线路 如同运动攀岩 in Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau

Centre of orange wall. Mostly good big jugs. Batman start.

2m left of I. Climb the extraordinary cairn to reach first holds. The top half has some great funky waterwashed rock.

The warmup this crag was missing. Start as for Mono then step R at the ledge; clip then backclean Mono's 1st bolt.

Rightmost climb on the ledge, directly left of the Via Ferrata. A classic journey with an amazing mix of climbing.

Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware. The first 35 to be sent by an Australian (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). Tom

Start directly left of Pit Fighter. Bouldery start and more hard bits on bullet rock. Originally graded 31, you decide.

First route to be done at The Pit. Hard, bouldery and beta-y start leads to a quality, sustained pitch. The first 4m experiences some interesting seepage (straight out of the rock) and can be wet even when most of the crag is dry. Stick-clip past the start to the ledge for a very good, easy 26 or hard 25, depending on your height. You can also start up Sentinel for 6m then finish up Point Insertion for an even better 26.

7m left of Point Insertion, starting at small cairn. Long move into quality climbing and great rest. The flake feature above the rest requires devious beta followed by some pumpy crimping. The demise of the start tree has added an extra move at the same grade.

Directly left of Sentinel, last route on the left of this section of ledge before crossing the hanging swamp under the big overhang. Shares start with North by Northwest. Head straight up the wall on some of the best rock The Pit has to offer and no annoying sit down ledges. About halfway up is perhaps the most persistent seepage point on the crag, but slightly off to the side so just be ready to dry off some holds.

An awesome link-up featuring the easier halves of two pit 30's. Start up Circling Vultures for the mega dyno then after a brief rest step left into the top headwall crux of North by Northwest. The inverse linkup, connecting the brutal crux of North by Northwest into the less brutal crux of Circling Vultures, is an open project dubbed "Mt Druitt" (a "western circle" reference).

Shared start with Circling Vultures. Up this and left at second bolt into confubulating crux then up. Bolted by Scotty and eventually gifted to anyone who could pull the crux. Unlikely to be your first 30....

A great pit-link of Ebola Noodles to the big undercling flake then pump right into a hard clip on North By Northwest and continue up this into a crimpy headwall.

Gingerly start off right cairn, shared start with Flight Risk. Hard moves off the cairn and trend right at ledge through big moves to shield/flake then up. Logan

Emil's last great line of main wall. Punchy start shared by Pit-fit to the ledge then hard moves up to the box roof for the beta crux above. Get a few breaths in as the technical crux awaits above.

Start off left cairn, powerful pull off pockets to start and bouldery crux off ledge.

Third route in from the left side of the wall. The massive namesake dead tree hanging off the top of the crag is no more. Classy power-endurance route, popular with the pundits. Was a debated 27/28 for a while but many recent repeats the 28 grade has been settled. Ben

Second last route on the left, starting about 2m left of The Sword.

The double overhung arete at the L end of the wall. 5m L of Akimbo.

Fun jugging. Pit Stop to the main ledge, traverse R across Akimbo, up Damocles then R again to finish up Problem Child. Put an extender (and maybe a roller) on the 4th bolt, and the next few.

From the base of the via ferrata abseil another 15m through the trees to the valley floor. Or, scramble down the rungs L of Pit Stop and walk 80m (climbers right) to the same spot. From here, contour around (climbers right) to the edge of the amphitheatre. Steep start that requires some long slings to reduce drag. Impressive setting, perched above the valley.

High stickclip , crux off the deck, then steep fun with an athletic finale. Unfortunately due to its composition not the warm up the crag needed unless you dog to first bolt or warm shoulders up first.

Same start as P&P then straight up. Three short boulders. Hard to grade.

The namesake powerful start then leading left after fourth bolt easily enough to top. Stickclip first bolt , not permadraw. Hard for 25.

The ceiling on far left of ledge. A puzzling start leads to steep moves. Best belayed from platform beneath with a long sling on belay bolt for visibility and comfort. Stickclip first draw in roof. The climb does not require a cairn to start and to do so would be a hazard to your belayer and anyone on rungs beneath. The route length refers to how much rope required to lower as you will land back down on main ledge. Back Cleaning is essential.

Shared start with Einfingerkuppenaufleger and Astral Traveler. At ledge of Einfingerkuppenaufleger, heads right through overhanging corner feature and up beautiful wall above.

Great fun. Climbs up to 1 move before Einfinger.... crux and busts out right to finish up old open projects.

