| Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 星期六 1st 6月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
| 6b |
★★ Son thoi
| 15m, 4 | | ||||
|
repeat
|
|||||||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
— 3 attempts
| 12m, 4 | ★★ 很好 |  | |||
|
Feel soo close to finishing this, powering out at dynamic move to jug just before anchor. Didn’t mind repeating the lower moves with fun heels and knee bars.
|
|||||||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
— 3 attempts
- with
Amanda
| 12m, 4 | | ||||
|
traverse is no longer an issue (thanks aid pads), but the top definitely still is 😭
|
|||||||
| 星期五 31st 5月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 | | ||||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
- with
Fridolin, Joonoh Lee
| 12m, 4 | ★★★ 经典 |  | |||
|
Awesome flake! Pumpy, with a beautiful sequence at the top!
|
|||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
- with
Fridolin, Joonoh Lee
| 15m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | | |||
|
Slick mantle for a warmup, yikes!
|
|||||||
| 6b |
★ Schlingel Max
- with
Fridolin
| 15m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | | |||
|
Fun moves and faffing around!
|
|||||||
| 6b |
★★ Son thoi
- with
Fridolin
| 15m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | | |||
|
Cool route, slightly easier up the top going left!
|
|||||||
| 6c |
★ No Name
- with
Fridolin
| 15m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | | |||
|
Pumpy! So very slick after rain...
|
|||||||
| 8b+ |
★★ Avocado Power
| 22m, 9 |  | ||||
| 8b+ |
★★★ Of Popes and Power
| 25m, 9 | | ||||
| 星期四 30th 5月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 8c+ |
★★★ Greed
| 30m, 10 | | ||||
| 星期三 29th 5月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 7a+ |
★★ Mai Mee Fahn
| 15m, 5 | ★★ 很好 |  | |||
|
Good to ba back (:
|
|||||||
| 星期二 28th 5月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
| 12m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | | |||
| 6b |
★★ Son thoi
| 15m, 4 | | ||||
| 6b |
★★ Son thoi
| 15m, 4 | | ||||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
| 12m, 4 | ★★★ 超级经典 |  | |||
| 6b |
★★ Son thoi
| 15m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | | |||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
| 12m, 4 | | ||||
|
those feet tho. might come back with the aid pads for a send attempt
|
|||||||
| 星期四 9th 5月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
- with
Alberto Balmaceda, sole
| 12m, 4 |  | ||||
|
The slippery layback was a bit scary for me. It was quite committing to climb.
|
|||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
- with
Alberto Balmaceda
| 15m, 6 | ★ 好 | | |||
|
Warm up
|
|||||||
| 星期三 8th 5月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6b |
★ Schlingel Max
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
| 星期六 4th 5月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 7a+ |
★★ Mai Mee Fahn
| 15m, 5 | ★★ 很好 |  | |||
| 6c |
★★ Good Medicine
| 23m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | | |||
| 星期四 2nd 5月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a ~6a+ |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 | ★★★ 超级经典 |  | |||
| 6a ~6a+ |
★ Schlingal Moritz
— 2 attempts
| 15m, 6 | ★★★ 超级经典 | | |||
| 6c |
★★ Good Medicine
| 23m, 7 | ★★★ 超级经典 | | |||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
- with
Alberto Balmaceda
| 15m, 6 | ★ 好 | | |||
|
One fall at the crux
|
|||||||
| 6b |
★ Schlingel Max
- with
Alberto Balmaceda
| 15m, 6 | ★ 好 | | |||
|
Polished at the crux.
