Climb up the face and traverse left into the large chimney system. Continue to the top.

首攀: Duncan Fraser & Leonard le Roux, 2019

1 17
2 21
3 16
4 18

P1: 17

P2: 21

P3: 16

P4: 18

首攀: Garrreth Bird & Julia Wakeling, 2019

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