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条目 in Lake Lincoln

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条目
Lake Lincoln
North Side

Features the majority of the sport routes at Lake Lincoln. Faces South-east.

North Side
5.11a Charlie Don't Surf

First route on the left side of the North Wall.

5.11c 13 Crack

Just right of the '13' graffiti. Standard rack with an optional #4 Camalot.

5.12a Ramen Noodles

Starts same as 13 Crack, but bears right a third of the way up. Route has lost holds, bolts, and anchors. Check this one before attempting.

5.13a Dorsal Recumbant

Check bolts as the crux bolt was removed in the past and may not have been replaced yet (making it very dangerous).

5.12a Howard's Route
5.11b Scarlet Bagonias

Start as 'Hung in the Fence' and then bear left after the first bolt. End's on the same anchors as 'Howard's Route.'

5.11b Hung in the Fence
5.10d Gurly Man

Thin crack to the right of 'Hung in the Fence.' Goes over the roof. No anchors - belay from a tree.

5.10a Quest for the Sticky Stuff
5.10 Paco's Taco
5.10a Arachnaphobia
5.11c The Forgotten One
5.5 Moss Crack

Has a tree growing out of it halfway up. No anchors.

5.6 Blowing Crack

Standard Rack with optional big cams.

5.7 Top Hat

Crack system left of the ledge of 'Oversized Output.'

5.11c Oversized Output

Goes up the face to a ledge just left of the Wasp. Finishes at the top of 'The Wasp.' Rack to #1 Camalot.

5.11a The Wasp
5.7 Triple Technique

No anchor. You can traverse to the top of "The Wasp" and lower down via it's anchor. Standard Rack with an optional #4 Camalot.

5.10a Castles Made of Sand

Face just right of Triple Technique. No anchors. Rack to #2 Camalot.

5.7 Triple Token

Bolted face to the right of Triple Technique and Castles Made of Sand.

5.6 Your Mom
5.9 Black Sheep

Arete climb. Beware of potentially loose blocks above the 3rd bolt.

5.9 Lincoln It Up
5.10a Smeaglin' It Up
5.7 5.8 Crack

Dihedral located behind the tree to the right of 'Smeaglin' It Up.' No anchors.

5.8 Wolf Crack

Wide crack. No anchors. Standard Rack with optional big cams.

5.8 Traditional Instincts

Face climb. No anchors.

5.9 Tafoni

Belay tree on top.

5.10c Bad Bolt

Thin crack with a single bolt below the roof. Standard rack. Belay off the 'Tafoni' tree.

5.11c Ironman

Standard Rack. No anchors. Can belay from a tree.

5.9 Testilce Fortitude

Crack to the right of Ironman. Rack to #4 Camalot. No anchors.

5.10d Crystal Method

Check anchors as they may be rusted out.

5.9 Access #1
5.7 Access #2
Box Canyon

Small area with one of the best climbs at Lincoln.

Box Canyon
5.11a Box Canyon
South Side

Small area on the south side of the lake close to the parking lots. Routes are listed starting from the parking lot.

South Side
5.10d Tweek Me

Same start as Jesus at the Anchor. Goes up the dihedral to the right.

5.10d Jesus at the Anchor

First route on the trail from the parking lot.

5.11a Tiberious' Task
5.12b Sex Wax
5.9 Fortunate Luck
5.11a Stuck in the Middle
5.11a The Moron
5.8 Crack Me Up
V8 Low-tide

Boulder downhill of The Moron. Sit start on slightly detached block. Turn the roof for the finish. Only accessible at low-tide.

Turtles

High quality area with some of Lincoln's best bouldering problems.

Turtles
Cove Boulders

Look for a right leaning boulder with a small cave underneath it.

Turtles Cove Boulders
V7 Starry Night

Start with left pinch and right gaston. Angle up and right, then top out.

V9 Over the Rhone

Follows a long rail starting at the back of the cave. Same top out as Starry Night.

Turtles
Turtles

Look for a 45 degree sloped and layered boulder.

Turtles Turtles
V1 Final Solution

Starts just right of Mother of the Storm. Go up left-angling crack. Top out via a crack. Sit start to get a V2 rating.

V3 Father Frank

Same start as Mother of the Storm. Halfway up, move onto the face and top out just right of the apex.

V4 Mother of the Storm

Start at the bottom of the left-leaning arete. Follow it all the way up until the last third. Move out onto the face and top out.

V0 The Best Crack in Missouri

Follow the left-leaning dihedral to the top out.

