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The Far Side Wall

  • 难度体系: US

准入问题 取自Massacre Rocks State Park

Massacre Rocks is part of the much larger “American Falls Archaeological District” (AFAD). There are multiple land jurisdictions in both the AFAD and where climbing takes place (see BLM Map). Extensive and well documented studies of the AFAD near and around the Snake River show many cultural resources and evidence of human habitation for at least the last 13,000 years. This area is considered sacred to the local Shoshone- Bannock tribes. Be respectful and minimize your footprint and impact in the area. Keep your staging area small and contained. Pick up and pack out your trash including tape, orange or banana peels, cigarette butts, etc. Prevent your dog from digging. Don’t start or make any fires, especially near the base of cliffs.

Also, please, only park in one of the designated parking areas and respect all road closures. Sandy soils in the AFAD are prone to wind erosion. Motorized vehicles and even foot traffic can damage the fragile ecology and could destroy rare, irreplaceable evidence of 13,000 years of human habitation. When hiking to the crags use established trails and don’t short cut or braid existing trails. Use the following graphic from the BLM to understand which areas are closed to motorized travel.

行为准则 取自Massacre Rocks State Park

The absic infor provided here is from Massacre Rocks Climbing Guide, Updated By: © 2016 Mike Engle, Engle Portal Productions

Updates available at http://www.seiclimbing.com New Route Info: contact Mike Engle @ mike.w.engle@gmail.com

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线路

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Grade 线路

Steep white rock, follow thin seam left through roof

First 2 bolts of 'Blizzard', then right into white right facing corner

Thin diagonal crack start to second bolt then straight up

Up white face to short steep crack finish

About 30 yards right of 'Twist & Pout', scramble up 15 feet to first bolt, great pockets, way steep

Goes up through crux slot

100 yards right of 'Bouldergeist', 4 bolts up overhung prow on grey pocketed features. Massacres steepest and best pocket climb

50 yards right of 'Holey Moley', crux finish, chain anchor

About 5' right of 'Good to the Last Drop'

Several cruxes, finish in shallow right corner

Project

Starts in crux corner

Slab start

Project, up slot

Starts up huge, free standing flake

Hop up on the slab, then try getting on the face to the left

Same start as 'Killer Wail', then up corner to arete above

Right diagonaling finger crack

Starts out of low cave, 2 bolts up brown feature, then angle right and up for 4 more bolts

Cave start, up and left to same finish (2 bolts) as 'Seal Clubber'

Low cave start, then up right-leaning dihedral; may want to place pro (#0.5 Camalot) between bolts #4 and #5, same anchors as 'Thanx for the Ankors'

Starts on flat boulder at edge of low cave, hard moves through the first 3 bolts, then worthy finish

Project, 5 bolts - chopped, double botched 'route' thin seam with poorly retro filled/patch drilled finger pockets

Shares first 2 bolts with 'U-Turn', then angle left to steep headwall finish

Under cling right around flake, high first bolt, then right and up hand crack

Scramble up ramp and left diagonaling finger crack to a high first bolt, struggle up the body-snatcher slot until you can escape right to the face

Right-leaning corner

Steep prow, 3-bolt variation to the last 2 bolts of 'Hilti Goes to Heaven'

Up inside corner

Left side of creamy white prow, chain anchors

Pretty, steep face, right side of creamy white prow

2 bolt direct start, bypasses roof on the left side, then finish on last 2 bolts of 'Big Woof'

Wildest horizontal moves at Massacre!! Traverse roof crack right to left

(chain), just right of Big Woof start

Right of 'Big Woof', follow a right diagonal line

Up corner

Brown barn-door bulge start

project

Brown bulge start, then angle right up steep face/arete

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Dave Bingham

日期: 2019

国际书号: 9781938393358

Wolverine Publishing:
Whatever style of climbing you prefer, Idaho Underground highlights over 1,500 well-known and lesser-know routes, from the spectacular limestone walls of the Fins to truly underground lava tubes.
  • Full-color 2nd edition includes over 1,500 routes and problems for sport climbing, trad climbing and bouldering at the Fins, Snake River Basalt, Boise and Sun Valley
  • Author Dave Bingham, an Idaho climbing legend, also spotlights lesser known areas, including the Black Cliffs, Teddy Bear Cove, Dierkes Lake, Leslie Gulch and more
  • Wolverine Publishing will donate $1 from every book sold to local climbing organizations

附近的住宿 more 隐藏

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