条目 |
---|
Massacre Rocks State Park
Massacre Rocks receives its name from an Indian ambush that took place back in the old days. Massacre is located on the Snake River and is a beautiful place. |
Owl Cove
U-shaped cove about 1/4 mile west, down-river, of the 'Main Wall Area'. Climbs are listed clockwise, starting on the west wall |
Owl Cove |
Cling/Clang Wall
This is the left most wall in the 'Owl Cove Area' and is south east facing |
Owl Cove Cling/Clang Wall |
5.11a
★ Dry Hump
Left most route with a hard pull at the roof |
5.8
★ Pink Slip
Start on rounded holds, climb to a shallow dihedral with a sport anchor |
5.9
★ Bolter's Ed
Take blocky holds up a steep wall to a finish in a deep dihedral |
5.8
Blind Date
Bulge to corner |
5.11a/b
★★ Cling
Short, sweet, steep! |
5.11c
★ Clang
2 bolts through steep terrain and finish on the last 2 bolts of 'Cling' |
5.11c/d
★ Spring Spawner
Another short, steep one |
5.10d
★ Jabberwocky
Curving dark face |
5.12a/b
★★ Wild Thang
Wild layback!! |
5.11a/b
★ The Wild Side
Starts in corner, move left onto arete/face, fun headwall finish |
5.11d/12a
★ The Vile Side
4-bolt variation to the start of 'The Wild Side' |
5.10d/11a
★ The Mild Side
Short-but-fun face, no anchor so finish on 'The Wild Side' headwall |
Owl Cove |
Owl Wall
Southeast facing Owl Wall is about a 100 feet to the right of 'Cling/Clang Wall' |
Owl Cove Owl Wall |
5.10a
★ Bitch Slap
Slabby arete |
5.8
★ 5.8ish
Massacre Rocks is part of the much larger “American Falls Archaeological District” (AFAD). There are multiple land jurisdictions in both the AFAD and where climbing takes place (see BLM Map). Extensive and well documented studies of the AFAD near and around the Snake River show many cultural resources and evidence of human habitation for at least the last 13,000 years. This area is considered sacred to the local Shoshone- Bannock tribes. Be respectful and minimize your footprint and impact in the area. Keep your staging area small and contained. Pick up and pack out your trash including tape, orange or banana peels, cigarette butts, etc. Prevent your dog from digging. Don’t start or make any fires, especially near the base of cliffs. Also, please, only park in one of the designated parking areas and respect all road closures. Sandy soils in the AFAD are prone to wind erosion. Motorized vehicles and even foot traffic can damage the fragile ecology and could destroy rare, irreplaceable evidence of 13,000 years of human habitation. When hiking to the crags use established trails and don’t short cut or braid existing trails. Use the following graphic from the BLM to understand which areas are closed to motorized travel. |
5.8
★ Bad Date
Pro-your-own crack/block |
5.10d
★ Get Laid
Tricky layback top crux |
5.9/10a
★ Heavy Petting
Starts beneath small roof |
5.9
★★ First Date
Pro corner/crack/roof |
5.11d
★★ Dv8
On blunt corner to face, thin crux! |
5.11a
★★★ Space Violator
Up center of face, save some juice for the top! |
5.11b
★★ Black Mamba
Same start as 'Space Violator', then right and up, tricky laybacks |
5.10c
★ Face Shot
Short bolted face |
5.10b
★ Space Shot
Tricky bolted blunt arete/face |
5.10b
★★ jeff-boy-r.d.
Corner to face |
5.12a
★★★ Holey Trojans
Left side of steep slab, thin moves! |
5.11a
★★ Hot Date
Right side of slab, same anchors as 'Holey Trojans' |
5.9/10a
★★ Date Bait
In corner |
5.10b
★ Wet Dreams
Blunt prow |
5.12d
★★★ Tow Job
Steep slab with dime-thin edges |
5.11b/c
★★ The Slob
Groovy moves |
Owl Cove |
Asylum Wall
West-facing wall on east side of 'Owl Cove Area' |
Owl Cove Asylum Wall |
5.10a
★ Adhd
Clip first bolt of 'Sociopath' then move left, good finish on excellent rock, upper ledge start |
5.10b
★ Sociopath
If you climb on the left side of the bolt line, 5.10c on the right, upper ledge start |
5.10c
★★★ Psychopath
Upper ledge start, fun, techy start to a steep finish |
5.10d
★ Coma Toes
(if you stay on the arete!), a giggle of a climb |
5.10a
★ Waiter, There's a Fly in My Supe
Massacre Rocks is part of the much larger “American Falls Archaeological District” (AFAD). There are multiple land jurisdictions in both the AFAD and where climbing takes place (see BLM Map). Extensive and well documented studies of the AFAD near and around the Snake River show many cultural resources and evidence of human habitation for at least the last 13,000 years. This area is considered sacred to the local Shoshone- Bannock tribes. Be respectful and minimize your footprint and impact in the area. Keep your staging area small and contained. Pick up and pack out your trash including tape, orange or banana peels, cigarette butts, etc. Prevent your dog from digging. Don’t start or make any fires, especially near the base of cliffs. Also, please, only park in one of the designated parking areas and respect all road closures. Sandy soils in the AFAD are prone to wind erosion. Motorized vehicles and even foot traffic can damage the fragile ecology and could destroy rare, irreplaceable evidence of 13,000 years of human habitation. When hiking to the crags use established trails and don’t short cut or braid existing trails. Use the following graphic from the BLM to understand which areas are closed to motorized travel. |
