线路 in Sublime Point

Slightly harder (especially if you are short) and even more exposed version of the original Subliminal. Maybe even better than the original?

1. 33m (22) Climb Subliminal pitch 1 to the first belay - but don't stop there! Start up that route's 2nd pitch for 1 bolt then keep traversing hard left along a juggy break above a sucking void all the way to the left arete and hanging belay on the left side of the arete.

2. 60m (23) The spectacular reachy arete for six new bolts then join into Subliminal pitch 2. 25 quickdraws required. That's not a typo.

3. 14m (14) As for Subliminal pitch 3.

It doesn't get more exposed for the grade! Ridiculous position, big jugs, lots of bolts and fabulous rock. 60m rope (minimum!) & 25+ quickdraws, some of them long.

1. 20m (20) From hanging belay, climb up for one bolt, then traverse left for a couple of hard moves to reach small ledge. Traverse this amazing exposed ledge on yummy orange rock for 20m to small sandy stance and double ring belay. Prusiks! 8 bolts.

2. 58m (23) An epic pitch. Left and up stunning orange rock (ignore horizontal line of bolts - that is Sublimated) eventually reaching the proud arête. Keep plodding up this juggy prow on the right side to small ledge at 45m. Swing onto juggy left side of arete (extender(s)) and finish up slabby dirty grey stuff. At big ledge do last tricky mantle to gain belay ledge. If using a 60m rope, don't waste any rope in the belay or you won't make it! 22 bolts (A few long runners recommended).

3. 14m (14) Easily up juggy exposed face (staying away from loose plates of rock) to top ledge. 3 bolts.

If you have a short rope or even shorter endurance you can split the mega second pitch in two parts by belaying off to the right as for the 26s.

A long, sustained pitch of varied face climbing on inspiring rock. So many pockets! Bring 20 quickdraws, at least 3 of which should be long runners.

Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined into a MEGA 65m pitch (rope management crucial! 29 quickdraws required, 5 of them should be long runners).

P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the L path where the bolt lines split (Sojourn goes R) into long rising traverse across intermittent horizontal flakes and pockets, then up to big horizontal. Step left and up past a hard move, then back right and more directly up past sustained thin climbing. At 19th bolt, step R and belay in the cave (as for Sojourn). 20 bolts.

P2 - 25m (22) - Step back L from belay, and up to 2nd bolt. Hard move past this to big horizontal, clip 1 more bolt, then truck left to rejoin Subliminal P2. Finish up this to belay. 9 Bolts.

P3 - 15m (14) - Subliminal pitch 3.

A mega 40m pitch of sustained steep face climbing on stunning rock. Bring 18 draws, 2 of them long runners. Might be hard at the grade!

P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the R path where the bolt lines split (Sabbatical goes L) into hard moves past glued flake to break and rest, then more hard moves, slightly right, then more directly left past steep right-facing flake. One more thin crux, then steeply up trending left to belay in cave.

P2 - 25m (22) - Sabbatical pitch 2.

P3 - 15m (14) - Subliminal pitch 3.

A great thin, mostly slabby pitch in its own right, which would probably be popular at any other crag... But surrounded by the elite climbs of the Sublime Point East face, this is merely a 2 star route.

Start from the Castaway belay. Head slightly right and up (crossing Subliminal P1). Continue up via very thin technical moves which get progressively harder all the way to the belay.

If climbing out via Castaway, its possible to head directly right from the belay for 7m (with exhilarating climbing) past 2 additional bolts to join the belay at the top of Castaway P1.

Intriguing multi-pitch winding up the right side of the wall. First pitch is a real winner with fantastic exposure and great rock, second is a bit weird, 3rd is an arête jugfest and last pitch is a jungle bashing adventure. One single 60m rope (no shorter) and 15 draws will suffice. A few long runners for pitch 2 are useful. This route is not suitable for a weak second as it traverses and is overhung - bring prussics.

