攀登 in World by Niko Eltarenko

Misread the V8 Topo and climbed this problem. Felt cool enough to be an official problem. Basically avoiding all of the good holds, climb the aggressive, small crimps all the way to the victory jug. Took three goes to complete. V3 felt fair

Classic! But V6 this ain't

Much better than it looks

Cool problem. A couple of goes today before heading to the cave area. Almost topped out at my last attempt; make sure you brush the topout, it requires some friction

Fucking awesome! A must do for anyone who is staying in the campsite nearby.

Damn this thing is slippery. But oh so good!

Good one Niko. On my first run managed to split two of my old finger wounds wide open... Then kept trying to send this with only my index and ring finger operational.

So I am back where I was before with some progress made. Can one arm lockoff and then match inside the "Huecko" followed by very low percentile double toe hook and grab sequence. Still a little off. Need to figure out as to why it works sometimes and not others... At the end of my session discovered how some people think that this problem is soft. See V6 Aquarius, any problems/suggestions feel free to start a discussion.

So. Added this route to fix the "softness" of the V7 as experienced by some people who told me about the "alternate beta". Discovered by pure accident right at the end of my session what they meant by that. In a nutshell one can topout by simply heel hooking the lower lip and then pulling up to the topout holds. While being a hard move, this circumvents the one arm lockoff and (my) double toe hook crux moves of the V7. The route is still excellent and gets a proposed grade of V6 no F/A.

Excellent! Felt soft but I had an advantage where I could really compress inside the starting holds.

Took 5 goes to send. Short'n'Sweet

You will go hedge trimming; but it's worth it. Definitely give those upper holds a brush before you jump on; they are full of dirt and leaves.

Alright so I watched a youtube video of a guy sending this and realised I had to throw up with my right rather than my left. So... reversed hands; holy crap; yep definitely a V8 now. Can get to the desperate bulge; can not for the life of me bump my hand to the next hold. Even holding that pose requires everything I can possibly give. Need to train harder to acquire beast mode; alternatively if I could make gravity weaker....

Awesome! Surprisingly within my reach, just need to keep rolling the dice on the throw as the hold was slightly damp.

A quick warmup and a warmdown lap. Quite easy for my bodytype.

Damn. Tried so many different ways. None of them better than the others. Might be still slightly above my paygrade for the time being.

Lapin' to warm up.

Sent. But almost at the ultimate price of snapping my ankle in half. Learned the hard way that the heel hook if positioned as far forward for the most amount of reach may lock in place as you fall. Thank god for spotters. In the end it was the sideward toe hook/drop knee hybrid that did it. Got the match fully static with no swing by having my right foot still inside the mega bulge.

Have managed to get to the last move six times today. Got the rim of the finishing jug with the knick of my fingertips. Finding the throw hard to reach even with full commitment and 6 pads bellow.

So, Leo wasn't in mars today; the moon was full and the horoscope spelled doom. Yeah; didn't send it. How did you guess - Seriously close though

Kneecap and Shin destroying. Don't say I didn't warn you.

The pinch (under the conditions I had) has become climbfit/sissy crag quality kind of hold. Caked in chalk and smooth to the point where I would slip off if tried holding on harder.

Misread it as V7... Solid progress with single rail line toe/heel hook beta. Had to leave before I could work the latter break.

On the softer side of a V5. Very low on the start. Excellent!

Awesome!

V5 if you're short. Tried 8 different ways all together. Most ways resulted in my knee hitting the roof or my torso whacking against the upper lip. Found an undercling in the roof; one arm bicept curl brought the send home.

Ha! Almost flashed it. Again that bloody long shared throw at the end got me. This micro crag is like being stuck on an island with really rare Pokemon. Trying to catch them all with only a few crappy pokeballs and no way of getting more.

Abysmal failure all round today. 6th day in a row climbing and 2hrs pumping iron last night proven to me that I should have just taken a rest today. We live and we learn; or you know, perceiver with ignorance.

Putrid Feet; really wrecks your shoes. Interesting how the rock can be so solid yet so crumbly and perishing at the same time. Not quite sure how to match on that ledge.

Couldn't reach the starting pocket in any way.

It seems that my memory is not the best when it comes to climbing. Could hardly recall any of the developed beta. But managed to tick it. Awesome!

Agh! Could not remember any of my (ex) refined beta. After finally sending the V5 only had strength for a few good attempts.

A couple of goes. I feel like a right hand throw may be better than the left, but is bloody hard to achieve. Will try a different way next time.

Quick couple of ascents but with a different beta from Matt. I like it!

A couple of quick fangs for 15min after work.

Raining today. Figured a way to get to the ramp now. Now have some funky knee jam/pull beta. May been able to send it if all the stars aligned. We'll see!

Warm-up. A little pumpy

And sent! However conditions were less than favourable. Damp holds all the way! Very good problem.

Ran out of light; got the right beta for the ramp topout; tried the problem from the start once but couldn't completely link it up. I like it!

I can not remember the last time I had this much fun working a problem. Excellent. A little bit sad that its now over. Moving on to fat woman now; (the problem).

Super acrobatical. Love working this problem. Can now link it all the way from the campus break to the end. Will be sent!

What a magnificent roof! Completely in my style. Plus completely dry in today's light drizzle. All the moves have been done. Now to link this beast!

Tried 2 times, extremely chossy.