Trad
Trad
Trad
The farmer welcomes climbers, but please just drop him a line to let him know you are coming before-hand. Email using the contact form at https://wagenpad.com. Please do not make any fires, be respectful, bury your toilet paper and don’t leave any litter. Climbing is inherently dangerous and all climbing on the farm is at your own risk.
(45 minutes - take long pants and enough water!) From the Sukkel sukkel hut (located here: https://goo.gl/maps/rZAhpTKtjuFkUomt5), walk uphill to a cairn at the start of the path which is marked with coloured strips of cloth. Start by walking diagonally up and left, through a gully and up a ridge. Continue up towards the gully on the right-hand side of the face and exit left onto a ledge system that traverses the base of the wall. A large cairn marks the endpoint of the final abseil and you can leave your bags here. . From here, a warm-up pitch can be climbed to the main starting ledge, or, you can continue walking leftwards to reach an easy but exposed scramble (may want to rope up) that also leads up to the ledge below the main wall where the routes start. There is no water in the gully or on the approach, or on top - so be sure to take enough (at least 2.5l per person).
Descent: At the top of the wall there are two options to descend. The one is to walk left (east) and down the ridgeline and then to descend down the gully flanking the left-hand side of the wall. The second option is to abseil. The start of the abseil line is marked by a large cairn on a prominent coffin shaped block (where State of Mind tops out). The abseils are all bolted with two stainless steel bolts and hangers with chains. They are 55m, 15m, 55m,45m, 35m. Note: there is a risk of getting a rope stuck on the second (15m) abseil. This risk can be mitigated by only using one rope for this 15m abseil (i.e not tying two ropes together).
Accommodation: Self catering cottages and camping facilities are available on the farm and make for a nice weekend away.
Trad area only. The stances of the routes are not bolted, nor marked. The gear and rock-quality is generally quite good.
The first route opened on this cliff was "Vulture Culture", by Leonard le Roux, Garrreth Bird and Jonathan Glover, in 2014.
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