条目 |
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Lake Lincoln |
North Side
Features the majority of the sport routes at Lake Lincoln. Faces South-east. |
North Side |
5.11a
★★★ Charlie Don't Surf
First route on the left side of the North Wall. |
5.11c
13 Crack
Just right of the '13' graffiti. Standard rack with an optional #4 Camalot. |
5.12a
Ramen Noodles
Starts same as 13 Crack, but bears right a third of the way up. Route has lost holds, bolts, and anchors. Check this one before attempting. |
5.13a
Dorsal Recumbant
Check bolts as the crux bolt was removed in the past and may not have been replaced yet (making it very dangerous). |
5.12a Howard's Route |
5.11b
Scarlet Bagonias
Start as 'Hung in the Fence' and then bear left after the first bolt. End's on the same anchors as 'Howard's Route.' |
5.11b Hung in the Fence |
5.10d
Gurly Man
Thin crack to the right of 'Hung in the Fence.' Goes over the roof. No anchors - belay from a tree. |
5.10a ★ Quest for the Sticky Stuff |
5.10 ★★ Paco's Taco |
5.10a ★★ Arachnaphobia |
5.11c The Forgotten One |
5.5
Moss Crack
Has a tree growing out of it halfway up. No anchors. |
5.6
Blowing Crack
Standard Rack with optional big cams. |
5.7
Top Hat
Crack system left of the ledge of 'Oversized Output.' |
5.11c
Oversized Output
Goes up the face to a ledge just left of the Wasp. Finishes at the top of 'The Wasp.' Rack to #1 Camalot. |
5.11a ★★ The Wasp |
5.7
★★ Triple Technique
No anchor. You can traverse to the top of "The Wasp" and lower down via it's anchor. Standard Rack with an optional #4 Camalot. |
5.10a
Castles Made of Sand
Face just right of Triple Technique. No anchors. Rack to #2 Camalot. |
5.7
★ Triple Token
Bolted face to the right of Triple Technique and Castles Made of Sand. |
5.6 ★ Your Mom |
5.9
Black Sheep
Arete climb. Beware of potentially loose blocks above the 3rd bolt. |
5.9 Lincoln It Up |
5.10a Smeaglin' It Up |
5.7
5.8 Crack
Dihedral located behind the tree to the right of 'Smeaglin' It Up.' No anchors. |
5.8
Wolf Crack
Wide crack. No anchors. Standard Rack with optional big cams. |
5.8
Traditional Instincts
Face climb. No anchors. |
5.9
Tafoni
Belay tree on top. |
5.10c
Bad Bolt
Thin crack with a single bolt below the roof. Standard rack. Belay off the 'Tafoni' tree. |
5.11c
Ironman
Standard Rack. No anchors. Can belay from a tree. |
5.9
Testilce Fortitude
Crack to the right of Ironman. Rack to #4 Camalot. No anchors. |
5.10d
Crystal Method
Check anchors as they may be rusted out. |
5.9 Access #1 |
5.7 Access #2 |
Box Canyon
Small area with one of the best climbs at Lincoln. |
Box Canyon |
5.11a Box Canyon |
South Side
Small area on the south side of the lake close to the parking lots. Routes are listed starting from the parking lot. |
South Side |
5.10d
Tweek Me
Same start as Jesus at the Anchor. Goes up the dihedral to the right. |
5.10d
Jesus at the Anchor
First route on the trail from the parking lot. |
5.11a Tiberious' Task |
5.12b Sex Wax |
5.9 Fortunate Luck |
5.11a Stuck in the Middle |
5.11a The Moron |
5.8 Crack Me Up |
V8
Low-tide
Boulder downhill of The Moron. Sit start on slightly detached block. Turn the roof for the finish. Only accessible at low-tide. |
Turtles
High quality area with some of Lincoln's best bouldering problems. |
Turtles |
Cove Boulders
Look for a right leaning boulder with a small cave underneath it. |
Turtles Cove Boulders |
V7
Starry Night
Start with left pinch and right gaston. Angle up and right, then top out. |
V9
Over the Rhone
Follows a long rail starting at the back of the cave. Same top out as Starry Night. |
Turtles |
Turtles
Look for a 45 degree sloped and layered boulder. |
Turtles Turtles |
V1
Final Solution
Starts just right of Mother of the Storm. Go up left-angling crack. Top out via a crack. Sit start to get a V2 rating. |
V3
Father Frank
Same start as Mother of the Storm. Halfway up, move onto the face and top out just right of the apex. |
V4
Mother of the Storm
Start at the bottom of the left-leaning arete. Follow it all the way up until the last third. Move out onto the face and top out. |
V0
The Best Crack in Missouri
Follow the left-leaning dihedral to the top out. |
V1
Eichman's Apology
Start between The Best Crack in Missouri and Turtles Blazing Across Nevada. Angles left to the top out. |
