线路 in The Pharos and Surrounds for selected grade

Layback corner then L into the "condemned cell", which takes some escaping! Great moves continue above, trending slightly L. Top anchor is several bits of rope/tat with a mallion. Walk over the top of the pinnacle, with a short down-climb to a rap anchor behind boulder.

Start: Start at the L-facing corner at the R end of the main face.

Start as for 'Death Row' Climb the initial corner on 'Death Row' and continue straight on up the line instead of stepping left into the condemned cell. Delicate, airy moves over a bulge lead to a corner system capped by a small roof. Bridge spectacularly through the left side, or more easily on the right. Continue up wall right of the arête to the top of the pinnacle.

5 metres right of Black Box. Climb middle of orange wall using little pockets and directly up middle of slabby pinnacle although this is run out (easy escape left of right).

Steep deep wide crack. Overhangs more than most 18s! Can be bridged without much thrutching, but some large gear can be handy. Stays dry in light rain too.

Start about 20m up the gully R from CoC.

Start 8 metres left of Oceanoid, 1 metre right of the lowest part of the buttress, below corner leading to overhang.

1. 25m (18) Up vague corner to bulge, right around it and up to overhang. Traverse left then up easily.

2. 15m (18) Take right-hand crack through overhang.

Graunchy roof-crack at left end of terrace that Oceanoid Pitch 1 finishes at.

This is an OK alternative to second pitch of Oceanoid if you've been here before. Start as for pitch 2 of Oceanoid through initial bulge then head up right to a chalked-up horizontal. Mantle onto the orange wall and continue up slab keeping left of Oceanoid. Finish just left of the bottomless corner.

Good start and bold finish but the middle bit is nothing to write home about. Start on the buttress between Five Fingered Mary and Hurricane Lamp Cracks below a crack through an overhang at 8 metres.

1. 43m (18) Climb overhang at 8 metres and continue up chimney-corner to large ledge.

2. 24m (8) The corner-crack and walls to ledge.

3. 30m (15) Sparsely protected wall above to the Tennis Court.

Start: Start just left of 'Lamplighter' at slick, wide, left-leaning crack.

1. 25m (17) Grovel along the crack. From ledge above go left and scramble up to higher ledge.

2. 22m (17) Up right-facing flake. Continue up to big ledge.

3. 35m (18) Starting just right of big roof go up on suspect rock and move right to arete. Follow nose up arete on right and then left, whichever is easier to dramatic mossy exit. This pitch used to finish up a deep line some way right of the arete.

Little jam-crack on left.

Obvious traverse line.

Supposed to be good.

From loose block on ground, up to horizontal, step right and up shallow. left-facing corner.

Quite sustained and poorly protected. Start 2 metres right of Hugh Goes West. Up to diagonal, then right along horizontal break, up and across to bottomless corner and climb this.

Crack through bulge on right side of small face.

Start as for crack attack then step L around corner to stance (no more bolt?). Up on the L of arete over sus gear to rail, move L and up.

The very technical, bouldery start was always a bit of a shock to people expecting a grade 14! The rest of the route is substantially easier.

Up flake, at top step right on orange wall and go up slightly right to easier finish.

Start: Start at right-facing flake right of 'Jeckle' and before the streak of Clap For Kiwis.

This beautiful thin crack is so good it just about rates three stars. Maybe if it was five metres longer?

Pull into the flake just left of the cherry ballart then continue up the face-crack.

Short corner bounding right side of wall.

A route in its own right and not a great one at that.

Start: Start in gully below 'Voidoid' under huge chockstone.

Traverse high into line from left.

Delicate start 2 metres right of A Bit... leads to ledge at 15 metres Climb the arete at the L end of the wall to finish. A yellow Alien was essential protection.

Original route finished up buttress left of A Bit Of The Old One-Two.

Good technical start.

Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Jackass Crack', behind gum.

Up crack to overhang which is passed on left. Go right through overlap and then back left to easy finish.

Good rock, protection was thought to be a bit funky. Wall just right of Angel Black has a prominent flake starting a few metres up. Climb diagonally right up to flake and follow it.

Crack and pod.

Start: Start just L of the L arete of the main face, just behind a pine.

Up 'Pibroch' for 4m then the groove on the L.

Start: As for 'Pibroch'.

Consistent climbing for the grade. Starts 10m L of Turquoise, takes 2 #3 camalots (or equivalent), a #0.2 is handy to protect clip at second bolt. Up to lower off.

Good start and finish. Crosses Green Shirt and climbs the L seam and arete off the ledge. Runout up the slab above this. Start at south arete of buttress at a shallow orange corner.

Crank up the wall 2 metres right of Ephemeral.

Above Nexus there is a wall with no routes (until now). It faces the Pharos. Start in the middle of the wall. Head up rightish to small pod then back left above this and straight up to horizontal break. Take thin seam through headwall.

Start up the poorly protected seam of Tomorrow, then L and up (gear is good from here).

Varied and tricky. The crackline about 3m R of the arete (No Quarter). The initial seam is poorly protected and not super easy.

This is pretty good. Start a few metres down right of the boulder choke, opposite Pixies Delight. Move right on a ledge to base of diagonal flake/ramp (FH). Follow flake diagonally left until it runs out at FH. Move left to and up seams on grey face (this is just right of the crack and seams of Kempt) to the headwall. Up righthand crack moving slightly right then back left at top (careful with hollow block on left). Easy ground to anchor above Kempt.

Awesome major corner that sees few ascents. Large gear is needed.

Start: Start below the corner forming the left side of the 'Slabocide' wall.

1. 15m (18) Wide roof and up to belay in gully.

2. 15m (18) Traverse out right across wall and go up.

Climb the ramp just left of Haphazard for 7 meters to ledge, then climb wall directly with tricky moves at the top.

This is in the hanging gully between Lunatic and Blue Hawaii and is approached by scrambling down from Haphazard. Lefthand of two lines left of the original start to 'Lunatic', finishing up arete.

Thin crack below left arete of 'Future Past' pillar. From ledge above crack go up arete, finishing on right.

Next crack right of Sage with good holds around bulge.

Beautiful climbing on good holds