V1 Eichman's Apology

Start between The Best Crack in Missouri and Turtles Blazing Across Nevada. Angles left to the top out.

V5 Turtles Blazing Across Nevada

Left leaning arete. Starting hold is a high jug.

The Black 45 Project

Starts just left of Turtles Blazing Across Nevada. Characterized by a steep, black wall.

V5 Space Chubby

Dihedral/arete left of the Black 45 Project. Starts on crimp.

V4 Wooly Bugger

Dihedral/arete. Begins on angling jug.

V6 Auto-Cannibalism

Arete. Begins on obvious jug. Can either face climb on the right or just the left side of the arete.

V7 Eat This

Begin with two crimps further down and work into Auto-Cannabalism.

Turtles
Dub

Just north of Turtles Boulder.

Turtles Dub
V6 Going to Dubville

South side of boulder. Begin on low jug and follow the rail left.

V7 Straight out to Dubville

Same as Going to Dubville. One move short of the lip, go over the roof.

Dam Boulders

Park at the main Parking Spot. Either walk past the roped climbs and ascend at the far end, or ascend near the parking lot. Either way, get to the trail on the top of the crag. Follow it along the North Side along the lake. At the far north of the lake the trail will cross the Dam. Cross the Dam and take the right trail (Lake Loop trail sign). Follow the trail until it descends into the boulder field.

Dam Boulders
The Corridor Boulders

A corridor formed by two boulders.

Dam Boulders The Corridor Boulders
V1 Choss Crack

First crack on the left side of the Corridor

V3 Corridor-Cave Right

Right side of the Corridor. Sit start.

V2 Corridor-Cave Middle

Sit start.

V1 Corridor-Cave Left

Sit Start.

V0+ The Prow

Sit Start on the prow on the left side of the Corridor

V3 Last Chance

Middle of the face on the back side of the Corridor-Cave routes.

V6 Block Right

Sit Start on the jutting flake. Move right. Skirt of rock that forms the base of the boulder is off.

V1 Block Crack

Sit Start on the jutting flake. Go straight up the crack. Skirt of rock that forms the base of the boulder is off.

V2 Block Left

Sit Start on the jutting flake. Move left. Top out via a crack. Skirt of rock that forms the base of the boulder is off.

V2 Block Party

Located on the back side of the Block boulder. Sit start and move up to the arete for the top out.

Dam Boulders
23 Wall Boulder

Has a white number 23 on the middle of the wall.

Dam Boulders 23 Wall Boulder
V1 NBDL

Sit start on the far left of the 23 wall. Climb up a few moves and then done.

V5 Michael Jordan

Sit start left of the 23. Move up a few moves to a final jug before dropping off.

V8 Threepeat

Sit start same as Michael Jordan. Traverse right into Twenty Three.

V6 Twenty Three

Start on jug above the 23. Go up and right to a horizontal for the finish.

Dam Boulders
Long Boulder

Long short boulder.

Dam Boulders Long Boulder
V1 Chitown

On the right side of the boulder. Sit start and climb the face.

V4 Rattly Bones

Traverse from the right side of the boulder to the left.

V3 Dead Evidence

Start right of the arete in the middle of the boulder. Top out to the right.

V0 Not for Long

Start left of the arete in the middle of the boulder. Top out same as Dead Evidence.

Dam Boulders
The Warm-up Boulder

On the Lake Lincoln Trail about 20-30 meters downhill from the 23 Wall Boulders.

Dam Boulders The Warm-up Boulder
V1 Pocket Puller

On the left side of the South side of the boulder. Sit start. Goes between two aretes with a mantle top out.

V1 Red River

Just right of Pocket Puller. Sit start. Overhanging pockets with a mantle for the topout.

V1 Lost

Right of Red River. Sit start on flake. Ends with a mantle.

V2 Cheater

Right of Lost. Sit start with crimps.

V1 Warm-up

North side of boulder. Sit start on a jug. Small overhang in the middle.

V0 Warm-down

North side of the boulder, right (West) of Warm-up. Vertical face with a small roof.

Dam Boulders
Tight Ride Boulders

One minute or so walk past The Warm-up Boulder. The downhill sides are adjacent to the lakeshore.

Dam Boulders Tight Ride Boulders
V0 Get Down

North side of the boulder. Sidepull start then go straight up.

V0 The Big Up

Just right (West) of Get Down. Pockets and jugs lead the way.

V6 Osbourne Problem

South side of the East boulder. Start matched on a pinch under the roof. Go up and over.

Showing 1 - 100 out of 135 条目.

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