Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 岩场 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | 日期 | |||
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Trad | |||||||||
29 | ★★★ Prowling for Leftovers - with Ellen, Nut Busting Unicorn | 27m, 8 | Arapiles | 星期二 25th 4月 2023 | |||||
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Bodin Pollard | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期天 8th 11月 2015 | ||||
Best route I've been on at Arapiles and now the subject of my obsession. Crux (just after the long reach in the picture in the guide) is cool but hard. Hand jam rest after the powerful start, and no-handers on the blocks next to Thunder Crack before the crux will help, but it's still on for a long way after the crux too. Even the lichenous vertical headwall is no gimme. "Direct Finish" seems a little contrived to me (seems more like a LHV) given the route basically tracks 2-3m left of TC ...
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | 星期一 25th 1月 2016 | |||||
For the first time in 20 years, I left a leaver-biner behind. That's okay though because I left the ground knowing I'd probably do that. Whoever get's my red w/yellow gate leaver-biner, treat her right she has been with me through thick and thin, faithfully holding my shoes to the back of my harness. Great route - thought I'd gotten through the crux at the balancey bit up high but there was another harder crux immediately afterwards which I couldn't do this time. Nice route though!
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28 27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期天 22nd 10月 2017 | ||||
Super proud line. Defo well hard for 27, more like 28.
Tricky start, then rad jug hauling to a sustained V6 ish section near the top. Terribly bolted but nothing some long draws can't fix. |
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | 星期六 31st 8月 2019 | |||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | 星期一 7th 12月 2020 | |||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期五 3rd 12月 2021 | ||||
Hard, gotta come back
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 7th 4月 2022 | ||||
Quick burn to suss the moves. All feels doable but that crux is gonna require some oomf
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Bradd Jimmink, Lucas Marie | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期天 17th 4月 2022 | ||||
What a serene parable of a climb. Didn’t even think something of this level was possible after 3 months laid off with injury. Looked across at the line from the bath atop Clytemnestra just as the sun struck it this morning, visualised the moves and thought “that’s going today”. And go it did. Perhaps the most ataraxic climb I’ve ever done. What an experience. What a route. What a place
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Will Grant | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期二 26th 4月 2022 | ||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Will Grant | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期二 26th 4月 2022 | ||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with danny wade | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期二 26th 4月 2022 | ||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with danny wade | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期二 26th 4月 2022 | ||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Swena Zheng, Chloe Fu | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期二 3rd 5月 2022 | ||||
Unreal. Felt like a proper quest in the dark. Didn’t get to the top.
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期四 26th 5月 2022 | ||||
A fairly outrageous looking line, especially when i had a look while rapping down. Quite happy that i got to the crux clean on toprope, but i predictably got completely shut down at the crux. What a combo of reachy moves, tension, body position and a bunch of shit holds.
The sequence felt great to work through - got most of the moves individually and the rest were cut short by the impending rain. Would be an absolute pumpfest getting through the crux and then the sustained finish too.
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Derwood | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期三 18th 1月 2023 | ||||
27 ~28 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Lizzie Stokes, Ellen, Andrew Connolly | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期一 13th 3月 2023 | ||||
A mega classic! Quite tough for 27 I think. It has an outrageous crux sequence, with some wild pinchey, crimpy, underclingy moves. Then into quite sustained climbing up the top.
So stoked to have ticked this beast of a climb today! ^_^ Beta Vid: 👉 https://youtu.be/lyI97ry-Pa4 |
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27 ~28 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Lucas Marie | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期二 14th 3月 2023 | ||||
Cleaning Lucas's gear felt like an anti-climax after his send, but a great opportunity to get the beta (thank-you !) while it was nice and fresh.
Maybe 24/25 up to the start of the crux sequence then a nails V6 ? for 7 (hand) moves on shit holds with a lot of body tension before a lovely but completely blowable finish. I could imagine getting to the crux clean - possibly even next shot - but then failing at various points for the next 50 or so attempts before quitting climbing. Maybe I'll change my mind as I try it more, but for now, this feels sandbagged to the extreme. |
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27 Hard | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 15th 4月 2023 | ||||
Pretty chill for the first part, then it gets HARD. Didn’t put the crux together, not sure if I’ll try again this trip or not
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | 星期六 13th 5月 2023 | |||||
Keen to get back and and work this crux. The climbing up to it is beautiful
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27 Hard | ★★★ FinaI Departure — 3 attempts - with @1293 | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期二 16th 5月 2023 | ||||
What a ripper. Mega quest up an imposing wall with a bouldery crux. 3rd shot.
