A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Creag Dubh
78 in Crag
- 1.1. Bedtime Buttress 38 routes in Sector
- 1.2. Waterfall Wall 7 routes in Sector
- 1.3. Great Wall 20 routes in Sector
- 1.4. Lower Central Wall 3 routes in Sector
- 1.5. Lower Right Wall 4 routes in Sector
- 1.6. Sprawl Wall 6 routes in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Creag Dubh
- Summary:
-
所有 传统攀登
Lat / Long: 57.034203, -4.190717
总结
Creag Dubh is one of Scotland's biggest and finest 'roadside' crag.
描述
The schist with horizontal strata offers some wonderfully steep routes on big holds. Many of these routes are up to 3 pitches and can be intimidating, as they are very exposed and protection may be spaced.
The crag faces south and dries quickly, but weeps. Generally the rock is sound but sometimes blocky.
Creag Dubh is not a good choice for the beginner as there is little below Severe. However, from VS upwards the routes are good and the choice increases with the grade.
The midges can be dreadful during still days, and ticks abound in the bracken.
前往
Use the layby at (
57.033523, -4.187478) and be sure to leave space for as many vehicles as possible.
Walk up the way, left or right depending on which sector you're climbing on.
历史
It is worth noting that the SMC refused to publish outcrop routes until the 1970's despite this being a major crag.
1.1. Bedtime Buttress
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 57.033806, -4.194546
描述
Short, hard and safe routes.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Upper Tier | ||||||||
| 2 | Unlawful Behaviour | E2 5b | ||||||
| 3 | Jailbreak | E3 5c | ||||||
| 4 | Redwings | E4 6a | 20m | |||||
| 5 | ★ The Vainglorious | E2 5c | 20m | |||||
| 6 | ★ First Offence | E4 5c | 20m | |||||
| 7 | ★★★ Zen | E5 6a | 20m | |||||
| 8 | The Atom Delight | E4 6a | 18m | |||||
| 9 | The Art Relaxation | E4 6a | ||||||
| 10 | Case Dismissed | E3 6a | ||||||
| 11 | ★★★ Case Dismissed Direct Finish | E4 6a | 25m | |||||
| 12 | Cadillac | E4 6a | 25m | |||||
| 13 | Coda | E2 5b | 8m | |||||
| 14 | Cabriolet | E4 5c | 8m | |||||
| 15 | Ca va? | E3 5c | 9m | |||||
| 16 | C'est la Vie | E3 5c | ||||||
| 17 | Hands Off | E2 5c | ||||||
| 18 | Carte Blanch | E2 5c | ||||||
| 19 | Legover | E2 5c | ||||||
| 20 | Subjugation | E4 6a | ||||||
| 21 | Galaxy | E4 6a | ||||||
| 22 | ★★★ Ruff Licks | E3 5c | 20m | |||||
| 23 | ★★ These Days | E5 6b | 18m | |||||
| 24 | Twenty Years from Now | E5 6b | 18m | |||||
| 25 | Apathizer | E5 6b | ||||||
| 26 | Aye | E7 6b | 18m | |||||
| 27 | Ayatollah | E4 6a | ||||||
| 28 | ★★ Muph Dive | E2 5c | 18m | |||||
| 29 | Tyranny | E3 5c | 24m | |||||
| 30 | ★★ Muffin The Mule (Left Start) | E1 5b | ||||||
| 31 | ★★ Muffin The Mule | E1 5c | ||||||
| 32 | Disaffection | E2 5c | 24m | |||||
| 33 | ★★ Down Town After Lunch | HVS 5a | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||||
| 35 | Cuckold | E2 5b | ||||||
| 36 | ★★ Most Girls Do | E1 5a | 25m | |||||
| 37 | Sylvia | E2 5b | 25m | |||||
| 38 | ★★ Porn | E1 5a | 30m | |||||
| 39 | Gham | VS 4c | 90m, 3 | |||||
| 40 | Phoenicurus | E2 5c | ||||||
1.2. Waterfall Wall
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 57.034099, -4.193139
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Pattern of Violence | E2 5b | ||||
| 2 | ★ Take Three | E2 5b | ||||
| 3 | ★★★ Wet Dreams | E2 5c | 35m | |||
| 4 | ★★★ Acapulco | E4 6a | ||||
| 5 | ★ Tip Off | VS 4c | ||||
| 6 | ★ Acrobat | HVS 5a | ||||
| 7 | ★★ Smirnoff | E1 5a | 40m | |||
1.3. Great Wall
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 57.034449, -4.190586
描述
Steep, bold climbing on perfect rock.