5.11d
★★ Welcome to the Funny Farm
Good face moves |
5.10b/c
★★ Chalk Therapy
Massacre Rocks is part of the much larger “American Falls Archaeological District” (AFAD). There are multiple land jurisdictions in both the AFAD and where climbing takes place (see BLM Map). Extensive and well documented studies of the AFAD near and around the Snake River show many cultural resources and evidence of human habitation for at least the last 13,000 years. This area is considered sacred to the local Shoshone- Bannock tribes. Be respectful and minimize your footprint and impact in the area. Keep your staging area small and contained. Pick up and pack out your trash including tape, orange or banana peels, cigarette butts, etc. Prevent your dog from digging. Don’t start or make any fires, especially near the base of cliffs. Also, please, only park in one of the designated parking areas and respect all road closures. Sandy soils in the AFAD are prone to wind erosion. Motorized vehicles and even foot traffic can damage the fragile ecology and could destroy rare, irreplaceable evidence of 13,000 years of human habitation. When hiking to the crags use established trails and don’t short cut or braid existing trails. Use the following graphic from the BLM to understand which areas are closed to motorized travel. |
5.12a
★★★ Straight Jacket
Up black bulge/face, kinky!! |
5.13b/c
★★ Commited
Direct start to straight jacket, 2 additional bolts on the direct start |
5.10c
★ Brain Dead but Good in Bed
Up overhanging flare, weird moves! |
5.11b
★★ Acrophobia
Starts up crack/slot |
5.11c/d
★ Psycho Billy
Up left side of huge block |
5.11a/b
★ Sweethearts of the Rodeo
Up right side of block, same finish as 'Psycho Billy' |
5.12a
★★★ Pervert's Pleasures
(if you don't wimp out and use the block to the left!!), sustained, up two parallel seams to dihedral finish |
5.12a
★★★ Cat-A-Tonic
Up thin face |
5.12b
★★★ Pavlov's Dogs
White face just left of obvious roof, great!! |
5.11b
★★ Oedipus Complex
Through big roof, using right side only is harder |
5.12d
★★★ Maniac
Up white face, Massacre's best hard climb! |
5.11c
★★★ Amnesia
Through crux flare |
5.11c
Its Time for Your Medication
Kind of contrived |
5.11c/d
★★ Pathological Flyer
Excellent and varied moves, crux at top if you avoid off-route crack to the left |
5.11d/12a
★★★ Zigman Void
Up z-seam face |
5.11a
★★★ Freudian Slip
Great concave crack/face, crux is after last bolt! |
5.10d
★ Off Your Rocker
Several crux sections |
Owl Cove |
Lower Tier of Asylum Wall
Next routes are below and right of 'Off Your Rocker' |
Owl Cove Lower Tier of Asylum Wall |
5.11d
★★ Still Crazy After All These Years
Blunt arete, sharp edges |
5.11c/d
★ Demonic Possession
Pro crack, second crack right of 'Still Crazy After All These Years', behind big juniper |
5.11a/b
★ Delirious
Next crack right, needs pro |
5.12b/c
★ Seizure
Using arete only, 5.11c if you use the right crack |
5.10a
★ Nut Case
Retrobolted aka 'Slippin' Post', long route |
5.11d/12a
★★ Serial Driller
Long, several cruxes |
5.10b
★★ Crack Baby
Long retro bolted line |
5.9/10a
★★ Nurse Ratchet
Up weird, eroded plates |
5.11c/d
★ Doctor Feelgood
Continuation of 'Nurse Ratchet' |
5.10d
★ Ted's & Marty's Wonderful Adventure
Long pro crack, left of obvious large face |
5.11c
★★ Sketch-O-Frantic
Bolt line up right side of face, kind of loose rock at start, gets better, kinky moves! steep finish |
5.10c
★ Daddy Needs His Medicine
Retro bolted long line |
5.11a
★ Yo Riley Crack
Pro crack, starts on left side of short pillar |
5.11d
★ No Mo Natural Pro
Crack with bolts, might want to stick-clip first bolt |
5.12b
★★★ Split Personality
Starts on short pillar, then right, great climb, stemming start to crack, crux face finish |
5.11c
★★ Airhead
Up hand-jam crack to great, steep finish |
5.11c/d
★★ Pain Thriller
Starts in thin, tough finger crack, then up and left for steep face finish |
5.10d
★ Loco