1. 30m (21) Traverse R for 5m then up wall to next small ledge (Subliminal p1). Right again for 2-3m then straight up the amazing orange wall above. At about 20m traverse right to arete and final sandy corner. Belay in slot between main wall and balancing boulder. Short climbers will find this is more like grade 22/23. 10 bolts.

2. 15m (20) Walk across slot to right side of sandy cave. Up right side of arete for 5m on black jugs then hand traverse left to other side of arete and up steep orange wall to small ledge belay on arete. Use long runners on the 2nd and 3rd bolts. 8 bolts.

3. 20m (20) Arete for 15m then left and up final short headwall. Mantle grass to belay on big vegetated ledge. 8 bolts.

4. 15m (5) To exit stay roped up and scramble left then right up vegetated ramp to base of chimney. Hand over hand up fixed rope (or chimney if you like for extra style points) for 6m to arrive where you started at rap chains. 2 bolts.

Easier direct start to Castaway. Gorgeous orange rock.

Trust nothing but your feet. First three bolts of Wrath of Froth, then swing onto the left side of the arete and climb the super sweet orange face. It weaves around a bit - a few long draws will help with rope drag, especially on bolt 3 (or alternatively it is easy to unclip once you have clipped bolt 4). Either lower-off and clean from high anchor and climb one of the other routes to exit, or do an annoying hanging belay and traverse right onto Wrath of Froth pitch 2 about halfway up. 15ish quickdraws.

I know routes, I have the best routes. Rap in, climb out mini-multi with a similar feel to nearby Subliminal. Brilliant first pitch, average 2nd pitch, good finish pitch. Fix a 70m rope to tree at top of wall and rap over edge (rope protector advised). Rap all the way to end of rope and double bolt belay on left end of small ledge below prominent orange arete. You may want to clip into a few bolts on the way down to stay attached to the wall. Bring 15 draws and a few slings for belays.

1. 25m (24) Tremendous immaculate orange arete with a dyno to start. Finish at semi-hanging belay on awkward shelf or link into next pitch. 10ish bolts

2. 17m (18) Juggy arete for 7m then trend right across onto mossy face and up to sandy mantle onto large shelf and belay. 9 bolts.

3. 17m (22) Reachy move straight off the belay then trend right across featured steep face, pop through a small roof to ledge, then final short face to top. Finish by hand over handing up short knotted fixed rope over the lip! 9 bolts.

So much winning. Orange face to the right of pitch 1 of Wrath of Froth sharing same start belay anchors.

1. 25m (24) Hard mantle to start then weave up terrific orange face to small ledge and semi hanging off double belay bolts. 10 bolts.

2. 16m (18) Straight up juggy face to join into Wrath of Froth pitch 2 for the last two bolts. 8 bolts?

3. 17m (22) Same last pitch as for Wrath of Froth.

An old all trad route up the obvious easy corner, then right onto face and up to ledge and BB. There a couple of manky pitons en route and a couple of crap bolts on the ledge 2/3rds of the way up the wall to belay off. Grade is a rough guesstimate. Macca has done a solo TR direct version (~22) of this up a faint seam crack a few metres to the right, and continuing to the top of the cliff (shown in topo).

The best warmup/warm down on this wall. Tricky start on shallow pockets (avoiding the tree) then orange wall to bulge. Over this using flake then up reachy face above. All U-bolts. Possible (and nice) to continue up p2 of Sundial in one big pitch.

Fine sustained wall climbing in the middle of the wall. Climbs much better than it looks. Link the two pitches together for a big sport route.

1. 20m (21) Carrots, then a couple of rings, then 7+ glue-in carrots to small ledge and rap anchor. Quite thin in places. Lower-off, or...

2. 12m (21) Continue up steeper wall above on pumpy little flats. It's exactly 30m to the ground from the top anchors.

