An awesome climb! We didn't finish because we left all friends at the break after P6 which was a big mistake. Here are some hopefully helpful information:
I recommend 4 friends (Camlot size between .3 and 1). But as in the description, most of the line is perfectly bolted.
16 quickdraws (15 minimum unless you skip).
Here are my grades when climbing the route without assistance (as far as I could climb it):
P1: 6a+, 3-4 friends recommended (2 bolts only)
P2: 6b, 30m nice slab climbing
P3: 6a, nice slab climbing
P4: first moves 6b, then 6a. A short pitch.
P5: 6a Here I would recommend 1-3 friends in the first 10 meters, otherwise the runout is significant. It is not difficult but even in summer somewhat greasy.
P6: 6c+ one move towards the end over a small roof is hard, the rest is 6a. The crux stays wet after rain. At the end, you have a choice: Either do the sketchy boulder field travers to the left in this pitch. Or do it at the beginning of the P7. There are double bolts for both options available.
I suggest to bring a backpack with some food till here. Here is a cave with awsome view and a place to even take a nap if you like. From here on it will be harder. You can leave the backpack here BUT TAKE ALL FRIENDS WITH YOU!
P7: 7a starts easy but then gets into a short power section followed by a difficult to read crimpy passage towards the end.
P8: 7a Awesome wall with clean rock heading towards the right. Luckily easier than it looks.
P9: 6c A bit tricky on the frist 10m, then it gets easy and then suddenly all bolts disappear! Don't go to the right (there are some distant bolts but that is another route). Go straight(left) and place gear in the easy terrain. This is where we ended our attempt because with out friends this is a 20m runout with severe consequences in case of a fall. With gear it's easy (5a maybe).
An awesome climb! Sadly, couldn't finish flash attempt due to hand injury
I recommend 4 friends (Camlot size between .3 and 1). But as in the description, most of the line is perfectly bolted.
Here are my grades when climbing the route without assistance (as far as I could climb it):
P1: 6a+, 3-4 friends recommended (2 bolts only)
P2: 6b, 30m nice slab climbing
P3: 6a, nice slab climbing
P4: first moves 6b, then 6a. A short pitch.
P5: 6a Here I would recommend 1-3 friends in the first 10 meters, otherwise the runout is significant. It is not difficult but even in summer somewhat greasy.
P6: 6c+ (one move towards the end over a small roof. rest is 6a). At the end, you have a choice: Either do the sketchy boulder field travers to the left in this pitch. Or do it at the beginning of the P7. There are double bolts for both options available.
P7: 7a (starts easy but then gets into a short power section followed by a difficult to read passage towards the end.
Beautiful place for a mega route. Led the easy pitches fine, aided the 7a+7b pitches, pulling on bolts, the style of that was less inspiring than the earlier climbing
I recommend 4 friends (Camlot size between .3 and 1). But as in the description, most of the line is perfectly bolted.
Here are my grades when climbing the route without assistance (as far as I could climb it):
P1: 6a+, 3-4 friends recommended (2 bolts only)
P2: 6b, 30m nice slab climbing
P3: 6a, nice slab climbing
P4: first moves 6b, then 6a. A short pitch.
P5: 6a Here I would recommend 1-3 friends in the first 10 meters, otherwise the runout is significant. It is not difficult but even in summer somewhat greasy.
P6: 6c+ (one move towards the end over a small roof. rest is 6a). At the end, you have a choice: Either do the sketchy boulder field travers to the left in this pitch. Or do it at the beginning of the P7. There are double bolts for both options available.
P7: 7a (starts easy but then gets into a short power section followed by a difficult to read passage towards the end.
I recommend 4 friends (Camlot size between .3 and 1). But as in the description, most of the line is perfectly bolted.
16 quickdraws (15 minimum unless you skip).
Here are my grades when climbing the route without assistance (as far as I could climb it):
P1: 6a+, 3-4 friends recommended (2 bolts only)
P2: 6b, 30m nice slab climbing
P3: 6a, nice slab climbing
P4: first moves 6b, then 6a. A short pitch.
P5: 6a Here I would recommend 1-3 friends in the first 10 meters, otherwise the runout is significant. It is not difficult but even in summer somewhat greasy.
P6: 6c+ one move towards the end over a small roof is hard, the rest is 6a. The crux stays wet after rain. At the end, you have a choice: Either do the sketchy boulder field travers to the left in this pitch. Or do it at the beginning of the P7. There are double bolts for both options available.
I suggest to bring a backpack with some food till here. Here is a cave with awsome view and a place to even take a nap if you like. From here on it will be harder. You can leave the backpack here BUT TAKE ALL FRIENDS WITH YOU!
P7: 7a starts easy but then gets into a short power section followed by a difficult to read crimpy passage towards the end.
P8: 7a Awesome wall with clean rock heading towards the right. Luckily easier than it looks.
P9: 6c A bit tricky on the frist 10m, then it gets easy and then suddenly all bolts disappear! Don't go to the right (there are some distant bolts but that is another route). Go straight(left) and place gear in the easy terrain. This is where we ended our attempt because with out friends this is a 20m runout with severe consequences in case of a fall. With gear it's easy (5a maybe).