线路 in Utah for selected grade

Approach: From the main crag look south and you will see a small spire protruding into the skyline, this is the route. A small amount of bushwacking will get you to the base (41.209743, -111.929628).

Rack: Small cams or nuts for top portion.

Began as for Ritualistically Unclean but continue straight up through left facing corner instead of climbing through the slab. Finish at belay station.

Rack to #3

Left facing corner to bulging crack. Follow slab cracks to belay station.

Rack to #3

• Direct start variation, Flamingo Lane. Easy run out low PG.

Rack to #4

Broken arête

Climb corner finishing on left anchor

Will make you "Feel Good" after getting shutdown on the harder routes in the area. Likely the easiest route on 4X4 ledge.

This line is used to access upper routes of Nightschool wall. Finishes on 4th bolt line up first crack encountered.

Var. Nephi Direct (5.8): Climbs through bulge, generally left as a top rope.

Rack to #3

Start on face south of large arete/ left side of corner. Pass pitons continuing up and left finishing through upper dihedral.

Rack to #3

Begins in corner & climbs to rim.

rack to #3

Rack to #3, 70m rope.

Rack to #3, 70m rope.

Breaks & pods lead to corner.

Rack to #2

A bolted alpine multipitch heading up the cliff toe south of Ogden Peak and adjacent to Needles Lodge, (41.195116, -111.873204).

Small rack #.5-#2, or passive rack are recommended to supplement bolts.

1. 12 bolts. 55m. 5.8: Climbs through small roof following the face to bolted belay.

2. 2 bolts. 20m. 5.7: Scramble over and down the tops of this initial rock face. Continue up arete, bolted belay. Move belay, 20m. Class III: Move along ridge finding a small saddle below the "White Overhang" feature.

3. 6 bolts. 30m. 5.8: Climb through roof and continue up face. Look for pitons with webbing. Continue left of corner and through upper roof to bolted belay. Move belay, 1 bolt. 10m. Class III: Exposed scramble right and down passing pillar which divides final needle.

4. 2 bolts. 20m. 5.6: Continue up face right of pillar. Bolted belay.

5. 7 bolts. 35m. 5.7: Final pitches can be linked. head up face passing through an upper roof. Bolted belay, flat top out, and summit register.

Egress: Repel final needle to base of pitch 4. Scramble across saddle and easy downclimb to trail on north side leading to Needles Gondola.

Ascends east flank of final needle through a low angled corner and roof.

Rack small to #1

Begin on right trending crack then traverse under roof finishing on slab. Build anchor on ledge and walk off. Less than inspiring placements pg-13.

Rack to #2

You can begin by climbing to first bolt of No Nuts but is not necessary. Pull roof and continue up face or traverse left and around roof. Finish on face with anchors left or up and right.

Rack to #2

Thin tricky to protect route.

Rack small cams- #1, micro-nuts, ball nuts.

Thin & runout.

Small cams, micro-nuts, ball nuts.

Friction slab with almost nonexistent protection.

Small cams, micro-nuts, ball nuts.

Direct start variation, begins in alcove uphill from 5.8 Wall.

Rack nuts & small cams

1-2 pitches. Can finish on Shotgun anchors or continue to top.

Standard rack, pin below roof.

Variation: pull roof using wider crack to the right.

Standard rack

Variation: (5.11 TR) climbs overhang to the right.

Standard rack for start.

Slab climbing with crux at start.

Fun route with instant exposed arete above road. Gear is option for runout finish to anchor.

Rack #0.4-#1

Continue through roof on left trending crack passing piton. Questionable, tricky placements PG-13.

Rack small cams to #2

Starts on Avoiding the Issue and finishes left of Pterodactyl's upper roofs.

Rack: single to #3, doubles #0.75-#2.

1. ~70m. 5easy-5.6: Navigate easier terrain until the wall steepens, aiming for north side of upper roof buttress.

2. 30m. 5.6: As the wall steepens climb through horizontal breaks toward left facing corner on north side of roof buttress.

