攀登 in Leaning Tower

First proper day in the Valley and we get sandbagged on to this by Adrian. First pitch was a rough warm up and I got pretty scared. I took an exciting fall on to an abysmal flared cam that some how held and that set the tone for the pitch. Pretty amazing though. The rest of the climbing was also hard and rad and scary. We bailed from the base of the crux as Adrian and Vic were back on the ground and we were ready to come down. Worthy.

Learning the hard way how to crack climb! Ooof

Wasn't our primary objective but had a late start so got 'forced' onto this classic. Did the first eight pitches after that it seemed a little rambly. 4 very good pitches, a few very dirty pitches. A very good day out in the shade. The third 11a pitch was the money

Two days on wall.

Avalanche wreckage approach was abit choss but the route was awesome. Very stoked to pull off 'the incinerator' first crux pitch at 11c (maybe a little forgiving at the grade but as always ill take it). Worth missing the arrow spire highline for i think. Maybe. Well never know.

With Dj (djs first wall), cool to see Jordan Cannon (plus entourage) working on dry lycra nightmare, and old mates mike and mike doing wdd in excellent style (chill, multiday) - so great to top out after benightment and hear old stories about Mikl sanbagging some lovely yank climbers.

Would encourage the use of pee bottles if your route hangs over another and bit of a longer day than expected, but you get that.

Wild.

A major dose of reality. Alpine start to get to the base early. I started up the first bolt ladder at about 5:45. Feeling nervous and shaky from the start. Short fixed p1-4 while Dave jugged. Whipped on p3 when a brass wire blew. Caught by a fixed copperhead. Passed by Pete Whittaker and partner at top of p3 who were speeding up the west face on their 'rest day'. No other parties on the tower or at the base, which was very lucky considering what was to happen later. I led the scary, loose 5.7R pitch to the intermediate belay below the beak seam, which involved transitioning from free to a hook above a questionable black alien to reach the bolts. By this stage I was pretty spooked and wouldn't have argued if Dave had suggested bailing, but it was his lead and he seemed psyched. Dave did a great job leading the beak seam and continued short fixing up the next few very steep pitches while I cleaned. Around p8 he called down to warn me about a big loose block, so I stayed put under a small roof and clipped myself to a nest of gear while I waited for him to get past it. For at least half an hour all I could see were two feet dangling almost comically over the edge of the block, while bits of sand and gravel rained down. Eventually he pulled over the top. Almost immediately I heard a terrified yell, followed by repeated shouts of 'ROCK, ROCK, ROCK!'. I think he managed to call at least six or seven times in the time it took for the block to spin through about 350 metres of empty space before exploding directly on the approach track. It was about the size of two washing machines. Once it was confirmed that everyone was still alive and Dave had nest of gear in he finished the pitch. Retreat was mentioned but discarded as a sensible option because of the crazy steepness that we'd have to bail down. Dave sacked up and led the last pitch. Topped out at about 1:50 am. Back at the car around 5. About 20 hours on the route, about 26 hours car to car.

First legit V IAD, but of course epicd on the raps haha...ha.

Super fun day out. Swinging leads with Susie.

Microtraked the lower crux pitches. Aided the traverse.

Good times!

C2f Linked all pitches lead 12 56 910. Don't link 9and 10. Off route 10, epic. Bivy+ 2 nights on wall.

A much better route than it looks as seen from the approach trail. Was surprised to insight 5.11c boulder problem. Maybe I am a closet pebble crusher after all.

350m overhanging wall next to waterfall in Yosemite did over 3 days, walked gear in 1st, slept on porteledge death like descent sucked

Aid; Linked p1&2 during the night but weather rolled in the next day

Great Overhanging Route Questionable Mashheads in place

Sweet at super steep. Could easily be taken in a day at 5 60 meter pitches