攀登 in Sierra Nevada having 攀爬攻略

J and I were the only ones stupid enough to crag here in the sun during a heatwave so we had the crag to ourselves. That was until J was halfway up the finger crack and a shirtless fella stumbled out of the trees asking what the climbs here were. Proceeded to lay on a rock beside my belay spot, staring into the sun like a lizard, he introduced himself as Hans - asked me where I was from, what the Aussie climbing was like and telling me about his time in Araps and the Bluies. He then without a word stumbled back into the bushes. I had to Google to check if new grandpa Hans was the Hans (Florine), which he was. J returned to Earth and I sprayed about what just happened - only for more rustling in the bushes and back comes Hans with Yuji Hirayama behind him. We shared the crag for the rest of the afternoon with some very entertaining discussion while trading belays. Yuji made comments about his lack of hand jam endurance on five and dime which made me feel better after dogging the fuck out of it after Hans exclaimed "show us what you got Mr Frog Buttress"

Remove the X maybe up the grade to 5.10 ambiguous

I do not know how this got assigned a 5.4 rating. I have climbed this route a few times and nearby routes many times. There definitely exists a 5.0 route that corresponds with the photograph. The view from the belay station that's at the end of the first pitch on the direct ascent (just below the notch; level with where the belay point is marked on kindergarten crack) makes this a classic.

You should not in fact do this as one pitch; high winds in the area result in loss of communication between climber and belayer. Two pitches minimum.

Protection placed: cams between .25 and 3; a pair of mid-sized (I know them as blue) wedges and a very large wedge; and multiple bollards.

This ascent is my first redpoint of this route; I have previously led this route but all prior attempts were done as class 6 ascents due to climbing directly on a cam in the crux point.

Absolutely phenomenal line, up there with the Spartan for the best 5.7 in existence. Except this is 3 pitches of equal quality climbing. Sick corner and roof on p1, absurd runout arete face climbing exposure on p2, a chimney that you wish went forever into a pretty scary traverse on a single bent up piton into 40m of jug hauling on p3. P3 traverse absolutely scarier on second with the lack of pro but J powered through after hauling the pack through the chimney - smiles the whole way up the jug haul.

I absolutely butchered the route finding on p2 when trying to link pitches, rope drag defeated me on the solable terrain just shy of the summit - linkup with corro corner

Sick undercling traverse on slabby terrain

5.11 friction slab can't possibly exist. This thing had no hand holds the whole way, every foot slip just resulted in a good scare but then your foot just sticks to the next bit of nothing it can find

Did the 5.10C variation and finished at the anchors of B.E.G

Rope was getting in the way

Sick OW to #6 - definitely not X let alone R rated, not sure why it says that here?

Fuck wideboyz crack gloves, would be better off using banana peels strapped onto the back of your hands with duck tape

I must've started too high or this is truly a one move 12a that I bypassed the Crux of? Definitely on the right line according to MP but felt way too easy for 12a

Post swim arvo lap

Did a bunch of v0s and a 2 that aren't on thecrag so I'm ticking this v1 to make myself feel good

All jugs

Most sandbagged V2 in the valley?

Epic day out in an absurd position with Yosemite falls putting on a show with peak flow of the year after all the snow melt.

Ethan and I brainstormed this one the night before and decided it sounded like a good idea - no real beta to go off we just took everything and went. 3500ft of elevation with a big pack was a slog, had a lot of tourists in awe of whatever we were doing.

Crazy amount of fixed ropes at the top (6) definitely needs a garbage disposal job. Fixed the 80m rope - which was clutch, a 70m would've required coming off rappel onto some extremely suspect traversing. Mixture of free and aid on the first pitch - 3 x #4s were again a good call. Second pitch was the technical aid, which is absolutely eased of all hooks by God's greatest gift in Yosemite - a rack of totems. Trusting a half engaged totem took a hot second, but it's bomb as the package says. Also turns out carrot bolts (rivets) back in Australia aren't so special, they exist here too - but they don't take plates, just nuts or actual rivet hangers which of course we didn't have. Sick position on the pitch then a bolt ladder to finish.

Got to the top, figured neither of us have ever rigged a tyrolean before but it was pretty easy to figure out. The rope access course I did before coming here actually paid off here in making it easier. Jugging the tyrolean was the hardest part of the day. Everything went perfectly??? We were both shocked.

Yosemite animal bingo was on fire on the walk off. Saw a Marmot, peregrine, brown bear and cub, California king snake, Alex Honnold on his bike at camp 4.

A great last route of the trip. I'll be back

Fun route finishing with a splitter hands crack. The soloists coming down half way through the climb made things fun

Glad to have ticked this. Thanks Blair for the recommendation

Was not prepared for this as the warm up climb. Tried very hard at the bottom

Thin crimp line to a technical top. Who knew Yosemite had great sport lines

Great intro route to the valley beside the traffic jam and Sascha dropping my 0.3

The least sent boulder of the day. Actually did alright on this one - finger crack antics

Not a boulderer

Highballs are scary

Does it count as a clean send if you undergrip on mega jugs on a 5.8 then fall 2m onto a ledge standing and your belayer doesn't even notice?

Sick Yosemite intro - p6 was the scariest thing I've ever led, 2 pitons and one worthwhile cam placement over 30m of traversing while still not totally trusting the granite smears - the handholds were the equivalent of pulling on a stale arnotts lemon crisp at points.

Felt like I went through a footwork class over 10 pitches and it finally started to click by the end. Shit's rough in the valley.

Linked 1/2, 3/4, 7-8.5 then ran out of rope.

Lots of dirt and choss lower down leads to 3 or 4 beautiful pitches of climbing. Then the rock quality turns to shit as you approach the summit. Skip the last 2 pitches and take the easy escape instead.

Ran out of gear on 4th pitch. So built an anchor and did 5th as one mega runnout

Snow covering the first 3m. Started on top of the snow bank

First pitch corner was wet so we used the link up from Easy Wind, 3rd pitch was soaked, we rapped from there.

Aid the first 3 bolts on wet slab to the crack.

Spelt "Shizaam" in latest Guide

Graded V1 in latest Guidebook.