3. 30m. 5.8: Follow corner through horizontal & vertical breaks, belaying from ledge.

4. 5easy: Continue through easy broken terrain to top.

When hiking Jumpoff Canyon Trail this route is found on the Grey/Black outcropping encountered on northside of trail.

Follows corner dividing Jagged Edge & Eagles Roost.

Approach: Begin right of Bird Sh*t Crazy ~(41.273180, -111.939364).

1. 30m. 5.7: Begin on corner passing vegetation, ledges, & small alcoves to chossy ramp below rock face.

2. 35m. 5.7: Climb left facing corner then step left onto slab rock face. After slab move right following large corner. Continue through chossy terrain to to belay ledge with stacked boulders below roof.

3. 25m. 5.8: Tackle roof with break on right side. After the off-width/ squeeze slot finish on broken terrain. Belay on ledge with alcove.

4. 35m. 5.6: Head up and left from alcove on increasingly easy terrain.

Standard rack opt #4, doubles #0.5-#2.

This linkup offer quality 5.8 climbing as it traverses across Bird Sh*t Crazy, Looking Bad*ss & Eagles Roost.

Pitch 1 Bird Sh*t Crazy:

1. 40m. 5.8: Begin on arete, then corner, & finish on ramp. Pitches 2 & 3 Looking Bad*ss

2. 35m. 5.7: Climb left facing corner then step left onto slab rock face. After slab move right following large corner. Continue through chossy terrain to to belay ledge with stacked boulders below roof.

3. 25m. 5.8: Tackle roof with break on right side. After the off-width/ squeeze slot finish on broken terrain. Belay on ledge with alcove. Finish on Eagle Roost

4. 40m. 5.8:

Excellent headwall with horizontal breaks high above canyon.

Approach: as for Looking Bad*ss & shares pitch 1.

1. 30m. 5.7: Begin on corner passing vegetation, ledges, & small alcoves to chossy ramp below rock face.

2. 35m. 5.7: Exit corner onto white colored rock on right side face. Belay near arete feature right of roof.

3. 35m. 5.7: Continue up arete staying left of roofs. Belay at base of upper headwall.

4. 50m. 5.8: Finish on head wall with excellent horizontal breaks.

Standard rack, doubles #0.3-#1

Reasonably clean chimney leads to chossy climbing above.

Approach: As for Nuts About Eagles, beginning further up & right where gully transitions to chimney.

1. 40m. 5.7: Begin in chimney passing 2 major chockstones. Belay from ledge below final overhang.

2. 40m. 5.8: Finish chimney moving left at roof. Var. left face with flared cracks ~5.8. After chimney follow corner up worsening rock. Belay where appropriate before reaching choss.

3. 40m. 5.6 R: Head left on ramp to ledge then return right back to corner. Climb juggy loose corner or right hand face. Belay on better quality rock above. Var. exit right gaining Two Left Feet.

4. 35m. 5.5: Finish on easing terrain tending left.

Standard rack, doubles #0.5-#2, opt. #4

1. 25m. 5.8+: Ascend northern most, left facing corner to steep fist crack. Build belay on ledge above.

2. 15m: Follow loose corner to top out. Build belay.

Walk off to class IV gully south.

Rack to #2

Stem up middle corner using thin finger crack. 3 piton anchor.

Opt: can finish on Alzheimer's Serpent for a 2 pitch variation.

Rack to #1

Southern most left facing corner. Stem using hand crack to reach 5.7 face above. Watch for loose blocks at lower crux and runout upper face.

Walk off to gully.

Rack to #2

1. Follow corner feature through bulge. Belay on ledge.

2. Take a chimney to top out. Crack in chimney protects well. Belay from tree.

Walk off.

Rack to #3

Class 4 terrain to dihedral in middle of cliff below large bowl. Ascend left face with minimal gear. Continue up left side of bowl through south facing dihedrals.

Approach: Proceed as for London Spire eventually heading northeast/ northeast at fork near (41.400645, -112.008147).

Begin high & on the farthest lefthand side of the North Face. Follow gullies and broken faces to summit.