Massacre Rocks is part of the much larger “American Falls Archaeological District” (AFAD). There are multiple land jurisdictions in both the AFAD and where climbing takes place (see BLM Map). Extensive and well documented studies of the AFAD near and around the Snake River show many cultural resources and evidence of human habitation for at least the last 13,000 years. This area is considered sacred to the local Shoshone- Bannock tribes. Be respectful and minimize your footprint and impact in the area. Keep your staging area small and contained. Pick up and pack out your trash including tape, orange or banana peels, cigarette butts, etc. Prevent your dog from digging. Don’t start or make any fires, especially near the base of cliffs. Also, please, only park in one of the designated parking areas and respect all road closures. Sandy soils in the AFAD are prone to wind erosion. Motorized vehicles and even foot traffic can damage the fragile ecology and could destroy rare, irreplaceable evidence of 13,000 years of human habitation. When hiking to the crags use established trails and don’t short cut or braid existing trails. Use the following graphic from the BLM to understand which areas are closed to motorized travel. |
5.10b
★★ No Name
Crack or 'Tr' |
5.11a
★★ Everybody and Their Dog
Up wild, detached pillar |
5.10c/d
★ Lunatic
Start on first 2 bolts of 'Delirium Tremens', then left for 4 bolts, finishes on same anchors as 'Delirium Tremens', some of Massacre's best stemming |
5.11a
★ Delirium Tremens
Face right of pillar |
5.10d
★★ Wild Virus
Good moves |
5.11b
★★ Special Olympics
Up crack to blunt, brown arete, crux is thin finish |
5.10c
★ Dead Man Walking
Pull through a crack to a ledge below a double dihedral. This is an approach pitch to the Jail House Wall |
Owl Cove |
Jail House Wall
Great looking wall above the right end of the Lower Tier of 'Asylum Wall'. Huge ledge runs from 'Asylum Wall' to 'Rubble Wall'. Use 'Dead Man Walking' or 'Red Shank' as an approach pitch. You can also find anchors at the top and rap in. |
Owl Cove Jail House Wall |
5.10c
★★ Jail Break
Left most route on the upper wall |
5.10c
★★★ Back on the Chain Gang
Straight up the center of the wall |
5.11a
★★★ Stonebreaker
Right trending moves to a stance, move left to a steep finish. Perfect chocolate brown rock |
Owl Cove |
Rubble Wall
Broken-looking area just right of the 'Owl Cove Area', the wall faces east and the river and is significantly left of the 'Main Wall Area'. Best approached by traversing in from the 'Owl Cove Area' or it is directly across the Snake River from the boat put in for either the 'Owl Cove Area' or the 'Main Wall Area'. |
Owl Cove Rubble Wall |
5.9
★ Barn Stormer
Left most route, start in a nice corner past 2 bolts to a ledge. Continue up a dihedral to a broken face on fine brown rock, stem a wide corner to the anchors |
5.10a
★★ Lone Ranger
Bolt line up a pillar formation left of a large bush, climb into the left dihedral between the 3rd and 4th bolts, then hand traverse right at the 6th bolt to the right side dihedral and follow the corner/bolts to the anchor. Original route is 5.11b by avoiding both corners and cracks (with difficulty) and staying on the pillar only. Excellent climb if you follow the holds |
5.9
★ Red Shank
Follow the line of bolts just right of the large bush about 1/3 the way up the cliff. This is the easiest approach pitch to Jail House Wall. Pull onto the large ledge and walk/scramble to the base of the routes on Jail House Wall |
5.10a
★ Puppy Chow
Right of Red Shank climb past 1 bolt to the ledge, climb up the face of the column to a corner system, finish at the anchors in a large roof |
5.11c/d
★★ Double-Dog-Dare
Clip the first 3 bolts on 'Puppy Chow', then move right and up over the hard bulge, 4 more bolts |
5.10b
★ Watchtower
Starts on gritty section to broken face, and finishes on prow |
5.11a
★ Cryday the 13th
Short approach pitch then belay at anchors. The rock quality and climb improves after first few bolts |
5.11c/d
★★ The Whinery
Clip the first 3 bolts on 'Cryday', then move right, up hard finger crack and over bulges |
Main Wall
This wall faces southeast, just above the river. Traditional access is by boat, canoe, or kayak. Canoe put in is just past the fee station at the 'Massacre Rocks State Park' Entrance. Park your vehicle behind the fee station and portage the canoe across a trail directly to the river. Once across the river continue up river about 300 yards past the 'Owl Cove Area' to the start of the good looking rock. Walk up hill to the leftmost route, 'Arch Enemy'. It is also possible to hike from P1 or P2 or P3 parking. Hike to All American and continue east skirting right around 'Royalty Point' and head towards 'Camptown Towers' and 'Owl Cove Area'. From 'Owl Cove Area' walk up river to the Main Wall Area area. 30 mins. There are slightly more direct routes walking up and over the mesa's |
Main Wall |
Left Wing Wall
Left-most crag defining the start of the 'Main Wall Area' |