条目 in Cheynes Beach Boulders

Varied and generally solid rock offering a range of classic boulder problems. **At the time of writing there are ~250 boulder problems established from VB/0-V10/11 with some hard projects still to go.

Easy access and a good selection of easy to moderate climbs on solid orange granite.

Easy access – park at the tourist carpark before the 4WD track. Walk in is negligible! A great area to start at with fun warm ups and some classic moderates.

Lots of easy lines with plenty of link ups. What’s listed are some of the straight up lines, but there’s plenty of jugs all over making for some fun traverses and eliminates. Go forth and warm up!

Sit start.

Sit start matched on the flat blocky hold.

Sit start. Often wet.

Need a day of low swells and tides...

Crouch start with good hold on the right and low left hand with crack and up following the crack.

Sit is still a project as the feet are ways wet

Sit start with juggy undercling hold. Up easy jugs.

Sit start. Up the obvious jug flake.

Sit start. Up the face with good edges avoiding the jug flake on the left. A tad contrived.

Sit start and up the twin cracks.

Sit start as for 'Left Face' and traverse right to top out via 'Twin Cracks'.

Crouch start. Compress the aretes and up.

Stand start on good edge and straight up. Short and sweet.

Solid boulder sitting right on the ocean with some great easy to moderate lines. The pick of the bunch is definitely the classic arete 'A Little Corner of Paradise'.

Sit start matched in the crack on the far right. Traverse left then around the corner to topout with various jugs. Fun Warm up.

Sit start matched on the crack. Up the arete and left face with awesome moves. A classic. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=157

Stand start. Up the obvious jug system on the left of the wall.

Sit start matched on the crack then around to join the jugs of ‘Birds of Paradise’.

Stand start. Up the left-most crack.

Stand start.

Stand start. Up the face right of 'Living the Dream'.

Sit start. Up the corner with interesting moves.

Stand start. Up the next corner crack.

Up the vague seam. Optional sit.

Sit start. Up the far right corner crack.

Sit start. Up the face right of ‘Nowhere to Hide’.

Sit start. Up the parallel cracks and topout directly for the full value line. Escape left has also been done.

Sit start with good holds and up the face with jugs.

Sit start with flat left hand and right hand in the crack. Up the arete and left onto the face.

Harder contrived variant up the right face using only the crack of you are so inclined.

Sit start with rounded jugs. Basically just an easy topout trainer…

Sit start with jug and up the slab.

Sit start with arete and thin seam and up.

Sit start left hand flat hold and right hand undercling with low feet and up and right.

Obvious wall with a beautiful backdrop.

Tricky sit start. Up with arete and face. Balancy. left sidewall is out. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=100

Up with the left side wall in.

Stand start with underclings. Up the finger crack. Awesome. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=12

Stand start right hand slopey pinch on the arete and left hand blocky crimpy undercling. Up using the left face and steep arete, avoiding going around the corner to the right. Marginal and hard. Very cool.

Stand start. Up the vague runnel between the two aretes with cool moves on slopey holds. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=65

Sit start with left hand in the good slot on the arete and low right hand.

Sit start and up the corner.

Easy slab stuff.

Right under the car park. Often wet - so look for those magical low swell days and avoid easterly swells.

Over the perpetually present puddle… Stand start with crimp. Tricky moves to start.

Stand start and up to jugs.

Stand start with good holds. Nice and easy. Use the face and corner.

Awkward sit start with crack. Tricky start move into the easy stand.

Sit start with the flake system. Tricky moves up the face.

The clusters offer some high but easy climbing on sharper rock. 'Life's A Beach' is a must do from this area.

Sit start in break. Up with the vague arete. Pretty cool. https://youtu.be/HMUh04AMP1g?t=6

Vague steep seam.

Sit start. Up the obvious corner crack.

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

Easy Jugs.

Sit start. Up the lowball crack.

Stand start with the high flat hold. Up the face. Watch out for the boulder behind you.

Sit start on the left with the arete. Traverse right with thin crimps and tricky feet to join the original.

Sit start and up the arete. Thin.

Sit start. Up the high and well featured face. Will get less chossy with some attention. Cool.

Stand start. Up the high face.

Sit start under the mini roof with left hand undercling and right hand sloper on the arete. Come out to the obvious horn looking hold and then up. A bit tricky and awkward but cool.

Sit start. Easy peasy.

Lying down start with the low break. Chuck a heel and power for the next break. Avoid dabbing the boulder on the right. An exercise in ultimate lowballing. V-Whoknows...maybe V3?

Sit start under the overhang with good pockets and up with jugs. Avoid dabbing!

Awesome roof climbing on beautiful gloden granite right on the ocean.

Sit start matched on the flat jug at the back of the roof. Climb the roof with fun moves through the jug system and exit directly with awesome moves into a slightly exposed finish. https://youtu.be/HMUh04AMP1g?t=128

Start as for 'Benders Amazing Roof'. Trend right into the large obvious sidepull and up into jugs and an easy topout. https://youtu.be/HMUh04AMP1g?t=60

Sit start with opposing holds (left hand diagonal seam and right on vertical seam). Up with burly compression moves and bunchy feet. Classic.

Crouch start left hand on vertical seam and right hand on bulge. One hard move up to jugs.

Deep water solo area. 7 lines on the wall plus a traverse. A couple of easy problems done near by, but nothing to write home about and therefore they have been omitted from the guide due to laziness..

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

Well featured wall by the ocean. Magic during whale season with a great view of the bay. More potential around from the wall that I've never bothered getting back to...

More of a scramble than a boulder problem. Gets the heart going up high.

Up the obvious crack.

Crouch start on the left. Avoid the boulder on the left. Up and right into an easy topout.

Sit start. Straight up the middle of the wall into an easy top.

Sit start as for ‘ Whale Song’, traverse right following the undercling flake and then back around to topout. https://youtu.be/V9MTsGop4ZQ?t=130

Another scramble. Up the obvious crack then escape right under the overhangs.

Far right scramble.

Boulders near the striking 'Nose' feature of 'The Nose'. Only a handful of established lines but definitely some potential. The rock is a bit chossier than other areas and has required more cleaning.

Easy lines on the slanted left wall. Some choss still but most of the obvious lines have been done..

Sit start and up the slabby face. Optional fun eliminate using only face holds.

Sit start. Up with the arete and right face.

Sit start and up. Easy moves in the roof and a tricky lip encounter.

Might go. Might not... Maybe for someone much stronger than me!

Sit start and up leftish

Sit start and traverse left and exit up left with the vertical break. A bit contrived.

Chossy line. Sit start with pockets and up with jugs.

Sit start matched on the large undercling flake then up. Cool.