帮助

Golden Fleece Wall Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Douglas Hockly Campbell Gome Michael 'Wonderdog' Woodrow Ben Wright Nick Miguel Ducker Cliff Barnett John Pitcairn Mikie Bob

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

部分内容经许可发布自: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Golden Fleece Wall 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

季节分布

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: -36.760367, 141.843910

描述

The cliff between Brick Wall and Moby Dick Pinnacle.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles,Central Gully Left Side Area

准入问题

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

取自Arapiles

前往

Descent is by way of a rap anchor at the right end of the wall, just L of the top of the 'Dylan' chimney. When walking from the top of the leftmost few routes, be careful of the exposed section above Jason.

© (koala)

下撤信息

Rap anchor at the R end of the wall, L of the top of Dylan's chimney. Also possible to scramble up and down the gully beside Moby Dick but this needs care.

行为准则

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

取自Arapiles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sue's Climb

Start 2m L of Pedro. Wall to bushy ledge, thin black crack, wall.

首攀: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1984

17 传统攀登 36m
2 Jed's Climb

Start as for Sue's Climb, take the flake into Pedro for a metre, then head L on the next steep blocky flake. Up wall and through bulge to join Pedro's finish. All reasonably well protected except the initial R leaning flake - take small wires.

首攀: Douglas Hockly & Jed, 2013

16 传统攀登 30m
3 Pedro

Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start). Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready.

首攀: Mike Stone, Ted Batty & Peter Jackson, 1965

11 传统攀登 36m
4 Beautiful Possibilities Direct Start

Boulder the start.

首攀: Michael Woodrow, 1991

20 传统攀登 36m
5 Beautiful Possibilities

A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them.

首攀: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1975

15 传统攀登 30m
6 Horrible Realities

Surprisingly not as good as the original. Start as for BP and go L 1m as for that route then straight up to join the finish of Jason.

首攀: Unknown

16 传统攀登 30m
7 Jason

Regularly recommended to those who can't jam. Start 3m right of Pedro. Layback and jam the water-washed corner, with technical moves L around the roof.

首攀: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger & Peter Jackson, 1966

16 传统攀登 30m
8 Beautiful Loser

Up Jason then R along traverse line to Mind Games. Up MG for 4m, including it's crux, then further R to groove.

首攀: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979

21 传统攀登 40m
9 Golden Fleece

A really good route, one of the most pleasant 18s at Arapiles. Start 3m R of Jason. Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and up thin line.

首攀: Chris Dewhirst & Peter McKeand, 1969

自由首攀: Roland Pauligk, 1974

18 传统攀登 35m
10 Possibly Beautiful

If you enjoyed Golden Fleece, you want to do this too. A little bit more tricky. Start 1m R of Golden Fleece. Up the little pillar - or step into it after a move or two. Up the thin cracks to join GF at the ledge, then up and slightly right.

首攀: John Smart & John Smoothy, 1979

19 传统攀登 28m
11 Medea's Revenge

Start as for Mind Games. Up Mind Games for 4m, then step 1m L to take faint groove straight up.

首攀: Louise Shepherd & Nicky Sunderland, 1993

21 传统攀登 25m
12 Mind Games

Start 6m right of Jason. Up past horizontal, then the groove, and head R after bulge. The hanging block at the end of the crux sounds pretty hollow.

首攀: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1978

20 传统攀登 25m
13 Get Knotted

Start 3m right of Mind Games. The seam, then join the finish of Beautiful Loser.

首攀: Kim Carrigan, 1984

24 传统攀登 25m
14 Nightlinger

The incipient corner/flake just left of Dylan has a scary start, especially since a key jug and gear block came off in 2016.

首攀: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976

21 R 传统攀登 18m
15 Systems Of Escape

An "adds nothing" R to L girdle best not written up in the first place. See notes for details.

首攀: Nick Miguel Ducker & Mike De Marco, 7月 2021

18 传统攀登 60m, 2
16 Dylan

There are 3 short chimneys at the righthand end of the wall. This is the left one and is surprisingly awkward.

首攀: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Bryan Oates, 1966

16 传统攀登 15m
17 Going to Sydney

The wall just right of Dylan.

首攀: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1984

19 传统攀登 15m
18 Anteus

The middle chimney, starting 2m right of Dylan.

首攀: Bryan Oates & solo, 1966

4 传统攀登 12m
19 Fish Doubt

The wall then the arete, starting around right of Anteus.

首攀: Chris Baxter & Brian Fish, 1984

20 传统攀登 15m
20 Gobsmacking Dick

This line is in a hanging gully right of 'Six and Out' (this is above Jason on Golden Fleece Wall) and takes the obvious crack on the right (facing in) wall.

首攀: Hoskins & Lattanzio, 1995

17 传统攀登 20m
21 Golden Nothing

Strongly suspect that this is a repeat of Gobsmacking Dick which was written up in the Operation Leo Area and described as in a hanging gully above Jason. Despite the inaccuracy, I think they're the same.

This climb is up behind Golden Fleece Wall, starting up a gully of sorts directly behind the top of Dylan.

Chimney until the slab on the left wall is too far away then pull onto the right wall. Hand-crack to start, bulge, finger-crack and on to top.

首攀: Hugh Sutton & Jonatha Hajos, 2008

16 传统攀登 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
4 Anteus 传统攀登 12m
11 Pedro 传统攀登 36m
15 Beautiful Possibilities 传统攀登 30m
16 Dylan 传统攀登 15m
Golden Nothing 传统攀登 15m
Horrible Realities 传统攀登 30m
Jason 传统攀登 30m
Jed's Climb 传统攀登 30m
17 Gobsmacking Dick 传统攀登 20m
Sue's Climb 传统攀登 36m
18 Golden Fleece 传统攀登 35m
Systems Of Escape 传统攀登 60m, 2
19 Going to Sydney 传统攀登 15m
Possibly Beautiful 传统攀登 28m
20 Beautiful Possibilities Direct Start 传统攀登 36m
Fish Doubt 传统攀登 15m
Mind Games 传统攀登 25m
21 Beautiful Loser 传统攀登 40m
Medea's Revenge 传统攀登 25m
21 R Nightlinger 传统攀登 18m
24 Get Knotted 传统攀登 25m
Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文