Middle route of the wall. Left trending start on orange pocketed rock then back right to small roof. Over this on small holds and up black face above on little edges to lower-off. A little mossy up high.

Furthest right of the bolted routes. Josh Dobson never freed this route and it has had a faded tag hanging off it for years. Nice easy climbing up to rooflet, hard crimps over this (appears to be chipped?) then dirty mossy slab to finish. Currently its so mossy you can't make the anchor so lower off the last ring. Grade of 25 is given up to this no moss high point!

Start off block traversing right then up on killer holds and cool moves

Start on flake, up past 2 bolts the right on rad pockets and up thin headwall.

Start on flake then straight up.

Start up slab the onto black arête and up.

Not quite Sublime. Starts at right end of black dirty slab where the descent track flattens out to the shale ledge. Apparently an excellent hangover climb or relaxing afternoon, back in the day.

1. 17m (12) Up near dirt on good rock to tree.

2. 13m (12) Easily up to bush anchor.

3. 17m (12) Up broken rock slight left around overhang to dirt ledge. Traverse left around corner then scramble up and right to track.

Start below yellow chossy crack 10m left of Pawns Leap. Up, through roof crack and continue up slabby vegetated crack above to tree belay. Grade is a total guess. Anyone repeated this?

A steep pumper on some of the biggest holds in the mountains - overhangs 5m. Starts about 5m left of ES (40m left of access track) at steep orange overhanging wall between massive choss. Right into little corner, traverse right across horizontal to steep prow, jug up this to overhanging orange wall with finale crux to anchor.

Just left of CCC through steep terrain. Originally climbed direct at 2nd last bolt, avoiding the ledge, at grade 22 - but it seems everyone uses the ledge to make it a cruisy 21. Longer draws useful to reduce drag.

Line of least resistance through a world of seething choss.

Start: Starts at chossy groove under big overhang 2m left of 'Choc Chip Chai'.

1. 13m (12) Choss for 7m then dawdle left on small ledge and around nose into corner. Onto ledge and up to block. Old bolt belay.

2. 10m (14) Wall to cave and old double bolt belay.

3. 20m (14) Overhang on left and wall.

Appallingly chossy corner that joins into the first pitch of 'Defaecation' after the traverse.

Start: Marked DDS. Starts 10m left of original route.

An old aid route now free. Major line on the right side of alcove with appalling choss at the start. The steep corner crack on the third pitch is the good bit.

Start by taking pictures of the fascinating witches who put the scintillating stitches in the britches of the boys who put the powder on the noses on the faces of the ladies of the harem of the court of King 'Caractacus', who are just passing by ... at the choss 20m left of DDS.

1. 27m (12) Chossy corner of sorts to small ledge on the left and old bolt belay.

2. 11m (12) Continue up rambling corner crack to ledge.

3. 22m (21) The steep major left facing corner finishing out right of the big hanging block. This used to be an aid pitch at M4.

4. 50m (12) Easily up trending left.

1950s style chossy ramble. Who needs protection when you just have a rope tied around your waist anyway?

Start: Starts 8m left of C on left side of square alcove.

1. 20m (11) Up sandy corner nonsense to cave then left until you can stand.

2. 17m (11) Up to cave, onto wall and up to small cave.

3. 20m (12) Up to big ledge and tree belay.

4. 40m (-) Left across ledge.

5. 33m (12) Up and right to tree

6. 20m (-) Walk to 5m corner, up it to tree.

7. 27m (-) Up right to ledge to first gully. Up to flakes then chimney. Up to tree.

8. 13m (-) Chimney.

A mighty line tamed by stainless steel. Unknown to Mikl (who bolted it), 'barefoot' Brian Burford had led the 2nd pitch 12 years previously - ground up on trad. Apparently he is happy to have it bolted now so put away those angle grinders tradsters! An easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with easy climbing through ridiculous roofs.