|
|||||||
| 星期三 1st 5月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6c |
★★ Good Medicine
| 23m, 7 | ★★ 很好 |  | |||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 | ★ 好 | | |||
| 6c+ ~7a |
★★★ The Lion King
| 12m, 4 | ★★★ 经典 |  | |||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
- with
Baobao
| 12m, 4 | ★★★ 超级经典 |  | |||
|
Beautiful line ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
|
|||||||
| 星期一 29th 4月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
| 6b |
★★ Son thoi
| 15m, 4 | | ||||
| 星期六 27th 4月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6c+ Hard |
★★★ The Lion King
— 8 attempts
| 12m, 4 | ★★★ 经典 |  | |||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 | ★★★ 超级经典 |  | |||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 | ★★★ 超级经典 | | |||
| 6c |
★★ Good Medicine
| 23m, 7 | ★★ 很好 |  | |||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 | ★ 好 | | |||
| 6b |
★ Schlingel Max
| 15m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | | |||
| 星期五 26th 4月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
| 星期一 22nd 4月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
- with
Silvia Gong
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
| 星期天 21st 4月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
- with
Silvia Gong
| 12m, 4 | | ||||
|
The polish is no joke. Awesome
|
|||||||
| 星期六 20th 4月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 7a+ |
★★★ Wake & Bake
| 16m, 7 |  | ||||
| 星期三 17th 4月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
- with
James Wagner
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
| 6b |
★★ Son thoi
- with
James Wagner
| 15m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | | |||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
- with
Silvia Gong
| 15m, 6 | | ||||
|
No tex - awesome
|
|||||||
| 6b |
★★ Son thoi
- with
Silvia Gong
| 15m, 4 | | ||||
| 星期二 16th 4月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6c |
★ No Name
| 15m, 5 | | ||||
| 6b+ |
★★ The Sit Spins
- with
Kratik W
| 20m, 8 | ★★ 很好 |  | |||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
- with
Pat Higgins
| 15m, 6 | ★ 好 | | |||
| 7a+ |
★★ Reminiscence
- with
Rainnie
| 28m, 8 |  | ||||
|
2 take
|
|||||||
| 7a+ |
★★ Reminiscence
- with
Pingpong (Danu Onkaew)
| 28m, 8 |  | ||||
| 6b+ |
★★ The Sit Spins
- with
Rainnie
| 20m, 8 | | ||||
|
Repeat for warm up
|
|||||||
| 星期天 14th 4月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
| 星期五 12th 4月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6b+ |
★★ The Sit Spins
- with
Bibiana Velloso
| 20m, 8 | ★★ 很好 |  | |||
| 星期六 6th 4月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6b |
★ Schlingel Max
- with
sarah
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
|
痛失红线/越爬越差/忘beta/甲米最大挫败/恩怨线/耻辱/王赛海鲜城/酒精与科学。犹记得去年我爬这个线手抠不住，指洞用不了，在巨大的恐惧下入绳都入反了，让保护员阿黄老师在太阳下面晒了40分钟，她虽然嘴上不说，心里必腹诽我。
