Ogwen Valley Area Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Ogwen Valley Area 1,140 routes in Area

1 3 6 30 15 27 19 24 18 7 26 28 2 5 23 12 29 16 31 17 9 21

1 Bethesda Area 2 Bochlwyd Buttress 3 Carneddau Area 5 Clogwyn y Tarw 6 Crafnant 7 Caseg Fraith 9 Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr 12 Cwm Cneifion 15 Idwal Cottage Crag 16 Idwal Slabs and Walls 17 Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder 18 Milestone Buttress 19 Milestone Buttress Boulders 21 RAC Boulders 23 Tryfan 24 Tryfan Fach 26 Gallt yr Ogof 27 Clogwyn Mannod 28 Clogwyn Mawr and Castell y Gwynt 29 Craig Eithin (Waen Hir Slab) 30 Craig Bwlch-yr-haearn 31 Craig Cae Huddygl

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

季节分布

传统攀登, Bouldering 和 其它类型

Lat / Long: 53.141227, -3.950548

1.1. Bethesda Area 53 routes in Field

4 2 1 3

1 Braichmelyn Boulder 2 Afon Caseg Gorge 3 The Ogwen Bank Boulder 4 Caseg Boulders

Summary:

所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.174359, -4.047204

描述

Area encompassing the various boulders in and around Bethesda.

1.1.1. Braichmelyn Boulder 13 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.174533, -4.048354

描述

Just outside of bethesda a single boulder in the trees at Braichmelyn, sometimes refered to as the Bethesda super boulder.

前往

After passing the 30mph signs as you approach Bethesda from Ogwen, take the first turning to the right at the cross roads. Drive over the bridge, taking the immediate left turn that follows. Park here. Walk back over the bridge, cross the road and follow the footpath for 2 minutes.

隐藏 编辑 在线路图中添加 管理线路图 链接到此路线图 Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Traverse Full low traverse of the boulder from left to right finishing up Braichmelyn Arete.	{FB} 7B	攀石
2		The Ramp From the left hand side of the boulder follow the obvious rightward trending rampline.	{FB} 5+	攀石
3		Super Star Start as for The Ramp but break out left on 2 crimps and rockover to the left arete. 首攀: Dave Noden, 2006	{FB} 7A+	攀石
4		Shooting Star Start as for The Ramp but go straight up on crimps before breaking right near the top. 首攀: Calum Muskett, 2011	{FB} 7A+	攀石
5		The Crack Follow the very thin crack line.	{FB} 7A	攀石
6		Klimov The wall just to the right of The Crack.	{FB} 7A	攀石
7		Central Wall Classic V5 on thin crimps trending left into The Ramp.	{FB} 6C	攀石
8		Central Wall Sit The obvious sit start to Central Wall.	{FB} 7A	攀石
9		Spring Juice Starting from the same start as Central Wall climb the wall left of the arête.	{FB} 7A+	攀石
10		Bonjour Mademoiselle Start as for Brachmelyn Arete Sit finishing up Spring Juice. 首攀: Calum Muskett, 2011	{FB} 7B	攀石
11		Braichmelyn Arete The arete on the right side of the boulder taken from the left side. The tree branch at the top can be used to top out!	{FB} 5	攀石
12		Braichmelyn Arete Sit The sit start to Braichmelyn Arete.	{FB} 7A	攀石
13		Au Revoir Cont From the sit start of Braichmelyn Arete reach out left on crimps into Central Wall. 首攀: Ioan Doyle, 2007	{FB} 7A+	攀石

1.1.2. Afon Caseg Gorge 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.175009, -4.047911

描述

A small boulder not far from the Braichmelyn Boulder.

前往

Approach as for Braichmelyn Boulder but as you enter the woods after the last house at the end of the side street follow the path off to the left until you find the gully on your left.

1.1.3. The Ogwen Bank Boulder 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.166958, -4.052032

描述

A small roadside boulder on the A5.

前往

Park up at the lay-by at Ogwn Bank, start walking up the road, climb over the gate on the right, follow the edge of the field to the left for a short distance, the boulder will be on your left(it's below the the third eshelon on the corner on the A5).