1. 25m (18) Easy sandy horizontals up the left wall of the left corner past many U-bolts. Either lower off first anchor or climb up and right over shale explosion to second anchor bolts at base of corner.

2. (21) Up right facing corner to ledge, then left facing corner to final undercling moves. Juggy on good rock. Don't lower off, it would be terrifying and your rope would run over all sorts of scariness. Best to lead and second this pitch. Pull over the top and there's a pair 'U' bolts at the back of the ledge.

3. (12) Up wall on left past a ring to trees and ledge. Walk right 40m to rejoin walk-down. If going to top from here, go up the gully 10m and walk right.

Sandy flake and roof crack 7m right of Lead Zeppelin that goes up and out and out and out. Macca has freed up to the roof crack above the ledge about 8m up, and reckons the whole thing would be good at about M3 or free climb at about 20ish? to the ledge and hard 23? through the roof crack. Small, small to medium cams and wires.

Finally some better rock! A good first pitch up a major line but degenerates further up on the black slabs.

Start: Marked LZ

1. 23m (17) A steep corner crack past some greenery then cranks through a roof via a chimney. There is a rusty pin for historical interest. Belay at tree.

2. 30m (-) Continue up wide crack in slabby black wall to tree belay.

3. 40m (-) More of the same low angle trench climbing to tree belay on steep hillside. Scramble and bush bash up from here.

Start as for Theory on Negativity. At 2nd bolt veer right and up steep wall.

Sensational juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall.

Orange featured face 2m left of 'Theory of Negativity'. Bouldery start so stick clip the 2nd bolt if 23 is your limit.

Links the low crux section of The Cramps into the crux section of On the Wagon via the short, closed flake. Good value! This link-up was done as follows, without any new rings: Start as for The Cramps and continue up to clip its 4th ring with a long draw. Step up and left to layaway off flake, reaching left to clip the 3rd ring of On the Wagon (OTW). Climb to the top of the flake to clip the 4th ring of OTW, then reach down and unclip 3rd ring of OTW to prevent rope drag. Continue up OTW to its anchors.

Start 2m left of TC. Directly up the slightly overhung orange wall.

Marked GR

They don't make them like this anymore, and that's probably a good thing. Another hybrid bush-walk slash rock-climb done by the 50s pioneers of choss and doodle. "Filthy. A vertical bushwalk. Take a trowel." [JME]

Start: Starts 2m left of The Cramps at vertical vegetated corner.

1. 20m (-) Scrub to ledge and tree belay.

2. 20m (10) Scrub to ledge, dirty crack and up to bush.

3. 13m (-) Scrub to ledge (seeing the theme emerging here?)

4. 12m (-) Right and up to ledge

5. 15m (-) Filthy chimney on left.

A big black juggy old school slab.

Start:On corner at left of black wall with carved KG initials, shared with The Belfry.

1. 25m (8) Up and slightly right to tree belay.

2. 35m (-) Continue trending right past a few small bulges and good belay ledge, or another 10-15m to start of vegetated gully and tree belay.

3. Scramble up gully and scrub to eventually finish under bridge.

Another major line of least resistance and most vegetation from the Rhum Dhu pioneers.

Start: Start as for 'Kedumba Gambit'.

1. 50m (12) Climb first two pitches of 'Kedumba Gambit'. [Apparently to avoid hardcore roof corner / crack]

2. 17m (-) Scrubby ledge left to tree.

3. 10m (-) Yummy chimney.

4. 20m (-) Continue up the chimney to tree.

5. 10m (-) Continue up chimney to cave and tree.

6. 13m (-) Right crack. "Wriggle into crack on the right crack and thrust upwards." [BA] Appears to be hideous barely navigable offwidth.

7. 15m (-) Up.

Multi-pitch climbing via a series of overhung orange buttresses divided by good ledges. Starts 50m left of Theory of Negativity at recessed orange corner with large orange hanging arete high above it. Trad only required on the first pitch or if you can't place trad you can climb the optional, but not as good, I Don't Place Wigglies 4m left.

