线路 in World for selected grade

An impressive crack in an unlikely position. The first pitch is 38m of glorious and sustained corner crack, one of the finest single trad pitches of the grade in the mountains.

Initially led with a rest on the first pitch circa 2007 by Simon Opper and Andy Myers.

Access by 2 raps down Charlie Don't Surf followed by the Monteith Memorial Traverse. Alternatively, fix and rap an 80m rope and swing across on the traverse bolts to ledge.

1. 38m Gr. 24 From spacious ledge, head up corner crack to belay on ledge.

2. 30m Gr. 20 Continue up steepening corner crack. Once around first few roofs follow an obvious escape left onto slab. Continue up to ledge and DBB.

While this would be the line of the route, a more enjoyable and sustained outing would be to finish up the second pitch of Charlie Don't Surf. Or even better, climb it as a single ledge to ledge mega pitch and stick to the crack for the finish, 60m just makes it.

Recommended Rack:

1 x #1 C3 (red), 1 x #2 C3 (yellow), 3 x #0.3, 3 x #0.4, 2 x #0.5 to #3, 1 x #4, Small-Medium Wires

Optional: #6 Cam for the very start (an extra 0.5 is also suitable as an inferior placement), extra #0.3 and #0.4 cams (recommended), extra #2 and #3 cams.

Right to left staying below the choss ledge at the end. A good pumper - grade 25?

Sit start below the hollow bone feature just to the right of the access slope on the water side of the boulder. Up past a good flat hold to a big throw over the top.

Sit-start with large rail and climb up the face.

Video

Sustained, technical climbing.

'M' at start of climb.

Fixed draws

Start on the right arete and climb up left on edges to top out over the peak.

5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Sit start on the flakey jugs near the center of the boulder. Move up and left to top out using the big sidepull.

Traverse high break from large chalked horizontal jug to a point where you can drop down via a good pocket/jug to the starting hold of Chinese Nuggets (monster bucket midway across). Continue though to jug at the end of the traverse line, then up to match on big sloper.

Starts with a slab on good holds, which transitions into a lay back. This leads to a good rest at the top before tackling the roof through pumpy moves.

On the right side of 'Life of Leif'. 9 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Starts up corner then break into unlikely double huecos. Finishes up little arête 5m right of bliss. Recommend stick clipping 1st bolt.

Sit-start with underclings as for Hot Chocolate. Paste your feet on and crank to the pointy jug with your left, match and then more easily up to jugs on traverse line.

A long and pumpy euro enduro route straight up the guts of the orange wall. THE crag classic! The start is a weird awkward corner. Watch rope length on the lower-off.

Start about 2m L of the corner (Slobbery Dog) and up then big move left. Lungey stuff.

Gabriele G

Jorge Packer

Crimpy

Sit start with the a left edge and right hand pocket and head straight through the roof via a slopey rail followed by a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs.

Start as Babylon but head left below small overlap to climb the underside of 'the hull'. From arete jug harder moves left gain the crack in the back of the corner then punch up to finish at monster jug. Slab on left out (obviously).

Long and closely bolted route finishing right of the dihedral. Easier climbing leads to a steeper finish on pockets and crimps. Perma draws the whole way. 60m rope sufficient.

Start low and traverse right until it is possible to mantle. Slopes and hooks are abundant here. Classic frictiony slopers.

Careful on the runout finish.

Start in the left of the main cave, a few metres left of Nomads.

5 bolts to finish in the middle of nowhere. Lower off the last or back clean it. The finish is fairly juggy but you really wouldn't want to blow the last clip.

Powerful pumpy start onto a wall with good holds and a fun bridging section between the tufas.

Be very careful with the loose flakes on top of the tufa! Shares the top section and anchor with 'Motörhead'.

Up to breaks then long throw to one of the three knobs and tough mantle.

Start: Sit

Dyno from the 2 huecos to the jug.

First of the up problems, from the big sandy footledge move out via two reasonable slots to finish up and right.

Starts with one hand in the jug on the right side of the cave and one hand on the starting hold for 'West Nile'. Move up to the lip and top out at the prow.

Two hard cruxes that favour the tall.

Up the arete with the awful landing. High but the crux is down low.

A few meters of fingery bouldery moves lead you to a section of long moves on open holds split in between with proper rest. A final sequence on positive slab is testing your ability to stay focused. More run out than other climbs in Linan.

Very nice route, the name of the route is written on the rock in blue ink in a yellow box, hard to find.

