攀登 climbed between 2022-06-01 和 2022-06-30 in World 如同传统攀登 或 运动攀岩 by Christoph Rauch

Tricky in the upper part, high feet are helpful. The polish doesn't help. #lastrouteoftheday

A tad longer than its right neighbour, also a tiny bit harder, but similar in style. The beautiful rock tunnel towards the end is a plus.

Short pocket pulling game. Avoid the obvious deep, brown pocket, it's full of shit (literally) and there are enough good holds around.

New route on the far left, good rock and nice moves in the middle part, with some sidepulls along the cracks.

Great wall climbing on pockets. Crux in the middle before the break. Devious little undercling: first you spot it from below but you can't really do anything with it. Then you move up so it's just in front of your belly. Remembered about it just in time, but then almost botched the onsight because I hastily slapped up to the break, hoping for a jug, but just hitting a sloper. Had to do a few insecure moves to get out of that conundrum. The upper part is easier, just stay a bit on the left and you're good.

Good #warmup, if you stay a bit left of the bolts, it's fine for the grade and not too fingery, the upper part is nice.

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I was quite nervous giving it a go without a warmup, but fortunately the first half is quite easy. Didn't make a single mistake and had plenty of time hanging the draws. Even realized there was a different solution for the top section (quite reachy but involving one or two moves less). Happy to have sent this on the last day.

Endurance beast, mostly on crimps and sidepulls with a nice rooflet start (kneebar to clip the first bolt :-D). Already a good deal of polish, but still manageable, with a few committing moves. Struggled a bit seeing what was ahead of me because the sun already came around …

The guidebook got it wrong, saying that the start is 6b and the short pitch after the first chain is 4a or so, while it's the other way round. Delicate friction moves towards the end, all in all quite enjoyable.

While there is a crack in the end, it's still basically a slab. The crack just makes the final section super easy, there's just one move at the beginning which uses the crack to get over a tricky passage. Nice and long.

Looooong 45 degree slab, getting a tad steeper at the end and with a little step in the middle. Quite entertaining. There are chains somewhere on the way, but it's certainly better to just finish to the top (and not really any harder).

Easy slab with a luxurious amount of holds, all of which you can omit, just using your feet and leaning against the wall. Can be a good way to test your slab skills.

Nice climbing along big features in the lower part. Short difficult passage at the end, just before the first chain, then suddenly super hard boulder crux on small holds to an easier finish.

Great line that takes the easiest path through the whole face. Its only fault is the second pitch, which is quite overgrown these days, therefore it's hard to even find the easiest path, which is why I navigated into some fragile structures and loose blocks and ended up at the abseil belay at the start of the route "Tridarat". This is fine, though, you can just climb down a meter to the big rock tunnel and continue with pitch 3, which draws up in a nice arch along the obvious features. Crux is an open crack with jugs but bad (or missing) footholds on the right, followed by a short, well-protected (lots of pitons) traverse to the left under a little rooflet. Pitch 4 starts with a few nice moves into the dihedral before the funny aid traverse (quite certainly, it was originally climbed using rope tension from a visible old ring further up the dihedral) along a steel cable. The short dihedral afterwards is tricky, harder than it looks. Best enjoy the view from the belay of pitch 3 if you plan to abseil, because the last anchor is behind the trees.

Enjoyable friction slab in the lower part, greasy crimps towards the end in a short vertical section. Felt brutally hard at 30 degrees in the sun.

Might have been a classic once, but then it got polished to oblivion; in addition, the locals tried to fix it by sprinkling concrete on some footholds. In the original state it might have been a (hard) 6b+, but now it seemed more like a solid 7a. Nice moves on tufas at the start (the only ones at the whole crag), then a devious little section out of the tiny cave, followed by crimps, pockets, sidepulls and finally lots of baked-on concretions. Hard until the very last move. Worthwhile despite the polish, might still be one of the best lines at the crag.

Might have been bolted just because the lines to the left and right were already polished, since it uses a lot of holds from both. The dihedral at the start is independent and quite challenging, reminded me to stretch more … Afterwards it's lots of crimps, sidepulls, and a crux on some water drop dimples or whatever you might call them, which I solved with a high heel hook on the left and a delicate mantel using the thumb on the dimples. More crimps and a few slits towards the end.

Tricky slab with a difficult section at the overlap in the upper part.

Interesting steep slab with lots of underclings (hence the name). The massive hollow flake in the middle is a bit dubious, though. Good moves.

Unfortunately, the route stops right in the middle of the brilliant, rough crack, with at least 5 meters of perfect, natural rock above. Such a waste.

Disclaimer: the rating is only valid for masochists. Traverses through the whole crag. It's already a bit sketchy to the first bolt, but the real treat awaits on the way to the second. I basically kneeled on the sandy, sloping ledge with my left leg while selecting the most solid footholds on the right. The second bolt is at least 5 to 6 meters away from the first, so falling there would get you very close to the ground in a big swing, scrubbing against the brittle rock. From the second bolt on, the rock quality improves drastically, also due to the fact that the traverse crosses the sport climbing routes, so the middle section is really fun and reminded me a bit of "Die Gelbe". Set up belay at the original belay bolt before the merger into "Karl Diener Gedenkweg" because it would have been a close call in one pitch with a 50 m rope. The second pitch is then quite short, but still enjoyable despite the rock getting dirtier again.

