攀登 climbed between 2012-1-00 和 2012-06-30 in World by Lee Cujes having sport-cpr 或 ascent-date

2 - same highpoint (the first big move), but a little weaker. had no ability to pull up on right hand.

3 - exhaustion lap

end of day training. beyond crux, then big fall, toasted.

end of day training, fell on crux.

Used as a re-warm-up for proj.

Gear on for Sam

Gear off for Sam

1 - high point. blind clip, did first move, pulled up a bit but no power to do crux. actually strongest through the underclings I've been in ages. Really good shot. Warmed up just with the 20, 24 and got on this still warm ~10 mins.

Warm up

2 - pulled rope to clip and came off, breaking my cardinal rule. Landed 2m off the deck, excellent catch from Sam.

3 - could not sort the clip. So then put in work and discovered facing the other way and not looking at the quickdraw could be the answer. Did it a few times. Like.

1 - just bolt to bolting.

warmup

gear on for Sam

Bolted by Craig Pohlman in 2006 -- huge effort Rocky, thanks. 6m ceiling, very similar to 'A Kneebar Too Far'. For the Coolum-philes, this kind of climbing where you're flipping your feet above your head and falling into kneebars is pretty classic. [3]

Sorted a bit of beta but it was pouring and I couldn't get out to the lip which was a waterfall.

3 - Nate went up and figured a different way to clip the lower bolt, so I went up and, OMG, it helps a lot. The difference was moving one thumb a few inches. World's of difference. Okay, the game is on now. Psyche is back.

2 - to beginning of the link, couldn't clip. Wanted to sort out long sling for top bolt, could not figure any alternative clipping position - can't take a hand off. Then tried to make the lower clip easier by extending it - not possible. Came down extremely discouraged.

1 - Couldn't clip bolt. Feeling extremely strong, but flash pumped. Bouldered out the crux several times. Then started experimenting with skipping the clip. Epic falls. Climbed from the Shaden underlings all the way through and grabbed the top draw. Took fall from crux and landed 2m from ground in tree. Need to figure long sling clip method for top bolt to avoid grounding out.

Gear on and beta sorting for Sam.

Flash, but a really good flash! i.e. only had beta for first move, and placed all the draws. Super happy.

Feet off and go for it. Thanks for the gear Steve. [2]

Gear on for Sam.

Came off the slab move under the roof. Silly boy.

Geared up for Sam. It's a stiff little unit I reckon.

Was cruising, and inexplicably stopped my momentum in the crux.

In the rain. Shoulda, coulda, woulda. Final tricky move, grabbed with 2 fingers instead of 3. Silly error. Then it went dark. This is no harder than Beautiful Thing. Perfect 28.

Very obvious, did all moves straight up. A short power endurance sequence.

Excellent, Sam did great on this.

Bit more warming up. Found it helped to be confident. Just throw.

Second ascent. A good 30m fitness linkup of Duncan's which stacks the crux of a 27 into the business of a 29 with no useful rest. Takes in portions of four routes and feels like you're traversing the entire cliff. [6]

Fell on wide undercling. Why is it always so hard? Did go from start of new climbing to top clean, again. Need to begin climbing into it from lower. Nate got on it today for a play.

3x today, sneakers.

Back to it after the Dragon. Stopped at Shaden transition. Couldn't link any moves into a clean crux throw. But did go from start of new climbing to top clean.

1 - Fell on sharp hold, again, so sorted some new beta.

Into Rapunzel, warm-up

FFA. Good old linkups. Beautiful Thing into Beastly Behaviour = Well Behaved. More sustained. Quickdraw snagged my gear loop on the crux. Lucky to bump it off and keep going.

Got to the sharp sidepull, bit gassed. Glued up the hollow-sounding flake today.

Cool to get back on for a play. To crux, then dog to top.

1 - absolute crap effort, came off on Gay Abandon, brain explosion.

1 - Sussing the link bit. All fairly straightforward.

To the sharp hold on Gay Pride. Toasted.

Working session

2nd ascent of Duncan's link/extension (longer, more sustained finish) of my 2009 route Ahead Of The Curve. Thrilling to do this first shot today after the kerfuffle of yesterday and not being to even dog to the top. [3]

Dogged the shit out of it and didn't end up getting past the traverse into Collywobbles. Duncan casually climbed it cleanly yet again.

Back on with Dunc, having a play. Ah the memories.

Fell stabbing to pocket before the clip, pretty woeful. Only managed to do the crux move once today.

Arse kicked at the first bolt, so tired.

1 - that sucked. fell on move out right. feeling crap today. super pumped. learned something though about the clip. tuck right in and press hard with left foot.

Really cool low dyno (unless you're Long-arms Schimke), then a baffling upper crux which I solved with some knee-trickery. Hard to grade as the sequence is short, but hard/bizarre. It goes without saying the chalked holds way out right on Harvey Wallbanger are not in. [6]

Waterfall when we arrived. Sacrificed a block of chalk and JJ's facecloth trying to dry it. Luckily the wind picked up.

Finally figured out what to do on the crux. It's not very straightforward.

Clipped the bolt and rolled out to start the new climbing. Brick wall. Tanked. Tried the crux move and did it for the first time, left hip to the wall. The n tried 8 more times and failed every one. Not cool.

Same again, couldn't do anything after clipping the bolt. After a rest, climbed from the beginning of the new climbing to the top cleanly. So that's good.

Was hoping to do well and couldn't even clip the bolt. Faaaark.

On Vicious Wishes send day. Loose rock removed, equipped, brushed, chalked. Tried second move 20+ times without success.

After Vicious Wishes send. So, couldn't get RH to that hold. Need a name for that hold. From that and LH on slope edge ("the doubles"), did go to small edge and hold. Did also do final couple of moves of the central boulder in isolation.

FFA. 1 finger injury, 2 seasons, 28 days, 94th shot. Words cannot express how much of an epic I made this. I aim to not do this kind of shit to myself again. A link up, but wow...so cool. First 2/3 of a continuous 28, then a difficult traverse into all the business of a bouldery 31.

Went for the two in a row. Came damn close too.