1. (17m, 16) Trad - Orange recessed corner with twin cracks. Finish up the left hand corner crack to big ledge and bolt belay. Eats finger to hand size cams and big wires.

2. (25m, 23, 11 bolts) Up left side of orange wall for a few metres - then traverse right to small hanging corner and onto small ledge. Right edge of this find hidden bolt then up overhung arete which turns into frightening large ironstone jugs. Belay on large ledge. You can rap from here to ground with two 50m ropes.

3. (15m, 22, 7 bolts) Walk 50m left along shale ledge to bolt belay below big orange wall. Undercut start on jugs then up pumpy face on slots. Belay on small ledge.

4. (15m, 24) Out, right and up the imposing orange wall and prow with a squillion bolts. Belay on small ledge.

5. (10m, 18) Juggy steep wall past diving board to cruddy black rock topout. Belay on tree well back from edge

Bolted black wall just left of recessed orange corner. Not great. This is the only way of doing Cynics United if you can't place trad.

Rad independent corner with a beautiful roof crux. Starts from the same ledge as the Trojan. Either finish up the Iliad or rap Cynics United with two ropes.

Think twice about what's actually attached on the top out.

A great trad multi-pitch with only one short section of gardening down low. The upper pitches are in a fantastic position with great orange rock up a major crackline. Standard rack of finger to fist crack size cams and wires are needed, bring doubles of cams (or a rack of hexes and some gear placing nous) as you will need to use them to setup belays. Starts about 20m left of Cynics United and 40m right of the Binary Cave.

The start is fairly easy to spot. The first few metres are vegetated grasstrees - but then a stonker black juggy handcrack emerges.

1. 27m (12) Bridge around grasstrees then up bomber handcrack (jugs abound) then bushbash up easy vegetated ledges for 10m to large ledge. Belay off finger crack sized trad gear in crack just right of arete with old piton at the base. (A cleaner alternative is to do the first pitch of Cynics United and walk left)

2. 27m (16) Clip the manky piton (good wire and small cam around corner) and do a tough reachy move onto the arete. Up the face with distant pro for 8m to horizontal break (there is a good #0.75 and #0.5 camalot placement at 4m and a large nut placement at 6m). Traverse right slightly along this break to gain the vegetated crack on the right above overhung corner. Up this crack on good cams to belay on large ledge. Trad belay. This pitch can also be climbed via the Trojan (23) variant start, which climbs the tips crack on the right side of the arete into the top section of the original pitch.

3. 13m (16) Crux. 'Steep' orange corner crack to lip, then juggy corner to cave and trad belay. You can easily join this pitch into the next one (use lot of extenders).

4. 20m (15) Continue up the crack that turns into a rightwards leading ramp that eventually ends with a steep mantle onto a good ledge and tree belay (can be backed up with #2 camalot).

To exit walk up the hill to small cliffline. Follow this cliffline right for 100m or so to below tourist lookout and short gully that goes under metal bridge.

Desperate, strenuous and with very small gear (1 x BD #1, 1 x BD #2, 1 x BD C3 #1, 1 x BD C3 #2, Double rack of wires + gear for the top half of The Illiad P2). From the belay at the end of Pitch 1 of The Illiad, climb the tips crack around the corner to the right, and join The Illiad Pitch 2 at the rooflet crack before the final slab. Continue to belay as for the rest of Pitch 2 of The Illiad.

Start: Crack in middle of wall, left of 'The Iliad' and right of Constipation Chimney.

1. 27m (-) Up crack through easy wall to small tree then larger tree. Originally done in two pitches.

2. 13m (-) Up slight overhang on small nose to left, then then steeply to next ledge and bollard belay.

3. 24m (-) Up 6m, traverse left on small ledge, up to big ledge.

4.+30m? (-) Traverse left and finish 'Constipation Chimney' or as you wish.

