线路 in Northern California for selected grade

8 or 9 bolts. Shares top anchor with Crank Whore.

Bolted top anchor is suspect.

Climb overhanging splitter crack on arête, which is at the opening of the Grotto, for 40'. Then turn corner onto lower angle side and meander up face with tricky gear placements for another 60'. Pro to 4".

Pro from micro nuts to 2".

Pro to 0.5".

Pro to 2".

1. 100' (5.6)

2. 100' (5.12a) 4 bolts. Pro to 1".

3. 200' (5.11) 4 bolts. Pro to 4".

4. ?

5. ?

6. ?

7. Project

Most recent progress: http://drewsplan.blogspot.com/2013/05/castle-crags-ca-dreamer-on-becks-tower.html

6 bolts, plus a couple of fixed pitons.

3-bolt top anchor. Small pro.

2-bolt top anchor. Clip the top anchor for 'Tongue Twister'[] after the 4th bolt and keep heading up.

Traverse the entire base of Flat Top Rock.

Variation to Assembly Line.

Usually left to right; also done right to left.

Sit start.

Sit start.

Cave start to She's Got Jugs.

2 bolt top anchor.

Bolted top anchor.

2 bolt top anchor. Stainless steel glue-ins.

2 bolt top anchor

2 bolt top anchor.

Traverse in from the right on thin horizontal pockets, then up and left above the overhang. The position of the submerged log changes with every season. As of 2014, it's in the fall zone.

Start on Backflop, then traverse right to the middle of the cave. From here, head straight up and over the bulge to the top. Falls are clean, despite the name.

What a gem! Step into the boiling pit above the lower falls, and swim to the first hold. Find the undercling at the waterline, move up the rail, and then fire up for the jug. Top out on more jugs. This problem comes with a host of objective hazards. The flow must be low, or you will get swept over the falls. The water in the pit is deep, but it may not be uniformly deep, so check first. Certainly, you would not want to fall while topping out. Be careful!

#SD