Yet another impressive send by Alex, giving it hard 34. Shared start with Astral Traveller. Head up to small ledge and straight up with increasing difficulty.

A brilliant route offering superb, pumpy climbing until the devious crux sequence. Walk all the way right on the ledge, past a couple of rungs to a small ledge. Best to stick clip the first 2 bolts and trend left through the limestone-like pockets then up. A classic route. Start rung is now glued in and a few more rungs have been added to the slippy traverse.

Start as for Rolling Thunder then head right at the ledge. Finish as for Astral Traveller's last 3 bolts.

Uber classic steep pumper. Think 'Way of All Flesh' but longer, steeper and likely a touch harder. Start towards right side of main ledge below bolt on slab and corner feature above. Best to belay off first rung on ledge.

Steep roof climbing in the guts of the cave. Difficult boulder off the ledge then get your steep on. Starts just right of approach hand-over rope.

As for Farkenstone, but instead of tackling Arkenstone's roof boulder, keep trucking right to finish on the skyline. Consistent juggy steepness the whole way.

Avoids The Arkenstone's bouldery lower crux by coming in from the left. Clip the first bolt on Force Cannon, then up right past four new bolts to join the original at the 'hourglass' hold. Finish directly up through the roof as for Arkenstone.

Links Force Cannon into Farkenright. Climb all of the hard bit of FC to the horizontal break just before the ledge. Now bust directly right via a tricky boulder, then across the break to the hourglass hold, continuing R as per Farkenright. Lots of roof climbing!

Starting at the top of the handline. Up and out through the monster roof. Fun!

Start 5m right of Magnitude. Big roof. Big holds. Big moves. Harder than it should be.

Lee Cujes

Classic Mountains 25. One of the bestest at the grade. Tricky flake to steep thuggy roof to pumpy headwall - awesome. Start approx 20m left of approach hand-over rope below right trending flake feature.

Vertical climbing on beautiful orange wall. A little stiff and likely not the warmup you're looking for. Great route regardless. Access ledge via a couple of rungs and this is the furthest route right of the 3.

Great route that tackles both the orange, vertical wall and the steep roof above. Anchors provided below the roof for a cool 24 or all the way for an excellent 26. Starts in the crack feature left of Cruisin' for a Bruisin'.

You'll be proud you got up it. Not everyone's favourite! The leftmost route on this ledge directly up and left of the access rungs, starting in a steep crack feature.

Undercut corner halfway along the sketchy rope traverse to Waylander rap point. Use the rung to belay from (don't rust the old fixed rope). If the bottom of the route is running with water use the rung to get onto wall.

Starting on far left of wall just right of handover rope. Boulder up under roof, reach through to big jug on arete. Bouldery sequence to ledge. Traverse left and up as it steepens into the technical crux. If that goes well, make your way up and left, navigating around the huge flake feature and final big move to top out. 10 bolts to lower off.

Pouncy low roof, sloper crux, traverse left then cool hanging corner, arete and a baffling final move. 10 bolts to lower off.

Closed project. Low roof, then underclings to jug. Hard to right edge of the break, the step right via a mono into about four bodylengths of sustained, super hard face climbing. 9 bolts to lower off.

Three distinct boulder problems. So good! 6 bolts to lower off.

Big move off undercling down low and huck to monster jug rail. Past hole to right side of rooflet. Up on edges to ledge and final wall to top out. Dynamic climbing. 9 bolts to lower off.

Bouldery first half to break, followed by two hard dynos that probably favour a decent wingspan. Tom declined to grade this but climbed it in a couple of tries.

Farthest right route being the first encountered when walking from via ferrata. Tricky face climbing up to roof, then crux reach through roof. Likely to be impossible if you're shorter than 175cm. Anchors under roof mean you can do the first section as a 3 star 25.

3m left of Waylander, start at Gritstone slab/layback. Recommend to stick-clip first bolt. Bouldery crux at first roof (permadraw) and then a further 28m of fine, pumpy and varied climbing.

5m left of Gumption at vertical wall with small start cairn. Engaging climbing up to roof and rest. Hard and committing sequence through 2.5m roof, followed by quality face climbing. Anchors below roof for rebelay to aid cleaning. First section to these anchors is a decent 24.

12m left of Gumption at the base of short slab. Up through steepening terrain through main roof. The 15m long headwall is bullet hard, baked orange goodness. Hard 26 or soft 27, grade still to even out.

The way to climb The Enforcer, and make it one of the best face climbs at the grade in the Blueys.

