线路 in Nevada for selected grade

Start on block below rotten crack, climb along bolt line up and leftwards.

Crack is generally too shallow for jamming but lots of face moves keep the climbing pretty mellow. Protection is tricky with lots of passive placements and generally small cams. Tricams will work here. Bolted anchors.

Climb the face on the right inside the chimney.

Featured in Climbing magazine's "America's Best 100 sport climbs" (Oct 2015). The rock is a little hollow in places, but well bolted. All pitches have a 5.9 crux which makes this route a sensational journey up a beautiful wall.

The bolted route between Red Riding Hood and Physical Grafitti, starting off raised platform left of Physical Graffiti.

P1) 70ft, 5.9, steep juggy wall. 8 bolts.

P2) 80ft, 5.8, slabby friction climbing. 8 bolts.

P3) 70ft, 5.8, a little friction, then steep juggy finish to anchor. 8 bolts.

Descent:

Option 1) climb a 4th pitch of low 5th class past 2 bolts to another anchor, maybe 30 foot, then walk off climber's left and down the descent gully.

Option 2) Rappel from the top of pitch 3, 2 x 60m ropes reach the ground with about 1 foot spare, make sure your 60m ropes are 60m!

Option 3) Rappel the route with 3 single rope rappels.

A tight corner that goes through a roof and continues up a crack to the bolted anchors of the first pitch of Physical Graffiti.

About 1/2 way up Lil Red, face climb across to a long crack system and follow it to the top.

Farthest left route. First set of bolts for top roping when accessing from the top.

Climb through the same roof but to the right of No Exit. Starts just left of a huge hueco. Shares an anchor with No Exit.

Furthest to the right and at the end of the accessible area above for setting an anchor.

Climb the chossy grooves and vertical flakes

Stand start and climb the arete with nice sidepulls.

It'a a mantle.

Chimney

Start same as Clam Bumper. Go left first to the juggy crack, then move right to nice jugs and easy top-out

The obvious juggy flake in the center of this boulder.

Go up the u-shaped black water streak at the far right of the slab.

The right route on the tall part of the main wall. Step across into the chimney and work it for a bolt, then pull left onto the face and up past a small bulge and four more bolts to anchors.

The second of three routes (from the left) on the east face around the corner from Super Tsardom.

Leftmost bolt line. Climbs a slab to a small crux roof below the anchor.

Juggy and cruisy wall, with a sofa-grade rest in the middle. (M. Kimm, 2014)

The left-most bolted route.

The first bolt is high, very high. Most of the climbing to it is easy -- 5.2/5.3 stuff, but unless you're quite tall and reachy, one very high up (15' or so) 5.7ish move must be done to clip the first bolt, making the start very committing.

Starting just right of "Electric Coolaid", climb the right sloping crack until it turns vertical and peters out in the slight scoop in the face, then follow two bolts up and leftwards to the shared anchor.

First bolted route on the left as you enter the corridor.

Fairly newly bolted (2010?), and not yet named. 3rd set of bolts on left as you enter.

Moves through a set of interesting under-clings.

A nice lead, though many seem to skip the first bolt, and start right of it to climb to 2nd bolt.