A major old-school line of little modern merit.

Start: Start at big black wall or small wall to its side.

1. 30m (-) Up to first ledge 2m right of corner.

2. 13m (-) Diagonally left and up to ledge.

3. 30m (-) Traverse left to corner and up to ledge.

4. 20m (12) Chimney to cave on left.

5. 17m (-) Up, ignoring the scrub on the left.

6. 13m (-) Wall on right.

7. 13m (-) Traverse left and up chimney.

A nice easy trad corner on the right side of the Binary Cave. Marked CCVS. There are now rap anchors added at the top of the first pitch. Be careful of some loose rock at the top.

A great wet weather protected slab climb! The right most bolted line on the wall. Start either via first few metres of the trad corner Constipation Chimney VS or boulder the start direct (grade 21?). A couple of clips are tricky if you are short. The bolts were a birthday gift from Vanessa and Ryan.

Technical wall climbing up some great orange rock. Share the first three bolts of Birthday Bolts then take the left line direct up the steeper face. This was the first of the modern sport routes established in the Binary Cave, and kicked off Neil's tradition to establish a new route at this crag on every birthday. 3 years running so far.

Line of rings up dark orange wall 3m left of Thirty Three Years. Stick clip first bolt and campus the undercut start. Nice finish up steep prow, that is now a touch harder since a key hold fell off. The start of this route is shared with the next three routes as well.

A bit squeezed in but has some great sustained climbing. Same start as for Flash Flood for a couple of bolts then take the next line of bolts to the left. Easily to small cave then punch out a committing move above it. Nice climbing to the top, staying just left of arête.

Undercut start as for Flash Flood for a couple of bolts then slightly left and up the wall left of Stereo. A bit of a shutdown crux in the middle, that can be done slightly easier by climbing to the right of the bolts.

Really good sustained climbing that wanders around a bit to link a line above the overhung section. Start as for up Flash Flood (or Nice Day for a Disco), and then move left to the furthest line of ringbolts that traverses over lip of small cave, then climb up and right up the super headwall.

This is not a full route, but confusingly an optional harder start to the previous couple of routes. Starts 2m left of Flash Flood at right side of overhung/cave. There is a hard/awkward move at the 3rd bolt before it links into the other routes.

Direct start links into LN, TV, S, or FF. 25m indicated height includes these 4 routes.

Unlikely well protected trad climbing. Starts 6m left of Flash Flood. Weave up blocky steep stuff to under big roof. Swing right across break and up seam crack to topout onto shale ledge and single ubolt + trad belay. Long draws useful to avoid rope drag.

Proof no-one climbs trad anymore. Climb Torrential for 12m to under big roof. Place #5 cam in slot with long sling then committing traverse left under roof and up technical small corner on great rock to bolt belay on shale ledge. Double ropes or long slings make rope drag much more pleasant.

Some funky moves and a great example of Bundy's creative vision to squeeze in another route! Up groove behind small tree. Swing through the roof and onto the face. Left, up and then back to the right crossing Middle Finger and on to orange headwall.

Upgraded in the 2019 guidebook. 5m left of MF, just left of small tree leaning against cliff. Steep juggy start up to big roof. Monkey across imposing roof flake then up super headwall.

Popular steep climbing. Climb up juggy cracks and flakes to the biggest roof at Binary Cave. Crank over this with a bouldery lip move then up great orange headwall. Two long draws in the roof help reduce rope drag.

As good as the other routes here. Up the juggy wall right of Thumbs Up crack to large shale ledge under roof. Clip roof bolt then hand traverse shale ledge left to join into Thumbs Up's roof crack section. Up crack for a move then hand traverse back right above dramatic roof then up great sustained orange wall.

An exciting steep trad line that doesn't see much love. The first pitch has been freed recently, but the upper pitches probably haven't seen a repeat in decades. For the first pitch bring a full rack including micro cams and several long slings. Start at crackline through steep wall 3m left of Swinging in the Rain.

