攀登 in Donner Summit

I do not know how this got assigned a 5.4 rating. I have climbed this route a few times and nearby routes many times. There definitely exists a 5.0 route that corresponds with the photograph. The view from the belay station that's at the end of the first pitch on the direct ascent (just below the notch; level with where the belay point is marked on kindergarten crack) makes this a classic.

You should not in fact do this as one pitch; high winds in the area result in loss of communication between climber and belayer. Two pitches minimum.

Protection placed: cams between .25 and 3; a pair of mid-sized (I know them as blue) wedges and a very large wedge; and multiple bollards.

This ascent is my first redpoint of this route; I have previously led this route but all prior attempts were done as class 6 ascents due to climbing directly on a cam in the crux point.

tronsight

2nd try

Failed onsight attempt, 1 lap on toprope, came back and sent on lead.

fell during lead onsight attempt. Toprope send.

onsighted with easy start, repeated with full value start

2 tries. worked all moves on first try. starts easy, gets harder. very sequential just under the lip

fucking wacky and absurd. only gear needed is 2x #2s, 2 long slings for chockstones, and maybe a blue totem for ramp. bring small gear up to .5s or .75s if doing vertical chimney exit, no e tra gear if doing exit past big sharks tooth

probably 10 tries over 5 sessions, and then sent while hanging draws on warmup/beta burn.

Nice line, a bit awkward climbing at the first pitch

Good route with one slabby part at pitch 2 that has not good pro.

Good route, crux at the roof. Watch your rope that it will not get stuck in the crack

Really nice route with good protection

What a line and the crux is quite short and has good protection.

2 tries