前往
Take the path that leads left and up. When the path becomes faint, keep left near the old fence (rusted wires on the ground), and keep going up to the bent birch tree.
下撤信息
Most descents are possible with2 2x 50m ropes. Either abseil a full length to the ground or make 2 abseils when required. Some routes will end at bolted anchors, others will end at a tree with tat.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | King Bee | VS 5a | ||||
| 2 | ★ King Bee Direct | HVS 5a | 50m | |||
| 3 | Nutcracker Chimney | VS 4b | ||||
| 4 | Erse | E4 5c | ||||
| 5 | ★ Jump for Joy | E2 6a | 57m, 2 | |||
| 6 |
★★ Jump for Joy (Roof Super Direct
P1) climb the route normally. P2) When reaching the roof, move about a meter left of the undercling-slots and climb the roof direct on the apex. BETA: lean out to find small crimps above the lip, prepare, and jump out left to a sloppy jug. Find what to do with your feet, match hands and rock-over/mantle to position yourself on a small niche. Climb a bit more easily and find pro. Possibly a one move wonder E3 6a. | E2 6a | 57m, 2 | |||
| 7 | ★ Brute | VS 5a | 45m, 2 | |||
| 8 | L.M.F. | E1 5b | ||||
| 9 | Suckmaboaby | E1 5b | 33m | |||
| 10 | Fou Rire | E3 6a | ||||
| 11 | Organ Grinder | E1 5b | ||||
| 12 | Outspan | E2 5b | 40m | |||
| 13 | ★★★ The Fuhrer | E4 5c | ||||
| 14 | ★★ Colder than a Hooker's Heart | E5 5c | 45m | |||
| 15 | ★★★ The Final Solution | E5 6a | ||||
| 16 | ★★★ The Hill | E2 5b | 40m | |||
| 17 | Over the Hill | E3 5c | ||||
| 18 | ★★★ Inbred | HVS 5a | 60m, 2 | |||
| 19 | ★★ Inbred Direct Finish | E1 5b | 50m | |||
| 20 | Strapadicktaemi | E1 5a | ||||
1.4. Lower Central Wall
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Sector
描述
Mostly single pitch routes.
前往
Either approach by walking right (looking in) from Great Wall, or by walking left from Sprawl Wall
下撤信息
Abseil from trees.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Ticket to Ride | E3 5b | ||||
| 2 | Phellatio | HVS 5a | ||||
| 3 | Fiorella | HVS 4c | ||||
1.5. Lower Right Wall
- Summary:
-
描述
Short single pitch routes with good protection.
前往
Next to Lower Central Wall. From the car park, take the path on the right and follow it up to the boulder field. Scramble the boulders to the wall.
下撤信息
By abseil from anchors or trees.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Goutes d' Eau | E2 5b | 25m | |||
| 2 | Just in Thyme | E1 5b | 40m | |||
| 3 | Man on Fire | E1 5b | 20m | |||
| 4 | The Sting | E1 5a | 25m | |||
1.6. Sprawl Wall
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Instant Lemon | E3 5c | ||||
| 2 | ★★★ Jump So High Direct | E2 5c | 35m | |||
| 3 | Separation | E2 5b | ||||
| 4 | Conclusions | E2 5c | ||||
| 5 | Jump So High | E1 5b | ||||
| 6 | Tree Hee | HS 4a | ||||