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Refuge Collection From a sit start to the left of The Ogwen Bank Robber climb the short wall avoiding the cracks on either side. Start with a match on the low hold and feet on the undercut wall, snatch up for the better hold above and mantle. 首攀: Phil Targett, 2011	{FB} 5	攀石
隐藏 编辑 在线路图中添加 管理线路图 链接到此路线图 Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
2		The Ogwen Bank Robber Low traverse of the boulder from left to right starting on good hold on the right rib, turn the arete using an awkward, hidden, low foothold finishing up Spider Crack. 首攀: Phil Targett, 2010	{FB} 6C	攀石
3		Get Some Slap On Sit start at the arete, right hand on side pull, left on fat triangular pinch, slap up with the left then go right to the obvious lay away. 首攀: Phil Targett, 2011	{FB} 6A	攀石
4		Rob Da Bank From a sit start, climb the diagonal right to left crack. 首攀: Phil Targett, 2010	{FB} 5+	攀石
5		The missing Line With a sit down start climb the wall between Rob Da Bank and Spider Crack. Start left hand crimp at head hight and right hand crimp, move up to sidepull onto sloper and throght poket to the top. Avoid using block and arete on the right, also avoiding the split block at the bottom of the crack for feet. 首攀: Jason Jones, 2011	{FB} 6A	攀石
6		Spider Crack Climb the large crack up the middle of the boulder. 首攀: Phil Targett, 2010	{FB} 4+	攀石
7		Tavistock Square Sit down start to the right of Spider Crack. Start with the left hand on the right arete of Spider Crack and right hand on finger flake, use the arete before moving out right for the top. 首攀: Phil Targett, 2010	{FB} 7A	攀石
8		Grave Digger Stand start to the right of Tavistock Square, gain the jug from small edges then slap up the flack with the right hand. 首攀: Phil Targett, 2010	{FB} 6A	攀石
9		Give it some Umph Climb the right arete on its left side from a sit down start avoiding the protruding block. Start with a small side pull for the right and a high edge for the left. 首攀: Phil Targett, 2011	{FB} 6B	攀石

1.1.4. Caseg Boulders 24 routes in Field

2 1

1 Lower Caseg Boulder 2 Upper Caseg Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.178118, -4.015166

描述

Two large riverside boulders.

前往

Park at Gerlan, follow Ffordd Gerlan uphill, turning left onto Cil Twllan, after the road turns to track there's a sharp bend to the left, on the bend there are 2 gates, climb over the second one, follow the right edge of the field to a small gate leading into the trees, follow the river until you see the lower boulder, find somewhere to cross the river, the upper boulder is a little further upstream.

1.1.4.1. Lower Caseg Boulder 13 routes in Boulder

Summary:

所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.178111, -4.015301

描述

The first boulder you come to, from across the river you'll be able to see the classic Caseg Groove.

前往

Find a safe place to cross the river.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		NWB P9	{FB} 4	攀石
隐藏 编辑 在线路图中添加 管理线路图 链接到此路线图 Hide 隐藏 编辑 在线路图中添加 管理线路图 链接到此路线图 Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
2		NWB P10	{FB} 4	攀石
3		NWB P11 From a hanging start on the left arete traverse right finishing up NWB P10 avoiding all holds on the top of the boulder as you traverse.	{FB} 6B	攀石
4		NWB P12 Tussle up the hanging prow.	{FB} 5+	攀石
5		The Gimp To the right of Mein Vein, poor feet and small crimps mark the way up the bulging wall.	{FB} 7B	攀石
6		Mein Vein The slopey line to the right of Caseg Groove.	{FB} 7C+	攀石
7		Caseg Groove On the side of the boulder facing the river climb the obvious groove.	{FB} 6C	攀石
8		Caseg Groove Sit Sit start to Caseg Groove.	{FB} 8A	攀石
9		NWB P16	{FB} 7A+	攀石
10		Don't Think, Drink Start just left of Don't think..feel on a lefthand crimp and righthand pinch/sidepull. Slap to a crimp then finish up right on better holds.	{FB} 7A+	攀石
11		Don't Think, Feel Tackle the burly hanging prow from a sit down start past 2 fat frictiony pinches leading to a wild slap up left.	{FB} 7B+	攀石
12		On The Wagon Sit start with feet on block under the main boulder with left hand on good pinch. Pull up into an undercut with right hand and slap into the groove with left hand. Sketchy move to the slopey lip, then slap to good hold. Top out directly (a bit mossy), or traverse off left into the top of Don’t Think, Feel.	{FB} 7A+	攀石
13		NWB P18 Start off two crimps above the adjacent boulder, moving past another crimp to good holds on the arete.	{FB} 7A+	攀石