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Jeremy | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期四 11th 5月 2023 | ||||
One of my favourites, full package for sure. 3rd Shot.
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27 Hard | ★★★ FinaI Departure — 2 attempts | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 21st 10月 2023 | ||||
Inspiring climbing
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期天 22nd 10月 2023 | ||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期天 3rd 12月 2023 | ||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with j wiz | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期五 5th 1月 2024 | ||||
27 ~28 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with some guy named Malcolm | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | 星期五 2nd 2月 2024 | |||||
This climb was hard. I can’t fathom how Kim gave this 27 and Masada 29. I’d switch them, but what would I know?
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27 ~28 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期二 2nd 4月 2024 | ||||
So epic! Can see this going next session, just gotta dial the crux in more! Can see it feeling like low-end 28 from the ground, keen to get back on it!
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27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期四 4th 4月 2024 | ||||
What do I do in the crux beta pleae😅
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27 ~28 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期五 5th 4月 2024 | ||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Jayden Bennett, Dad | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期一 15th 4月 2024 | ||||
A bad warm up. One very unsuccessful go in the dark two years ago that didn’t get to the top, one go two days ago, and one go today. Adrian sent Punks so I couldn’t not do it. Quality peanut gallery support from Dad who arrived just in time for the send.
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27 Hard | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Jo, Victor, Jules | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期三 17th 4月 2024 | ||||
Last go, last day, last light kinda thing..
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21 | ★★ Jenny Wren | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | 星期二 13th 4月 2010 | |||||
21 | ★★ Jenny Wren | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ 好 | 星期五 25th 3月 2005 | ||||
With Ed, Dodgy gear
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21 | ★★ Jenny Wren | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | 星期一 13th 1月 1986 | |||||
21 | ★★ Jenny Wren | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期三 28th 4月 2010 | ||||
direct start hard, love the retrobolt
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21 | ★★ Jenny Wren | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | 星期二 14th 10月 2014 | |||||
20 | ★★ Jenny Wren - with Chris and Betty | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ 好 | 星期天 14th 12月 2014 | ||||
The guidebook says that it is atmospheric. We will now take it to mean runout!
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21 | ★★ Jenny Wren - with Thara & Betty | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 14th 12月 2014 | ||||
Spider filled holds and solid runouts! Pretty serious judgement day style traversing in ground fall zone getting to the bolt on the arete. This one gets an R rating from me.
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21 | ★★ Jenny Wren - with Chris and Thara | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ 好 | 星期天 14th 12月 2014 | ||||
needs an R rating!
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21 | ★★ Jenny Wren | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期三 11th 10月 2017 | ||||
Sat once at second bolt. Then clean to top. 5 bolts plus an old carrot and a piton. Not really any other useful gear but the harder climbing is off the bolts. Sweet stuff.
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21 | ★★ Jenny Wren | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | 一般 | 星期二 3rd 4月 2018 | ||||
Multiple falls with skin on fingertips lost at the bottom as I started too far right!
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21 | ★★ Jenny Wren - with dangerous | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 2019 | ||||
21 | ★★ Jenny Wren | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | 星期二 30th 4月 2024 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期五 3rd 11月 2006 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期二 13th 4月 2010 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期二 13th 4月 2010 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期天 31st 10月 2004 | ||||
can now feed that skeleton to the dogs
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期一 20th 3月 2000 | |||||
With Douglas (got up it with a fall)
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期二 13th 4月 2010 | |||||
way pumpy, quite physical
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期六 1st 3月 2003 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期一 10th 3月 2003 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期二 13th 4月 2010 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期六 15th 3月 2003 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 15th 3月 2003 | ||||
from there to here
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26 | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis | 27m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期二 13th 4月 2010 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期五 28th 1月 2011 | ||||
A little more fitness and I'll be back.
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期六 5th 3月 2011 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期三 31st 10月 2012 | |||||
Fell off on TR and lowered.
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期天 7th 8月 2011 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station - with Gareth Llewellin | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 24th 10月 2015 | ||||
Second day with a howling wind! I quite like this although it is old-school and wandery.
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 10th 4月 2016 | ||||
21 | ★★ Jenny Wren DS | 30m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期六 23rd 4月 2016 | |||||
Some pretty big run outs on this. Not the safest route.