Started via "Weg für Verklemmte", which joins the original line quite soon (at least there are rusty old pegs next to the glue-ins). Had to set up belay on the small ledge below the roof because I didn't have any draws left. Easy traverse around the corner, leaving WFV, then up on the right via the crack. Had to struggle quite a bit with that one. Some of the holds also crumbled beneath my hands, because it's not climbed often. Quite dusty all in all.

Quite solid layback climbing, one of the harder summits in the Frankenjura. Looks more intimidating than it is, though.

Good line along the crack dihedral with nice laybacking. A bigger block at the end of the crack is brittle, but fortunately there's a nice, thin, but solid sidepull to the left of it. Finished via the right-hand exit, which is supposed to be the easier variant, but quite tough for the grade; a few balancy slab moves to the jug, then through the greenery to the summit.

Nice chimney with a slightly powerful start. The two bolts are in the right places.

Intimidating, but manageable. Good nut placements after the sling, the bolt distances afterwards aren't dangerous. Currently there's a piece of rope in the last bolt. Didn't find an anchor past the shabby sling in the rock tunnel at the lip of the finishing roof.

Had to press the crimp even harder, but it worked out.

Good climbing, funny "protection" up to the first Bühler bolt. Some pegs connected via steel wire … quite weird. The V-profile peg after that doesn't look any better. Decent placements, though. The climbing is great, mostly laybacking on big flakes. The top section is completely overgrown, unfortunately.

Wall climbing in good rock. Crux is in the lower part in the yellowish rock on smallish crimps. Juggy to the top.

Difficult, strenuous passage over the first bulge, then easier but a little splintery runout (bigger nuts possible). Good rock and nice pockets to the top.

Great dihedral, the hardest part is one slightly awkward move about two thirds up the dihedral. Easy, juggy traverse to the arête. The book case is missing its lid, unfortunately. :-( Back to the right onto the pillar and up on jugs. It's best to set up belay at the bolt on the right.

To the right after the great dihedral and via a short difficult passage to the top. Not as good as the original on the left.

↑↓ Climbed up and down a few variants. Interesting chimney labyrinth behind the crag.

UIAA 5 in the guide books, but that's ridiculous, it's just an easy chimney. Below the last block you can squeeze through a hole and continue like "Westkamin".

Quite the adventure, even more so (of course) compared to "Frostfinger" due to the traverse over the ridiculous flake (no idea how that thing is attached to the wall). I had not forgotten how delicate and bold the rest of the route was, but even though I knew what was coming, I hesitated a little in the runout to the last bolt.

Traverses left at the second bolt, which turns out to be the crux. Afterwards it gets easier, but you have to add some protection, the last bolt is a little awkward to get to. The top is nice and easy in good rock.

Cool logical line. The eponymous flake is juggy on the right, but extremely dusty in the crack on the left, which spiced up even more the fact that there's no fixed protection in the lower part of the route. The lonely bolt in the dihedral before the finish is still sensible, though.

Hard to read. Small holds in good, black rock. Not easy for the grade, but that might also be due to the dust on the holds.

Stretching the term "onsight" for this one a little due to the unpassable tree. Swung around on rope tension, then immediately continued climbing. Not 100% sure we climbed the line correctly, but since there was an old ring before the arête, it was at least a "popular" variant. Apparently, the first ascensionists originally traversed further left to the end of the chimney, then went up and back again to the arête, but this detour didn't make it into later guide books.

Starts as "Alter Gemsenweg", but then draws up over the little overhang. Easier than "Alter Gemsenweg" in free climbing terms, but felt a bit more powerful all in all.

Classic traverse, but astonishingly easy. Just follow the horizontal lines of pockets up to the northeast arête, then walk up to the ledge. The next two moves are the crux (originally done by pulling the gear, of course), then again easy to the ledge.

The "easiest" way to the summit from the plateau … or so they say. In fact, it's a little boulder problem to the ring, quite powerful. Afterwards, you're just laybacking up the big flakes, but a cam is sensible.

This is the original second pitch of "Alter Gemsenweg" and indeed a fantastic finish. Spectacular, airy, but easy crack climbing.

The good fingerlock in the crux makes it relatively easy for the grade, especially compared to the rest of the 8s here. Careful on the way to the second bolt. Good line along the overhanging crack. Ends on the ledge, you can either finish with "Berglustweg" or "Südwand".

#repeat Now with glue-ins instead of pegs in two places. No entries in the summit book since I was here in March …

#repeat Such a good line. The sidepulls under the first roof were a bit slimy today, but they're large enough. Love the airy jug finish.

Didn't feel as desperate as I remembered it, but the first few meters from the ledge are quite intense.