线路 in Western Cape for selected grade

Route up and down.

Climb up the steps

Climb the easy slab without hands.

This is the down climb on the opposite side.

Start on the beach side. Bum start, climb the right side of the flake using the incut layback.

Climb as for Wishing Well, but sit-start (sitting on the rock) higher on the layaway.

Sit-start with the jug / crack, move up right to a good ledge and top-out direct.

Start with left hand on a slopey gaston and right hand higher on a sidepull / pinch on the arête.

Sit-start with left hand in the groove and climb the broken face keeping left.

A pleasant if somewhat disjointed route up the north side of Barrier. Start at a large triangular block about 6m left of Barrier Pinnacle

1. Climb the crack on the left side of the block to a stance on top. hand traverse left for a few meters below a chimney/crack.

2. Climb the vertical chimney from the right-hand corner of the stance, traversing out left at the top. Scramble 30m in the direction of 11 o'clock to a pitch about 40m to the left of a prominent pinnacle.

3. From the level of the top of the pinnacle, traverse right for about 7m along a narrow ledge, then up 6m to a platform. move right into a crack which leads to a stance at the top of a prominent nose.

4. Climb the face behind the nose, moving diagonally right. turn a corner to gain a narrow ledge above

5. Traverse 7m along the ledge to a vertical fault in the final wall (facing Porcupine Buttress). Climb on the right side of the fault to the top.

Notes: there is a direct variation for the the first 3 pitches: pull up into a brown face and climb to a good hand-rail which enables you to do a strenuous and exposed hand swing (13) left to the base of a vertical, open chimney.

Hiking Approach:

The routes start up a small corner that faces Cape Town and is next (by a few meters) to the Fountain Ledge path, a short distance before the path swings sharply left to the scramble which leads to the upper ledge.

1. [10] 10m:

   Step off a block and climb up the knobbly corner to a ledge.

2. [10] 10m:

   Climb the next small face and traverse (Dassie crawl) left into a chamber under a large overhang. Note, the Dassie crawl starts just after passing the 'Holy Mackerel' layback crack which is capped by a triangular roof.

3. [10] 14m:

   Climb up the sloping block and squirm about 2m under the roof keeping left until you come out the other side. Sling a small protruding horn to prevent the rope getting stuck. Stand up awkwardly on the small ledge and climb the easy crack to the broad ledge above. Communication is difficult at this stage due to the followers being inside the cave below.

4. [11] 15m:

   Move left to twin cracks. Climb the left-hand one for about 5-6m and then move our right for 3m and continue up to a ledge at the base of the "Gendarme" (pinnacle).

5. [10] 10m:

   Climb to the top of the "Gendarme".

6. [12] 15m:

   Step across onto the face and traverse right, around the corner. Move up to the bottom of an exposed crack which is followed to a fair ledge.

7. Scramble to the summit.

When looking left from the lookout corner, this starts just at the ridge-line/sky-line where a slab leans against the cliff. Start up the left side of the slab.

1. 13, 17m. Up the left side of the slab (be careful of loose blocks) then step right, then up a finger crack to belay on a platform.

2. 11, 40m. Scramble straight up to an obvious clean break of darker rock between two lichenous faces, then up this and walk 4m left to belay on a ledge below an overhang.

3. 13, 26m. Traverse awkwardly right under the roof, then up a clean crack to a ledge, then traverse somewhat less awkwardly (though over some loose blocks) and under a roof leftwards to belay in a comfortable corner with a roof.

4. 13, 24m. Climb up the left side to escape past the roof to a platform, scramble up to a gully to the right, then up to the top.

Descent: scramble to the summit and hike down or walk rightwards to the rappel anchors (they are one level down with reasonable down-climb marked by cairns). 2x60m recommended. Just possible with 1x60m.

Starts just left of the concrete foundation (old lookout) on the left side of a detached flake.

1. [9] 25m. Climb the left side of the flake then follow cracks and face to the vegetated band above. Scramble up to and slightly left to a crack in a dihedral.

2. [12] 12m. Climb the open book to a ledge to the right with a white block on it.

3. [12] 30m. From the left end of the ledge, climb the crack to a ledge then up a large chimney and through a wormhole to the top.

Descent: Either hike to the top or go about 5m skiers-right and down to a rappel anchor (2x60m to bottom).

Sit-start with left hand on an edge and right hand on a smaller edge, right hand to sloper.

Hang-start on a jug and move up right to top-out onto the Skins boulder.

Hang-start on a big jug, traverse right along the lip and finish up the front of the prow.

Sit-start on two edges beneath the roof and top-out direct.

Climb the juggy arête feature.

Sit-start with both hands in the right end of the jug rail, left hand to a sidepull in a seam and top-out direct.

Sit-start and head straight up the crumbly comb.

Sit-start on a rail, RH to the hole.

Sit-start on jugs and top-out direct.

Hang-start on a super jug and head up slightly right.

Sit-start on a slopey ledge and top-out direct.

Sit-start on underclings and risking serious injury move right to a suspect block and up.

Sit-start with both hands on an undercling, right hand to a jug. Base is off for feet once you have the jug.

Climb the rippled slab on the right.

Hang-start in the rail, left hand to a jug, right hand up to a rail and top-out direct.

Hang-start with left hand on a 'two-pocket ledge' in the rail, climb diagonally right to two jugs in a rail and top-out direct without using the shelf on the right for feet. Gets high quick!

Crouch start and climb the juggy groove.

Standstart. Climb the slab to TO.

Standstart, climb slab up to the halfway ledge on the face.

