线路 in Idaho for selected grade

Follow the arete to the North Summit of Mustang Peak. Be wary of many loose blocks.

The route follows the North Arete of Peak 11,280. Stay on the arete and follow the ridge to the summit. Several pitches will use horns or blocks for anchors. Be wary of loose blocks. The approach is from the wildhorse creek road at the point of the old abandoned mine.

Anchors are pretty rusty.

Fingers to wide crack climb with lots of surface holds. Really fun lead which is on the stiff side of 5.7.

Finger to full on hand crack. Lie-backing the crack behind the flake is the crux. With small to medium gear.gear.

Stem your way up the wide dihedral to finish on a mantle to a ledge just below the anchors.

Climb the juggy arete using the crack to the right for protection and additional holds. Take plenty of small cams and stoppers. You can finish on either the Fat Ankles anchors or the to anchors to the right.

Really good route in a dihedral left of Lucky Pierre. Ends on the last 12 feet of Lucky Pierre which is pretty challenging for 5.7.

Small crack system on the left with slabby moves to metolius hangers.

You can top rope from the Heat Miser anchors or from the higher anchors to the left of heat Miser, but it is much harder to get to these anchors and probably bumps the grade. The route follows a nice hand to fist crack most of the way with good feet. Protects pretty well most of the way on lead. Crux is the finish in the overhung offwidth with imbedded stones.

Solid dihedral climb. The anchors are too far from the top to set for a TR without leading. The moves to the anchor are the crux withslabby moves over a bulge to mantel onto a small ledge to reach the anchors.

In the guidebooks and on Mountain project this route is indicated to use the Heat Miser anchors but this route now has it's own anchor. The new anchor is to the right and about ten feet higher than the anchors for Heat Miser which makes the route about 60 feet long. Mostly 5.7 climbing, but the final moves to the anchor follow a crack past a burly bulge, and are closer to 5.9.

This route offers a great hand crack most of the way but there are surface holds and bullet proof feet everywhere, so it can be climbed with minimal crack technique. Protection is ample, up to #3 cams for the higher sections of the crack. Take small gear for the crux bulge to the anchors. The guide books and Mountain Project indicate that this climb is 40 feet to the anchor, but this route is much much longer than that. I use a verifiable forty meter factory cut rope (131 feet) at the Black Cliffs and my rope once hung from the anchors was fully three feet off the ground. This route is at least 65 feet long.

Just what the name says, stemming and jamming, hands and feet. . Solid hand crack on the right for most of the climb.

The name of the route is painted on the rock at the base of the climb. Like a lot of climbs at the black cliffs this can be done as a trad climb, sport climb or mixed. Plenty of jugs on the arête most of the way, or you can climb it harder by ignoring the jugs and instead doing hand jamming to fist jamming and then Chicken winging your way up the crack and out onto the bulgy crux next to bolt four. A #6 cam will come in handy for the ow section. A .5 will work in the small crack just left of the bulge under the undercling hold to protect the crux move. Or Just clip the bolt for more peace of mind on the big move pulling up onto the higher face. Might be pg 13 down low if done as a sport climb with no gear in the crack.

Hand crack for first half of the climb before transitioning to a demanding face climb. Afternoon shade.

Finger crack with good jug holds on the face if you can't make the crack work. Some say the grade should be 5.8 if you just use the crack. Very good rock on this climb. Takes medium to small Cams the whole way.

Long traverse near the carved grafitii.

Fun mostly easy traverse with a couple of more difficult moves here and there. Can top out at about 15 feet in several places. You can start anywhere or in either direction. The whole traverse continues for up to 100 feet. Landing is mostly in soft dirt with several large embedded blocks easily protected with crash pads.

Great line. Best to belay from higher up in the shady ledge to the left. There are several tricky moves on thin holds higher up.

Slab on the left.

Climb the south side of the detached pillar. 2 bolts to sport anchor.