A large traversing line. First three bolts as for Flexion (long draw on second), then layback the monster flake to stance. Clip FH on R, then edge R-wards across the blank slab for about 8m to the point the line skyrockets up through the roof (super). The route keeps going up the headwall for about 10m on superb stone. Take some long slings. A 60m rope is more than sufficient as it’s a traverse.

Follows the rib and crack feature right of Lust. Starts 4m left of Blades of Glory. Up slab, then left to good stance on dark block. Move left to base of prominent white rib feature and follow this to the top of the pod. Shift right into corner and up to orange roof. Move left into final crack which joins Lust at its final resting jug (3 moves from its finish).

About 5m right under little roof. Great long pumper, a must if you can climb the grade.

Start with both hands inside the undercling on the far left. Then traverse left to right on the lip. The roof is out.

A long and varied Berdorf classic. Make sure to climb it before the sun hits the upper crux.

Start at 'Hanger Wall', 1m L of usual 'Brisbane Bitter' start.

Climb past first 5 BRs on 'Hanger Wall' clipping 2 or 3, then join the usual 'Brisbane Bitter' line at its 2nd RB.

Guidebooks 7a/+. 8a.nu consensus 7a/+.

Very nice line that, for some reason, gets much less attention than the popular and always busy 'Lal Bab' or 'Babes in Thailand', although it is just as good. A bit of an awkward stemming start to get onto the thick stalactite. Some nice 3D climbing towards the small roof, which is actually easier than it looks once you've sorted out the beta. All titanium bolts.

Up the flake to the top and mantle away.

Start: Sit M.G Chino

Sit start.

Starts 4m right of Dead Man Walking at log start. Similar to Mountain Ant on water washed featured rock and a distinct crux above the bulge.

Starts slightly right of the original line. Head directly up using holds in the original line as left hand holds and minimal right hand holds (sidepulls) to one very long dynamic move at the end.

A fantastic route up a superb line. 3m L of QQ. Stick dip first bolt, batman up to obvious jug, then up the crimpy wall to the crux past the last bolt.

Start just L of small roof, a few metres R of 'Ruddiocracy'. 7 FHs. Finish at same chains as 'Tour de France' & 'Serial Driller'.

Climbs the huge tufa. Originally graded 5.11b! It seems a hold broke at the start making it 5.11d or even 5.12a. The boulder start is the crux.

Start low on the big hole and move powerfully up via the slopey pocket.

No 90 in 2009 Guide

No 83 in 2003 Guide (map 2)

Afternoon sun in winter

Highball (6 metres) slightly overhung face route. Crux is the first move (big) but a tricky finish awaits.

A shortish arete with some immaculate climbing. Technical, balancey and a brilliant classic. Stay on the right side.

Stellar line from the ground to the anchors. Doesn't get much better at the grade. Technical thin crimping with a sustained pumpy finish. Stay tight and learn to fight.

Fantastic climb!!!! Careful on the raps, knot end of ropes to be sure!

The 5.12a can be french freed.

[dagibbs edit note, 2012] Neither Dane's guide (The Whole Enchilada, 2007) nor Ed's book (Climb El Potrero Chico, 17th ed 2012) mention this route, or anything similar to this route in this area. But, there is a topo for the Outrage Wall in the back of Ed's book that diagrams "Jambo Bwana (TWZ)" beside the Surf Bowl. So, this pretty clearly is the first few pitches of TWZ (until the first garden). Maybe TWZ was only bolted part way when this was first posted? Or the climber thought the 3rd class was the end? [/edit note]

The approach is long, follow the spire path and keep going, the route is on the far left [edit: actually far right] of the Surf bowl. Still very chaucy rock, needs more ascents to clean the route. The crux pitch is made harder in part due to the crimper holds crumpeling while most inconvinient. There is a fixed rope at the top, to rap the top pitch.

-z- you are correct, JumboBwano was the original route, and Timewave was added from the 3rd class ledge. It is in my 2001 guide ... Timewave was added in 2003 I think. Ed and I tried for the 2nd ascent, but were overtaken by a simul climbing Mexican team. They were not going to let us take the 2nd! We only made it to the eighteenth pitch, and they past us on the way down before we got done!