1.1.4.2. Upper Caseg Boulder 11 routes in Boulder

Summary:

所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.178122, -4.015087

描述

The second boulder you'll come to.

前往

From the lower boulder follow the river upstream.

1.2. Bochlwyd Buttress 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 53.117927, -4.008718

总结

Sever to E2 5b. Good range of varied multinpitch climbing.

描述

Great crag for begginners and expirenced climbers. Shaded in the mornings for those hot days.

前往

Park in the ogwen, follow paths up towards llyn bochlwyd. When the path begins to steepen and follows a river the crag is on your left.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Wall Climb 首攀: F E Hicks, C V A Cooper & W E Woosnam Jones , 26 9月	HS	传统攀登 46m
2		★★ Bochlwyd Eliminate	HVS 5a	传统攀登 37m
隐藏 编辑 在线路图中添加 管理线路图 链接到此路线图 Hide 隐藏 编辑 在线路图中添加 管理线路图 链接到此路线图 Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
3		The Wrack Easy start up to a steep groove. Climb to a undercut crack, jam right and follow to a virtual crack to a ledge. Tale the groove to the finish on the slab above.	E2 5b	传统攀登 45m
4		★★ Chimney Climb (Direct Start) Either start at the bottom of the Chimney (direct) or to the right of the giant flake. Climb until you sling the top of this flake for your first belay. Then move out continuing up the Chimney, avoid when wet as it becomes much harder. Continue to the top.	HS 4b	传统攀登 30m, 2
5		★ One Pitch Route	VS 4c	传统攀登 30m
6		Two pitch route 25m. Climb upward to the right of the Chimney. Onto a small flake following crack lines to a small ledge big enough for 2.belay here. 20m. Traverse left over broken rock to then take the easier route up.	S	传统攀登 45m, 2
7		Five pitch route Best climbed from the top of pitch 1 to 3 to 5. 7m. up the small slab. 4b.9m. Climb into the slot, with good gear bridge up, left and out to small belay. 9m. Climb up onto a good obvious ledge to belay. 10m zig left across easy ground the zag right up onto the ledge before the slab/buldge. Belay here. 10m. Climb straight up over the buldge until the top.	S 4b	传统攀登

1.3. Carneddau Area 522 routes in Crag

22 23 26 21 20 6 19 1 15 18 2 14 12 13 11 17 5 16 4 10 25 24 9 3 7 8

1 Llech Ddu 2 Ysgolion Duon 3 Craig Braich Ty Ddu 4 Craig Lloer 5 Carreg Mianog 6 Craig yr Ysfa 7 Craig Braich Ty Du (Pen yr Ole Wen) 8 Lakeside Boulders 9 Lily Savage boulders 10 Craig Lloer 11 Craig Ddaear (Crag of the Earth) 12 The Sheep Pen 13 The Burley Boulder 14 Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders) 15 Llech Ddu (Black Slab) 16 Carreg Mianog 17 Booze Fighter's Buttress 18 Craig Yr Ogof (Cliff of the Cave) 19 Craig Yr Ysfa 20 Craig Bwthyn Eigiau 21 Eigiau slab 22 Crag DB 23 Craig Y Dulyn 24 Carreg-ar-y-rhos 25 Carreg Mianog Boulders 26 Dulyn Bothy bouldering

Summary:

