A classic! Pitch 4 is the money pitch, with a superb moderate crack way up in the sky.
The best way to do this route is to link 'Gemini Cracks Direct Start' into P2 of 'Gemini Cracks' into 'Gemini Cracks Variant P3' into P4 of 'Gemini Cracks', then rappel from there.
40m 5.0. Up a non-descript V-chute to a small ledge with trees (natural anchor). Watch out for poison oak.
20m 5.8 A0 / 5.10c. Nice corner and crack up rock scar to roof. Pull on a #4 cam to get into offwidth trench, then easily past small tree to double bolt hanging belay (with slings and a rap ring).
40m 5.7. Continue up the crack to a pod (button head just above - possible to belay here), then follow the nice discontinuous cracks right to a hanging belay on chains.
30m 5.8. The pitch you came for! Up the awesome twin splitter cracks (mostly climbing the left hand one) to a chain belay. Most people descend from here, as P5 isn't worth doing and descending from the top of the dome is more difficult.
30m 5.4. Move right along crack to tree then easily up crack system. 4th class except for one move near the top (stay roped up).
Rappel descent is down 'Smoke Screen' - double ropes are required and 2x60m ropes are recommended (can descend in 2 long rappels with double 60s).