Standstart. Climb the slab.

Stand start, climb the pinnacle, TO.

Stand start, climb the slab, TO.

SS on good holds and climb the steep face

Climb all over this face.

Climb up and onto a ledge and up again

Climb the arete to top out.

Climb the crack to top out.

Not to Ignore the Obvious. The only problem at Topside with a bum finish! You must sit down on the block at the end before your hands or feet leave the rock! Traverse left to right.

Reverse NTITO

Easy Arete. Hidden holds make this easier than it seems.

Climb the arete.

Some nonsense eliminate.

Sit start, climb directly up on square-cut edges.

Climb the arete to top out.

Sit start, climb the juggy crack to top out.

Sit start on the arête and traverse up along the juggy lip.

Stand start on a jug and top-out direct.

Sit start with BH in the jug rail, traverse R around the corner until you can stand on the rock

Sit start with BH in the big layback, climb the crack and TO

Sit start and climb the prow.

Climb the obvious layback crack, TO.

Start with both hands on large jug between 'cheeks'. climb directly up top out. Using a fist jam on this problem may be tempting, but consider your reputation...

Climb right arete.

Climb directly up, past overlap about 2m left of arete.

Start with hands on jug block under boulder. Traverse right to face left of arete, top out.

Start with hands on large block under boulder to top out.

Sit-start on the lowest jug, CD to TO.

Climb the big crack, from a sit-start. If you happen to own a full set of 13th century armour, then bring it along for this classic problem.

Climb the layback crack to TO.

Starting from the huge foothold, climb the slab between the arete and the crack (without using either of those features).

Sit start and climb the left-hand seam.

Sit start with left-hand in a slot, climb directly up to top out.

Climb the corner. More technical than you hoped...

Sit start, climb the prow to top out.

Start with right hand in good pocket. Climb slab to top out.

Sit start and climb face to top out.

There is a grade 3 variation that climb diagonally up left from the same start.

Climb the juggy arete.

Start in rail, long move climb diagonally right to good hold, then do battle with the bush to top out.

Sit start, climb to top out.

Sit start in the groove, top out.

SDS on the low flake and climb up the small arete.

The route lies to the right of the amphitheatre on the Central Turret. It follows a prominent rib that merges into the face halfway up and thereafter it ascends the face above. The first pitch commences on the left of the rib. Scramble up 6o feet to the bottom of two recesses.

1. 80 feet 'F inf.': Ascend the left-hand recess and pass through the bush to a broad ledge.

2. 85 feet 'F': A short distance to the left ascend a large block. Traverse to the left along the top of the block and climb up to a stance (piton).

3. 60 feet 'F: Ascend the recess by continuing past a possible line of traverse to the right until a good handrail is reached. Traverse to the right and continue up to a corner and large block.

4. and pitch 5 - 240 feet 'E': Walk round to the Crest of the rib and climbs straight up to a broad ledge below some overhangs.

5. Same as pitch 4.

6. 100 feet 'E inf.': Climbs to a stance visible on the right-hand skyline sonic 60 feet above the ledge (bush). An attempt was made to climb directly above the stance, but was abandoned owing to a dangerously loose block. Presumably this was the route followed by Mamacos and Schaff.

7. 60 feet 'A2': Two recesses will be noticed above. Climb up a few feet and traverse to the base of the left-hand one. Ascend the recess (s pitons) and overcome the bulge (2 pitons left in place) to reach an étrier stance next to another loose block.

8. 120 feet 'F sup.': This pitch is extremely exposed. Traverse to the right for 25 feet into the recess. Climb up the recess to the handrail and then traverse to the right, past the abseil cord, to a small stance. The strata and grips are all sloping the wrong way.

9. 40 feet 'F sup.': A thin, overhanging slit is visible on the skyline above and to the right. Climb up through this slit to a hidden stance.

10. 120 feet of scrambling upwards to the right takes one to a broad ledge. Walk left for about 300 feet to an obvious break.

11. 50 feet 'E': Climb up the recess and exit to the right to a stance below a bush.

12. 120 feet 'F: Continue past the bush and then move left into a gully on rounded grips.

Time for ascent: 8 hours.

Start on the lower tier on the face to the left of the prominent open book. Start on the left-hand side. climb diagonally right then up to the crack above. There are loose flakes at the base of the crack so be careful. When the crack gets hard exit right and up to finish.

Descent: Walk down the Cape Town side.

Climb the wide crack to the base of the twin cracks. Climb the right finger crack into the next wide crack to finish.

The route starts 3m right of the low overhang. Start below the thin diagonal crack. Climb beyond the feature and thru a bulge, climb the left diagonal rib to the tree. Rap off the tree.

Climb the chimney to access the narrow ledge on the left. Step left to access the crack, climb to top-out. Scramble out the back to access 'Smokescreen gully'

Top rope problem.

First, 2/3rd's has shade all day.

Surprisingly good

1. [12] 20m Start at the treed side of the chimney. Formed by massive blocks leaning against the face. Chimney up till able to place some gear, then continue onto the blocks, climb up these till you can again access the face. Using the hand rail, rail left for a few meters to access the break/ vague corner. Climb this carefully to the top.

Start right of the dipped face with the orange and black streaks.

1. Start ±3-6m right of 'Afterglow' (More grey/white rock with some more black streaks) Climb up to the break and then to the vegetated band. Move left to a stance below a corner.

2. Climb the corner to the rectangular roof, pass on the right, step back left onto the face and climb up towards the triangular roof, tending diagonally left to the top. Nice belay off the Protea tree.