As primarily a sport climber, I managed (TR-onsighted) the start but got extremely pumped in the crack section above (or couldn't get rid of the pump that the start gave me). This route might be nice to climb if you have goodcrack technique and also if you are less tired than we were at the end of a long day in JTree. Took me three hangs to get to the top.
I found the start hard to protect -- yes, the pods are there, but the individual moves are like a V2/V3 boulder problem, and it would be tough to plug in gear at that moment. Decking potential for sure.
First bolt is very high and also it is not easy until the first bolt, would not do it in lead. Very tiny crimps on crux moves. Did not do one move above the belly of the first quickdraw, hard and too painful for fingers.
A bit scary to get to the first bolt (this is actually a sport route), before which I could only place a small cam relatively low. The crux is to get from the first to the second bolt on small and very sharp edges. In the end, I went to the good sidepull with the left and matched it with the right, holding the tension to avoid turning out of the wall. On the first try, leading the route, I skipped some moves and focused on getting up somehow. In the second toprope attempt, I had to rest in three places: twice because my fingers hurt so much from the sharp edges and once to figure out the last part of the crux.
Why oh why did i leave it till my last day. So much fun. My onsight ended fairly quickly and then i did it with two hangs on TR. A truly brilliant rock climb and one I will no doubt come back for. Bring on Cold Trip 2020!! (x3)
I found the start hard to protect -- yes, the pods are there, but the individual moves are like a V2/V3 boulder problem, and it would be tough to plug in gear at that moment. Decking potential for sure.