仇线相见分外眼红，我挂线的时候行云流水，很纳闷上次那么难是为什么。crux我直接跳抓结果冲了一次，换了个beta秒成功。我顺利做顶下降休息，心想带挂都这么顺，再来一把简直稳如老狗。我把照相机架好准备迎接辉煌的红线。前面照例很顺利，结果还没到难点的时候，突然就动不了了，我在那里艰难的扭动，但是就是腾不出手挂挂，硬扛了一会儿之后耻辱take。沙拉老师在下面一头问号，我也一样一头问号。我摸了半天之后发现左手点不对，虽然看起来俩slope没有区别，但是事实上只有一个能对抗住，我第一次爬的顺纯属运气好。太阳晒过来，时间不够了，我清顶收挂下降，垂泪无语。 我心想我攀岩两载有余，默默地付出了这么多的努力居然仍然红不了10c，羞愤难当，当即决定投海自尽，当我解下易被海水腐蚀的龟龟准备投海的时候发现我在昨晚突然学会了自由泳。话说昨晚我们的长尾船不但掏了高价，而且船夫为了拉别的客，居然不送我们去奥南海岸，而是要送我们到一个王赛海鲜城的地方。事后证明这个海鲜城意外的不错，本地人超多，我们吃了一堆三文鱼和大螃蟹之类的东西，还点了一瓶威士忌，只花了200人民币左右。我喝掉了半瓶威士忌之后的记忆丢失了，回过神之后我已经跳进了游泳池里。本来我自由泳游几下之后就有点浑身发紧，但喝了酒之后感觉身体很柔软，在水里呆着非常自如，莫名其妙的学会了晃膀子的动作。我又想到我和xx和xx进行过的科学之争，对方声嘶力竭的说：这都是科学证明过的，有什么好争辩的？它们厉害，我说不过，但我心想所谓科学就是这么一种东西，人类喝酒喝了一千多年，科学最近几十年跳出来说喝酒有害健康，因为喝酒会让某种物质变多，某种物质变多又会导致癌症；但是过了几年，科学又会发现酒精的促炎指数为负，又发现酒精能降皮质醇，到时候又要变化。科学真累。总之我学会了晃膀子自由泳。 |
|||||||
| 6b |
★ Schlingel Max
- with
marvin
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
| 12m, 4 |  | ||||
| 7b Hard |
★★ The Tiger Queen
| 12m, 4 | | ||||
| 星期五 5th 4月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
- with
marvin
| 15m, 6 | | ||||
|
正午 被太阳追着爬 有种汗蒸房里攀岩的感觉
|
|||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
- with
sarah
| 15m, 6 | | ||||
|
两把红线/cuan死我了。这条线居然没有年度on简直让我不能接受，更不能接受的是我红了之后发现之前已经红过了。我去年觉得有三个难点，真的好难，在有树那个地方墨迹了很久。今年有俩难点已经不是难点了，加上和潘佬熟了之后近朱者赤，看见树就先踩一脚，谁知道那个树看似碗口般粗壮，实则宛如练过瑜伽，柔软无比根本踩不了，挂脚挂在树上可能可以，但我毕竟不是潘佬，干不出这种事来，遂take。我觉得甲米的线手脚点很近，又仰，cuan死我了。
|
|||||||
| 6c |
★ No Name
- with
sarah
| 15m, 5 | | ||||
|
早在出发甲米之前，雄心壮志的我就在crag上疯狂标记线路，力图on一些11，如果能红一些12就更好了，13虽然爬不了，但有一众好手在，我摸摸还不让摸吗？我逐渐陷入癫狂，如同我妈进入菜市场，碰到什么玩意儿都想买点儿。这条景色好，那条大点大仰角，那条居然是石灰岩少有的slab，都想爬，少哪条都不行。我在做这些事的时候沙拉老师也不说话，只是忧心忡忡的看着我，后来我觉得这种表情应该是希望我尽快迷途知返，但又不好意思直接说。再后来我看到这个表情就会问她whatsup，以至于有时候本来没事我在那问来问去，像有病一样。
飞机落地了之后我突然醒悟，想起来要看看岩场的接近日晒以及蚊子情况了，遂草草选了几个能去的地儿，把90%的线排除了。之前的宏大计划俩人也很默契的不再提起。 第一个攀爬日我们很合理的睡到了10点多才出门，坐船来到通赛的时候已经12点左右了。这时6a6b上已经挂上了绳，一问又都不给爬。我心想我就拿这个6c热身了，区区11b，我基本上也就两三把的事儿。我经历了一个抱石难点之后挂了第一把挂，点是挺大的，但为了抓jug我把自己憋在了屋檐下面，头一直在创屋檐，一进二的时候又不得要领，掉的时候又总是踹到保护员，过于费保护员。搞了三四次之后无奈下降，心中充满了不服。我后来反思，岩馆的线路很少给那种看上去很好，但是会把人姿态带偏的误导性jug，但野攀就有很多这种点，如果我是定线员，一定定出一些误导线，要是中了我的套路就只能乖乖下来重新爬。 |
|||||||
| 6a ~6a+ |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
| 星期天 31st 3月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6c |
★★ Good Medicine
- with
Kenneth Lau
| 23m, 7 | ★★ 很好 |  | |||
|
Tip: (stop reading if you dont need any beta srpay)
I tired the route just to help my friend to clean the draws hahas After the right pinch, there's is an pocket on the leave for your right hand to hold to make a bigger move to the left Jug on top. |
|||||||
| 7a+ |
★★ Reminiscence
- with
Kenneth Lau
| 28m, 8 | ★★ 很好 | | |||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
| 12m, 4 |  | ||||
| 6c |
★★ Good Medicine
| 23m, 7 | | ||||
| 6b |
★★ Son thoi
| 15m, 4 | | ||||
| 星期六 30th 3月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
- with
Tan_yongwei
| 15m, 6 | ★ 好 |  | |||
|
The rock is more polished than the last time I attempted it. Nice crux.