V5
Turtles Blazing Across Nevada
Left leaning arete. Starting hold is a high jug. |
The Black 45 Project
Starts just left of Turtles Blazing Across Nevada. Characterized by a steep, black wall. |
V5
Space Chubby
Dihedral/arete left of the Black 45 Project. Starts on crimp. |
V4
Wooly Bugger
Dihedral/arete. Begins on angling jug. |
V6
Auto-Cannibalism
Arete. Begins on obvious jug. Can either face climb on the right or just the left side of the arete. |
V7
Eat This
Begin with two crimps further down and work into Auto-Cannabalism. |
Turtles |
Dub
Just north of Turtles Boulder. |
Turtles Dub |
V6
Going to Dubville
South side of boulder. Begin on low jug and follow the rail left. |
V7
Straight out to Dubville
Same as Going to Dubville. One move short of the lip, go over the roof. |
Dam Boulders
Park at the main Parking Spot. Either walk past the roped climbs and ascend at the far end, or ascend near the parking lot. Either way, get to the trail on the top of the crag. Follow it along the North Side along the lake. At the far north of the lake the trail will cross the Dam. Cross the Dam and take the right trail (Lake Loop trail sign). Follow the trail until it descends into the boulder field. |
Dam Boulders |
The Corridor Boulders
A corridor formed by two boulders. |
Dam Boulders The Corridor Boulders |
V1
Choss Crack
First crack on the left side of the Corridor |
V3
Corridor-Cave Right
Right side of the Corridor. Sit start. |
V2
Corridor-Cave Middle
Sit start. |
V1
Corridor-Cave Left
Sit Start. |
V0+
The Prow
Sit Start on the prow on the left side of the Corridor |
V3
Last Chance
Middle of the face on the back side of the Corridor-Cave routes. |
V6
Block Right
Sit Start on the jutting flake. Move right. Skirt of rock that forms the base of the boulder is off. |
V1
★ Block Crack
Sit Start on the jutting flake. Go straight up the crack. Skirt of rock that forms the base of the boulder is off. |
V2
Block Left
Sit Start on the jutting flake. Move left. Top out via a crack. Skirt of rock that forms the base of the boulder is off. |
V2
★ Block Party
Located on the back side of the Block boulder. Sit start and move up to the arete for the top out. |
Dam Boulders |
23 Wall Boulder
Has a white number 23 on the middle of the wall. |
Dam Boulders 23 Wall Boulder |
V1
NBDL
Sit start on the far left of the 23 wall. Climb up a few moves and then done. |
V5
Michael Jordan
Sit start left of the 23. Move up a few moves to a final jug before dropping off. |
V8
Threepeat
Sit start same as Michael Jordan. Traverse right into Twenty Three. |
V6
Twenty Three
Start on jug above the 23. Go up and right to a horizontal for the finish. |
Dam Boulders |
Long Boulder
Long short boulder. |
Dam Boulders Long Boulder |
V1
★ Chitown
On the right side of the boulder. Sit start and climb the face. |
V4
Rattly Bones
Traverse from the right side of the boulder to the left. |
V3
★★ Dead Evidence
Start right of the arete in the middle of the boulder. Top out to the right. |
V0
Not for Long
Start left of the arete in the middle of the boulder. Top out same as Dead Evidence. |
Dam Boulders |
The Warm-up Boulder
On the Lake Lincoln Trail about 20-30 meters downhill from the 23 Wall Boulders. |
Dam Boulders The Warm-up Boulder |
V1
★ Pocket Puller
On the left side of the South side of the boulder. Sit start. Goes between two aretes with a mantle top out. |
V1
Red River
Just right of Pocket Puller. Sit start. Overhanging pockets with a mantle for the topout. |
V1
★ Lost
Right of Red River. Sit start on flake. Ends with a mantle. |
V2
Cheater
Right of Lost. Sit start with crimps. |
V1
Warm-up
North side of boulder. Sit start on a jug. Small overhang in the middle. |
V0
Warm-down
North side of the boulder, right (West) of Warm-up. Vertical face with a small roof. |
Dam Boulders |
Tight Ride Boulders
One minute or so walk past The Warm-up Boulder. The downhill sides are adjacent to the lakeshore. |
Dam Boulders Tight Ride Boulders |
V0
Get Down
North side of the boulder. Sidepull start then go straight up. |
V0
The Big Up
Just right (West) of Get Down. Pockets and jugs lead the way. |
V6
Osbourne Problem
South side of the East boulder. Start matched on a pinch under the roof. Go up and over. |