攀登 in World as various tick types by Stephen Winnacott

Wild

Very cool.

Lower section felt good, upper crux hand sequence botched, gotta remember to cross.

Holy smokes that 40m second pitch is mind blowing, it just keeps on going. Super fun twin parallel finger cracks lead rightwards to a short thin vertical finger crack, into an insane finger-locking good crack all the wall up a sustained left leaning dihedral. Take lots of small cams, and small/med wires, and a double rack up to BD2's, there's a couple of wider sections of crack up high before it fully thins out into the top crux before you have to run it up to the anchors. Happy to have sent this second shot, after having done it on second a couple of month prior.

New crag, first impressions are great, this left wall has some really quality granite and houses some super enjoyable routes. All well protected too.

This route is absolutely awesome, tricky start to a really enjoyable long and well protected climb, and the view down Howe Sound from the top!

Warm up TR

Classic, tech slab open stem corner.

As good as it gets for the grade.

Took a huge whipper, while moving to the jug above the 4th bolt, stopped 1m off the ground. Soft catch! Don’t approve of the 3rd and 4th bolt placement. It was fun though, got the blood pumping.

A bit stiff for a warm up but manageable

Rock gets chossy up high

Epic route. Ended up doing 3 laps all up, as did Paul, linking it all bottom to top clean on the 3rd push. I pink point the 1 & 2 pitch after a lap working out the beta, then Paul got the red point and I followed it up clean on my 3rd lap, then continued on to onsight the final pitch, parched and glycogen depleted. Good solid day out.

Came back for redemption on this, got it, but not without a fight.

A #5 would be handy

Skipped P1 by walking to base of P2, onsighted P2, belayed Paul on his onsight of P3 crux pitch, then he lowered off and I flashed it on his gear, was either that or clean it on second but I'm stoked to get it clean even if the gear was pre-placed.

Got the knee bar, got the tick, a surprise send. Thanks to Justin Giles!