1. 25m (24) The double roof pitch. First roof is bouldery, the second is reachy and pumpy. Finish up fantastic easy corner to trad belay on shale ledge.

2. 27m (- M4) Very thin seam crack splitting roof above. Probably requires pitons. Might go free?

3. 40m (15) Easy trench crack to top.

Has a reputation for being tough for the grade and having a tricky pocket sequence. Starts just left of Thumbs Up. Boulder though a couple of roofs to an easy head wall.

Go go stop. The best of the harder routes at the Binary Cave Steep bouldery start trending right to rooflet then straight up the gorgeous orange wall on small sloping holds to an easier finish.

Whilst Bundy and Macca pissed around on their sport/trad project over several years Steve noticed the chalk Macca had left from trying the direct start and managed to bolt send this harder version in one weekend. It's the route between Binary Neil and Thumbs Out.

Looks as though it has a couple of impassable blank sections, but some focussed oomph will see you through, provided you have average or better wingspan. Very good climbing which deserves more attention.

Chris Beers

The site of a bloody showdown of conflicting ethics, wherein fact and fiction have become conflated throughout history to produce an epic tale of Tolkienesque proportions. Finally put to a rest by a third party almost a decade after the conflict began.

Start at fused right-facing seam/corner/crack/roof thing. Bold-ish face climbing, with a couple of gymnastic cruxes. Be careful, as a fall or blown gear at a few points might lead to a trip to hospital. Bring a rack 0.3 to #2 (consider micros, depending on your definition of acceptable risk) and maybe a tin of spinach (or a joint).

Extension-Project (Trad) Macca: Continue up from the big block straight up the steepening with limited small to medium large gear options turn the lip and up 5m to belay on ledge. Good gear is available here but bolts might be placed to allow lowering or continue to top...

Start just right of Thumbs Down on sandy shelf. Right trending wall to big horizontal break. Swing across this then lean back and reach the big jug over the lip. Up featured wall above. Might be grade 23, especially if you are tall.

Another old aid route through a big ceiling that has now been partially freed.

1. 25m (23) Chossy corner crack for 12m to large shale covered ledge and BR. Up short corner to roof, then traverse rightwards with difficulty (small cams) to lip of roof and easy crack finish and trad belay on shale ledge.

2. 10m (10) Corner to ledge. Best linked into next pitch.

3. 13m (23/M2) Up corner then right to prow. Overhung short corner (piton scars) and out hanging wall to juggy black stuff and up to ledge. Is being attempted as a free route by Macca (2013).

4. 30m (15) Long easy black wall of horror jugs.

First of the short sport routes just left of Thumbs Down. Nice wall to start then thin crimpy finish with a tricky to clip last bolt. Convince someone else to put the draws on first!

Popular, mostly due to the bolts, easy grade and the weather protection. The middle of the three mini-routes. Wall to fun flake feature, then up tricky wall to finish. Some loose rock at the top.

The cute little slab just right of free standing pillar.

Sandy horizontals jugs to get started with cool moves above the break. Right of small pillar, and just left of Whimsical.

2 pitches. An easy first pitch, and a lovely hard pitch hidden up on the orange wall hanging above. Start 5 metres left of the mini-totem pole pillar.

1. 20m (17) Easy, peasy. A mix of FHs and ringbolts. You can lower off the big staple at the top of the wall, or much better, climb up to the ledge and do the second pitch. A rap anchor is 5m to the L, looking in, at the top of P2 of Hells Bells.

2. 22m (25) Steep with a low crux, then nice moves to the top.

Start at blocky black corner 25m left of TD. There is a rap anchor at the top of Pitch 2, so you can do it as a single pitch and rap. This avoids the vegetated upper pitches.

1. 10m (14) Up wall right of corner aiming for a small ledge below orange roof. Single old rusty carrot. Don't stop here - link this with pitch 2.

