A rap in and climb out route. Two money pitches and two linkers. A nice day out for those wanting to experience the Slanghoek exposure, without the big wall logistics.
Start: do the first long 60m rap on APU. From anchor 15 (as per abseil topo), go straight down for 35m to ledge with some large blocks and a large tree.
(1 bolt) Start left of the tree, over some blocky ground to a thin seem and bolt. Straight up the step recess to a rail, traverse right ~2m and pull steeply over the roof. Straight up to a hard move (crux) before easier ground continues directly up to a finger crack just before the bolted anchor.
Tend up and right keeping just right of the series of steep orange overlaps. Up the blocky recess to belay on the left side of a giant, grey, disc shaped boulder.
Step left and up orange rock to a vague corner. Steeply up and left into a bottomless open book. Follow cracks to exit right onto a ledge. Traverse a few meters right under a crack in the narrow roof to an easier looking break on the right.
15m (18) Pull over the low roof into the left of two water run offs with gritty rock. At the ledge ~5m up, traverse right for several meters (there is gear in the vertical grooves – small cams and wires). On left side of ledge, pull up and left onto a slab with more vertical groove on the right. Straight up on flat edges to the left of main groove to reach the top roof. Pull up and right to a stance on the rim (#2 Camalot size crack and can be backed up on highline bolts ~7m to the left).
Notes: First pitch climbed clean on second but not on lead as of July 2021.
17 3月 2020 | 首攀: S. Nightingale & Richard Halsey |
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24, 16, 22, 18 | 难度等级 |
★★Scurvy |
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