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21 | ★★ Jenny Wren DS - with Karen Tempest | 30m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期五 23rd 12月 2016 | ||||
Well protected where it counts. Take small wires and a few micro-cams. Loved it.
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21 | ★★ Jenny Wren DS - with Nick Morgan | 30m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期一 9th 10月 2017 | ||||
super balancey moves with delicate footwork all the way up. run out on lead
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期三 10th 1月 2018 | ||||
Missed the very last crimp on the hard section! It's basically a sport route at the moment with a couple of fixed wires of varying quality at the last crux. #1 and #2 Camelot and quickdraws are all you need.
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 17th 4月 2018 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis - with simon bischoff | 27m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期二 17th 4月 2018 | ||||
Campus campus campus
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21 | ★★ Jenny Wren DS | 30m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期二 17th 4月 2018 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station - with Kate Riordan | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★ 好 | 星期五 19th 4月 2019 | ||||
Not nearly as hard as I remember it!
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26 | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis | 27m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期五 1st 5月 2020 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 2020 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station - with Bradd Jimmink, Ellen, Malcolm HB Matheson | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期天 3rd 4月 2022 | ||||
Super fun climbing! Hard moves with awesome rests (stations) in between. More pumpy than cruxy and good training for Final Departure. Worth all the stars for sure!
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期二 12th 4月 2022 | ||||
Is it a true onsight if I’d already done the first half when working Final Departure? Probably not. Am I still going to claim it in true BestOfTheCrag style? Heck yes. Brilliant route!
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26 |
★★★ Anxiety Neurosis
- with
Bradd Jimmink
1
26
40m
2
26
| 40m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期五 22nd 4月 2022 | ||||
Unreal!!! Never in a million years did I envision getting on this. Fortunately Brad brought the psyche and I now have another unforgettable memory to add to the collection out here. Came within millimeters of onsighting P1 then stoked with the flash of the 26 finish of P2
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期天 24th 4月 2022 | ||||
Repeat lap to set the gear for some friends
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station - with Nia O'Connor, Ryan Gaskon | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期天 24th 4月 2022 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期三 11th 5月 2022 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期六 14th 5月 2022 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station - with jack jane | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 14th 5月 2022 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期一 17th 10月 2022 | ||||
Super good but hard - Elvis was entering the building near the top.
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26 Hard | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis — 5 attempts - with Mikey Musch | 27m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 8th 4月 2023 | ||||
Attempted pitch 1 only. Lovely 3 dimensional climbing out to the traverse, then some weird stuff to get around the arete (hint, gym climbing won't help you) where we got shut down. Think I've got it figured though and can't wait to go back. 2nd pitch looks mega, will definitely try to do both pitches (in succession) if I ever get through the first bit.
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期一 22nd 5月 2023 | |||||
26 Hard | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis — 3 attempts - with Nick Murphy, Brent Anderson | 27m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 10th 6月 2023 | ||||
Still think this thing is hard
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21 | ★★ Jenny Wren DS | 30m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期四 3rd 4月 2014 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期一 18th 9月 2023 | ||||
2nd shot. First lap was a bit of a debacle, but my first redpoint burn was a controlled cruise -wasn't even pumped at the top. Super funky grampians-esque start, then a burly and technical crack and arete finale. Steep fun in an exposed position.
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 22nd 10月 2023 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期天 22nd 10月 2023 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期三 25th 10月 2023 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station — 3 attempts | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 30th 3月 2024 | ||||
Beautiful climbing
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station — 2 attempts | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 30th 3月 2024 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期二 2nd 4月 2024 | ||||
26 Hard |
★★★ Anxiety Neurosis P1
- with
Michael Lehmann
1
| 27m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 20th 4月 2024 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis | 27m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期六 20th 4月 2024 | |||||
P1, stellar!
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26 |
★★★ Anxiety Neurosis P1
1
| 27m, 4 | Arapiles | 星期天 21st 4月 2024 | |||||
So sick! I found the crux really quite hard
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station — 2 attempts | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ 经典 | 星期一 29th 4月 2024 | ||||
Ripper.
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station - with Jason Lu | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 9th 5月 2024 | ||||
24 | ★★ Allez | 25m, 3 | Arapiles | 星期二 13th 4月 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★ Goodbye To All That | 35m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ 很好 | 星期五 18th 7月 2003 | ||||
24 | ★★ Allez | 25m, 3 | Arapiles | 星期二 13th 4月 2010 |
Is this link-up Prowling for Leftovers? Does anyone here know if this has been done before?