Climb Corner Drug for 7 bolts, then trend right (past a new bolt) to join The Enforcer below the roof-turn to gain the headwall, then continue up that route.

Makes it proper classic, by only tackling great rock, and eliminating the no-hands rests (the stop-start climbing) on Enforcer, without being draggy, or a nuisance to equip/unequip.

Left of The Enforcer, ascend small pinnacle to start. Climb wall into trad-y corner. Good shake at permadraw then drop the clutch through the crux face climbing.

Start on left end of pinnacle as for Corner Drug. Enjoyable but wind-y climbing up to hanging corner feature. Delicate and devious beta gets you through the corner to small arete and up. Long draws and sling runners essential.

Novel tree start down and left of Hard Reset. Cruxy face leads to base of headwall and good rest. Upper section is engaging and continuous on superb rock.

An epic adventure up all sorts of vertical terrain. Starts 50m around left from Waylander proper. Arete to start then technical wall and hidden slab - then traverse right and up slabby arete and then face, bulge and corner to finish. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Watch your rope length - 70m rope will just get you down if your belayer stands on the starting cairn!

Crag warmup. Climb Megaflex for 9 bolts then head left and up face past bolt to anchors in middle of blank slab.

Pumper. Start in corner as for Hail Mary but break right at first bolt and haul up overhung pocketed wall to climactic finish. Named in honor of 100km/h+ storm winds that howled in the valley below during the first ascent.

Start as for The Darkest Hour corner but stay on the left face, dabbling onto the arete at a few points, then left and up wall, through bulge and finish with hyper technical face.

Meanders up face left 2m of major corner (Hail Mary) and punches through steep jugs to finish.

Really long, steep and fun - the jugs at the top are next level huge. 4m left of Saw-Toothed Snake, at short flake feature and low roof. Stickclip high first bolt. This route shares a few moves with Saw Toothed Snake just before the final steepness.

Start as for Archon and trend right. Quality tricky blunt-flake climbing.

Striking orange face/arete visible from The Pit abseil. Scramble up corner to belay on large terrace. The left line.

One of the finest single pitch face routes at the grade in The Mountains. Stellar. 26/27 - grade still to be confirmed.

Easiest sport route at the crag. Starts 2m left of Archon, but down at ground level just left of chimney. Flake start (stem off the back wall or add 4 grades) then up to huge hanging flake. At top of this swing left across face to arete and up this to anchors under little orange rooflet.

1m left of Cooper's Extra Stout, up featured orange wall.

Companion route to Wizball, starting 2m left. Hard start leads to tricky hard slabbing on big holds (?!).

Directly around corner from Nifta. Start at base of flake/crack. Some techy and tricky beta through the bottom section, particularly if there is no chalk. Being drawn around right will end in tears.

Start in the middle of the wall below pockets. Unlikely climbing through pockets up to crimpy crux.

A series of wicked reaches that require unconventional climbing. Pumpier than it looks.

Closed project - Jamie Baron

Closed project - Jamie Baron

Closed project - Jamie Baron

Closed project - Jamie Baron

Climbs like a granite classic. Great little trad-y corner with a pumpy and techy finale. Be sure to stick clip the first bolt to protect the choss guarding the start.

Hard for 24. Crimpy face climbing with a tough technical crux on awesome rock at the midway mark. A working bolt is available here that is best skipped on link. A few potential heartbreaker moves on the headwall and an exciting mantle cap off this classic of the genre!

The Fundamental Theorem of Rock Climbing

Suppose K is a cliff, and H is a sequence of hand hold locations progressing up K with an associated sequence of foothold locations F. Let's define an individual climber as C, then the ape index, strength, endurance and psyche of climber C are given by ape(C), str(C), end(C) and psy(C) respectively. Furthermore, define a route R(H,F) as a finite sequence of moves, m_n, whose elements are taken from H and F, as a path that will take C from the bottom of the cliff at n=0 to the top at n=T. The fundamental theorem of rock climbing states that R(H,F) "will go for sure dude" if and only if the following conditions hold:

1. ape(C) ≥ d(h[i], h[i+1]) for consecutive h[i] from H,

2. str(C) ≥ S(m_n) for each m_n in R(H,F), where S(m_n) is the minimum stength required to do move m_n, and

3. end(C) + psy(C) > g, where g is the acceleration due to gravity.

Proof: Check the pudding.

The beta is trivial and left as an exercise for the climber.

Just another cracking line featuring quite a few cryptic sequences.

