★★★ Shaken Not Stirred WI5 M5/6 V

While slightly harder than Ham And Eggs, this route tends to hold higher quality ice due to being more shaded, and you get to get away from the crowds.

Note, however, that if you are climbing behind other parties, the upper pitches through "The Narrows" offer no reprieve from falling ice for both leader and belayer, and even snow from parties on the col will be funnelled down hundreds of meters.

In good conditions, the entire crux is a slightly overhanging curtain of ice. In leaner years there may be almost no ice, however the mixed climbing is well protected.

Rap on plentiful rock anchors. A 70m rope will hit bullseye more often than a 60m. Do not rap the first 2-3 pitches due to poor pro, instead move climbers right and rap from a chockstone over the rocky buttress.