|
|||||||
| 6c |
★ No Name
| 15m, 5 |  | ||||
| 星期一 25th 3月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
| 12m, 4 |  | ||||
| 6b |
★ Schlingel Max
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
| 7a+ |
★★ Reminiscence
| 28m, 8 | ★★ 很好 |  | |||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
| 12m, 4 | ★★★ 经典 | | |||
| 星期天 24th 3月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingel moritz
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
| 6c ~6c+ |
★★ Good Medicine
| 23m, 7 | | ||||
|
Cruxy
|
|||||||
| 6c |
★ No Name
| 15m, 5 |  | ||||
|
9th day on. got absolutely destroyed by the first couple moves. a hard onsight if you don’t know where the holds are.
|
|||||||
| 6a ~6a+ |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 | | ||||
| 7a+ |
★★ Reminiscence
| 28m, 8 | ★★★ 超级经典 |  | |||
|
My favorite climb of my trip to Tonsai
|
|||||||
| 星期六 23rd 3月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
- with
Angela Ha
| 12m, 4 | | ||||
|
felt more doable than the last attempt at midnight. found a nice new sequence for the end! LF heel hook match LH, then throw LH to megajug. or just deadpoint the RH with high feet.
|
|||||||
| 6a ~6a+ |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 | | ||||
| 星期三 20th 3月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6b |
★ Schlingel Max
- with
Sofia Rennerståhl, Tobias Hamer
| 15m, 6 | ★★ 很好 |  | |||
| 星期二 19th 3月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6b+ |
★★ The Sit Spins
| 20m, 8 | | ||||
|
real climb starts after the traverse. happy with trying hard on this sustained route. very run out near the top, just push through with the layback
|
|||||||
| 7a+ |
★★ Reminiscence
| 28m, 8 | ★★★ 经典 |  | |||
| 星期一 18th 3月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a ~6a+ |
★ Schlingal Moritz
- with
Cuong
| 15m, 6 | | ||||
|
one desperate move near the palm tree
|
|||||||
| 6b |
★ Schlingel Max
- with
Cuong
| 15m, 6 | | ||||
|
cool techy crux on a slab of polished rock
|
|||||||
| 6a |
★ Schlingal Moritz
- with
linna, aliciarocks, andi, ilia
| 15m, 6 |  | ||||
|
That mantle next to that loose palm tree is weird, better to just go for that nice jug above the draw if you know that its there
|
|||||||
| 6b |
★ Schlingel Max
- with
linna, aliciarocks, andi, ilia
| 15m, 6 | ★ 好 | | |||
|
Really nice crux move before the anchor, thanks fir the beta linna
|
|||||||
| 星期天 17th 3月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 6a Hard |
★ Schlingal Moritz
| 15m, 6 | ★★ 很好 |  | |||
| 星期六 16th 3月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 7b |
★★ The Tiger Queen
| 12m, 4 |  | ||||
| 6c |
★★ Good Medicine
| 23m, 7 |  | ||||
| 星期五 15th 3月 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
| 7a |
★★ Don Quijote de la Mancha
| 15m, 5 | | ||||
| 6c+ |
★★★ The Lion King
| 12m, 4 | | ||||
| 6b |
★ Schlingel Max
| 15m, 6 | | ||||
| 7b |
★★ The Tiger Queen
| 12m, 4 |  | ||||
| 7a |
★★ Don Quijote de la Mancha
— 2 attempts
| 15m, 5 | | ||||
| 7a+ |
★★★ Wake & Bake
| 16m, 7 | | ||||