Three moves on the headwall follow a bit of a theme - can you pick it? Briefly wanders into TIC around halfway.

Line of bolts straight up off the right hand rungs. A few cheeky sequences split by good rests before a creeping pump will try to keep you from topping out. Very nice climbing!

Holds in unexpected places will get you started. The exciting headwall might keep you up at night!

Steep grey wall among the trees 20m L of CDD. Take care on the loose shale above a big drop as you round the corner. Tom

Bold sports climbing at its finest, if that's your thing. Batman start, suck your gonads up and steel thy self for a memorable journey, including some very long runouts in the top half.

Start off the large cairn and head straight up the left side of the arete and wall above to some long moves. Has a couple of runouts but on quite easy moves. From the 2nd bolt to the top crux bolt is good 24-25 mileage climbing, if using the easier sequences through half-height.

Start as per Pollux and head up the line of bolts into the techy dihedral above. From the 2nd bolt to the dihedral is great at about 24-25 if you're looking for some mileage when Tiger Snatch is occupied.

Start from the cairn and head up and across the right face to rejoin the arete at half height. Boulder up leaning arete to finish above the small roof.

Wowsers! All time mega classic. Start as per Aristocat, boulder its main crux and then head into a mind boggling amount of sustained climbing, culminating with a potentially heart breaking finish. Absolute stonker! Stu Monique Jorge flash

Tiger Cat to the half way jugs then across right and finish as for Beta Vinyl. The Don't Believe the Hype of Elphinstone.

Starts up Beta Vinyl, goes straight into the Tiger Cat crux, and then blasts directly upwards via some rad looking independent bouldering. Might finish direct up the Aristocat top crux ... or veer R up Beta Vinyl ... or hell why not into Sue's Last Ride. Supposed to be "the everyman's 34"...

Beta Vinyl into Tiger Cat. All the cruxes and no rest, outrageous! Grade unconfirmed.

Starts 5m right of Tiger Cat and is feisty straight off the deck with some brilliant and brutal bouldering. Suck in some oxygen at halfway then head up to join Love Cats at its crux, following this to where LC and TS trend back left. Instead peel off rightward under roof to motor up the headwall. Hoik your rig left and right while trying not to feel like a flag in a stiff wind. Sitting Bull joins into the same headwall finish. Stu

Starts a few meters right of Beta Vinyl and goes up somewhere! This is the one with several fixed biners in the first 15m.

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride.

Start 3m right of Kitten Mittens behind the large rock at cliff base. Head up and left to join the last few bolts of Tiger Cat.

For the most part this is a Tiger Snatch variant. More 'doable' than Tiger Snatch as it avoids the complicated dyno in its upper section, albeit with an extra 20 move price tag. A route for the pumpers. Head left off the halfway rest as per Velvet Love. Clip a bolt, and then head upward and back to the right to clip a bolt of Beta Vinyl. Rejoin Tiger Snatch to the chain.

A similar linkup to Tiger Vinyl, but stays in Love Cats all the way to Beta Vinyl then takes Beta Vinyl to the top. Doing it this way avoids some of the zigging and zagging that TV has.

This variant finish to Velvet Love has turned out to be the most popular route on the wall. Climb for 15m to obvious rest at small break. Head right to a funky crux, then back left to join Tiger Cat at the lip, just under the chain. Originally graded 29, general consensus is that it is a little harder. Enjoy yourself! Jake

A variant finish to Tiger Snatch. Instead of heading left under the final roof, head right to finish up Beta Vinyl.

Tiger Snatch to the jump then head right into Kitten Mittens for the drive by move. Finish up Tiger Vinyl. A classic!

Tiger Snatch to the crux then diagonally right forever. After doing the Tiger Snatch crux, follow good holds R to join Sitting Bull in the roof. Turn the lip as per Sitting Bull, cross Bandula at the top of the flake, and join Brummel Hook at its 2nd last bolt to the top. Around 2013 Quentin Chastagnier did a similar linkup via a crimpy traverse a few metres higher, called "Le Tigre … " (TBC), grade 31.

Originally bolted by Rowan Druce and generously offered to the masses, Tom O'Halloran, seeing a classic on offer, was quick to pounce. Start as per Brummel Hook (also possible to start up 1st 2 bolts of Tiger Snatch), then head straight up the immaculate orange stone to finish on the high black head wall. Slightly easier than Tiger Cat (opinions are divided on this...) and originally given 32, but has now seen an upgrade. Andrea , Ryan