传统攀登 和 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.151427, -3.963103

1.3.1. Llech Ddu 0 routes in Crag

1.3.2. Ysgolion Duon 0 routes in Crag

1.3.3. Craig Braich Ty Ddu 1 route in Crag

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 53.127451, -4.016244

1.3.3.1. Ogwen Pinnacle 0 routes in Crag

1.3.3.2. Buttress 1 0 routes in Crag

1.3.3.3. Buttress 2 0 routes in Crag

1.3.3.4. Buttress 3 0 routes in Crag

1.3.3.5. Buttress 4 0 routes in Crag

1.3.3.6. Buttress 5 1 route in Crag

Summary:

1.3.3.7. Buttress 6 0 routes in Crag

1.3.3.8. Buttress 7 0 routes in Crag

1.3.3.9. Buttress 8 0 routes in Crag

1.3.3.10. Buttress 9 0 routes in Crag

1.3.3.11. Boulders 0 routes in Crag

1.3.4. Craig Lloer 0 routes in Crag

1.3.5. Carreg Mianog 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 53.138322, -3.964120

1.3.6. Craig yr Ysfa 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 53.156221, -3.956718

总结

A classic mountain crag with great views.

描述

The crag consists of many heathery ledges. Most of the climbing is between two gullies. The right hand gully defines the epic 'Great Gully' route and the left hand gully the 'Amphitheatre Buttress' and epic route of the same name.

前往

Located on the eastern face of Carnedd Llewelyn at the western end of the Cwm Eigiau valley. The normal approach is from the south via the Ffynnon Llugwy reservoir. From the A5 opposite the Gwern Gôf Isaf campsite take the access road leading to this reservoir and then follow a path going around the right side of it. This path then switch backs up to the pass between Craig yr Ysfa on the left and Pen yr Helgi Du on the right. For routes from the bottom of the crag cross over to the other side of the pass and then descend diagonally on a steep and loosely defined trail which as well as being quite vegetated in places is also rocky so take care!

1.3.7. Craig Braich Ty Du (Pen yr Ole Wen) 43 routes in Crag

8

8 Boulders

Summary:

Bouldering 和 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 53.125819, -4.019080

1.3.7.1. Ogwen Pinacle 1 route in Sector

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

1.3.7.2. Buttress 2 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

1.3.7.3. Buttress 4 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

1.3.7.4. Buttress 6 1 route in Sector

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

1.3.7.5. Buttress 7 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

1.3.7.6. Buttress 8 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

1.3.7.7. Buttress 9 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

1.3.7.8. Boulders 23 routes in Sector

Summary:

所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.124207, -4.018595

1.3.8. Lakeside Boulders 47 routes in Crag

Summary:

所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.125548, -4.005346

1.3.9. Lily Savage boulders 54 routes in Crag

Summary:

所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.131187, -4.000142

1.3.9.1. Lily Savage 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.9.2. Academy Award Wall 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.9.3. Drag Queen Roof 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.9.4. Bear Claw Wall 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.9.5. Enter The Wu-Tang Roof 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.9.6. N.W. State Of Mind 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.10. Craig Lloer 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 53.137191, -4.001809

1.3.10.1. Summer Rock Climbs 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.10.2. Summer Scrambles 0 routes in Sector

1.3.11. Craig Ddaear (Crag of the Earth) 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 53.140451, -4.004782

1.3.12. The Sheep Pen 91 routes in Crag

7 6 5 3 2

2 First Block 3 The Turtle 5 A-Frame Block 6 Main Block 7 Pinch Block

Summary:

所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.141067, -4.026427

1.3.12.1. Huffys Bloc 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.12.2. First Block 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.140411, -4.026698

1.3.12.3. The Turtle 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.140809, -4.026581

1.3.12.4. Klem's Bluge 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.12.5. A-Frame Block 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.141392, -4.026163

1.3.12.6. Main Block 25 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.141586, -4.026284

1.3.12.7. Pinch Block 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.141782, -4.027104

1.3.12.8. Terrapin Block 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.12.9. Diggingest Dog 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.12.10. Unsorted 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.13. The Burley Boulder 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.140600, -4.029061