P1: 4 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P2: 9 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P3: 8 Bolts (3 bolt anchor) P4: 7 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P5: 8 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P6: 9 Bolts (3 bolt anchor) Traverse pitch P7: 3 Bolts (3 bolt anchor) P8: 4th class P9: 10 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P10: 9 bolts (4 bolt anchor) traverse P11: 8 bolts (3 bolt anchor) P12: Ledge for overnight bivy P13: 6 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P14: 6 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P15: 9 bolts (3 bolt anchor) P16: 9 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P17: 7 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P18: 8 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P19: 6 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P20: 7 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P21: 10 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P22: 7 bolts (2 bolt anchor) P23: 6 bolts (1 bolt anchor) ridge traverse

A stiff boulder on pockets makes for a harsh change of style, when compared to other routes of the sector or island. Not an easy tick.

10 th route . on of the first lines in the cave but not the first one since Canek & Mudo bolted virus de gallina and arbolito first, they were left uncomplited , many years later Alex Catlin finished them both adding more bolts . this 5.12 a is really good, climb left into a steep section, pull through sloppers ,find your rest and keeo moving through crimps ,sidepulls and balancy reachy moves into cracked dehedral.

Starts about 5m R of "Master's Apprentice". Perfect little sport route with some lovely pockets. Start off block, up orange wall on good holds to final tricky bulge. It's a nice grade 21 warm-up to 6th bolt. 7 U-bolts.

Start 2m right of C on scooped arete in cave. Up arete and out past dodgy looking (but very solid) surfboard. Hard move around lip and up.

Has its own anchor now, and is therefore an independent line, not going into robbing hood.

A great 2 pitch outing, though doing the entire route in one pitch is recommended. The dead tree has long since disappeared, so now you have to climb the wall to get off the ground! Double bolts now reside over the top, just below the summit block on its right side.

Start just right of Hi Mum! at bolt-protected wall.

1. 20m (23) Up wall past bolt and through right-leading line to ledge. Traverse left into right-hand flake and follow this until able to climb wall to semi-hanging belay below roof. Make sure the anchor can withstand an upwards force!

2. 15m (24) Up right-curving flake, back left to small overlap. Up headwall a few moves then traverse right, demanding with plenty of exposure, for a few metres then go up to anchor (30 metre rappel)

Thin route just right of the block on the ground. Stand start on matching crimps and move up to high top out.

1. (23) 22m Start next to ramp about 50m left of waterfall. Hard move off the ground (if u pull on the draw take a grade off) then up and slightly right to belay.

2. (24) Up to big rest underneath roof, then suck it up and traverse right to lip, up slab. BRING PRUSICS FOR SECOND, as they might end up in space. Kind of airy, kind of scary!!!

Sit start at the north end of the boulder, traverse the lip to the south end and match on the 'high' jug.

The testpiece of the wall. 'Required' qualification for the Lindfield Hardman badge. Scene of chip/fill shenanigans in the past. Classic. Chips have recently been filled in (Aug 2017).

Super fun, challenging climb. Sit start left of vertical drill line, using two gaping holes. Move right and up to finish with your head touching the manky roof. Pivoting, smears, laybacks and slaps makes this a truly intricate, technical climb.

If you don't mind Beta - check out this 3 star wonder here - http://youtu.be/81_X2kNe1Xo

Matthew Ritchie

The pocketed line on the white streak. Cruise pockets all the way to a tricky finish!

Sit start right of WYWH. Head up the thin arete/tufa to top out. Despite the hollowness, the rock is solid. Mauricio Chino

Start on 2 crimps, pop up to line of rails and traverse out to jugs for top match.

Stand start on the arete and climb it on its left side.

Sit start on the same holds as Caterpillar. Move left to a crimp and an edge before making a big move to the break.

Stand start with good RH on arete and big feet. Pull on static and move to same finger pocket of Arabesque, then trend left and up the high slab. Finish on far Left at top of boulder. First accent not known.

A unique route for Brooyar, 8 UBs to DBB (long slings recommended for 3rd and 6th).

Sit Start using right hand edge and left hand edge. Traverse left using slopers and a fingery side pull then head up arête on minimal features to top out.

Start at the bottom beside Angel of Calcutta. A nice (hard) boulder problem starts after the second bolt and finishes at the fourth. Easy climbing to the top.

A unique, extra-large tufa fin.

A direct start to Arabesque Left. Stand start with good R crimp and slopey left crimp. Tiny footholds to begin, giving way to very high feet and delicate movement. If you are still on, finish as for AL. Do not escape to the arete on the left- climb the face.

Popular. Start as for TC.

Blast straight up and over the small roof (BRs) to the obvious "eye". Continue straight up the wall (BRs) to double bolt belay. 8 BRs in total.