2. 8m (15) Traverse left to arete plugging good gear in the crack under the roof. Belay at rap chain (stainless).

3. 13m (-) Diagonally left to crack and old bolt belay. Mucho vegeteriano.

4. 10m (16) Crack to bolt belay.

5. 20m (-) Diagonally left for 8m then diagonally right to ledge and tree. Scramble off to the right.

The rightmost route on the ledge, starting at the first double bolt anchor, 3m left of the anchor for Constipation Chimney Variant Start.

Mantle onto ledge, then hard moves up flake to juggy steep climbing. Craft whatever rest you can, because the crux is clipping the anchors (though with a bit of funkiness, it can be made easier).

Resist the temptation to put a giant draw on the anchor, and step up to the challenge to earn the grade!

A surprisingly mellow undertaking despite the roofiness, with a funky gnarly move to gain the lip. Probably sub-24 but for the last move.

The secondmost route from the right, starting at a single bolt anchor, 5m left of the anchor for Constipation Chimney Variant Start. Mantle to ledge, then punch right to flake and up to rest. Then, truck right through roofiness, up to mushroom-jug, and onwards to ultimate finale.

Ideally, clip the anchor from the sloper jugs on the lip, but if they're wet, just do whatever works for you. Single bolt anchor. Backjump to clean.

"...to admit a kangaroo unreservedly to be a man would inevitably involve one in a number of distressing implications, the kangaroolity of women and your wife beside you being one example." -The Good Fairy (At Swim Two Birds)

Shares the first 5 bolts with "Is it About a Bicycle?" before breaking right. Gain the huge roof flake, then jug along with glee to the final, wild boulder problem to turn the roof. Single bolt anchor ABOVE the lip of the roof. Back jump to clean.

Short, but hilarious steep jugging up an overhanging prow.

Shares the first 5 bolts with the Project to the right, before breaking hard left.

Single bolt anchor. Backjump to clean.

Effectively a 2nd pitch to Digitalicious through the short steep roofs above the shale ledge. Short right facing flake, wall then long move through roof to jug. Hand traverse right then up steep wall above to crux section passing the final bolt. Mantle the lip to finish. Back-jump.

The left hand finish to Armistice Direct via an outrageous foot free hand-traverse along a series of incut holds across a blank orange shield. Finish with hands over the lip. Lower off large single U-bolt or backjump.

Both Jason and Macca eyed this line off, nether realizing the other wanted the first ascent. Jason got in first, bolting and climbing it, then Macca did the same route on trad and called it a different name. Confused? Everyone is! The route is the crack on the buttress 2m left of Hells Bells and currently also has ringbolts - although the first has been chopped.

The major exposed black arete on the right side of Ben Trovato Wall. The line looks appealing, but even with considerable recent retrobolting (with permission from first ascentist) this route is still a bold and loose proposition. To do this all on trad like the original rock warriors would be quite the head trip. Wear helmets and take a double rack of cams from finger to fist size to supplement the ringbolts. Leave your bumbly partner at home.

1. 15m (16) A fun and popular sport pitch up the grey face at the base of the mega arete (about 20m right of the metal access rungs to Ben Trovarto Wall). Most parties rap from the ledge and climb something else - if you are a soft rock enthusiast continue reading... (and climbing)

2. 25m (19) Up the arete for a couple of bolts, then a vital #2 Camalot in a funny orange pocket then wall on left side of arete past several bolts and a couple of cams to belay on top of alarming detached block forming ledge. If you've survived the soft rock on this pitch you might as well continue upwards with a bit more air!

3. 40m (19) The money pitch - if your money comes rolled up and splattered with blood and drugs from a wild night out. Spaced cams up the narrow arete for 10m to first thankful bolt. Repeat this experience four times, being very careful with large loose rocks near the top. Belay at double rings on small ledge above roof. Either rap back to the ground here or top out via next mini pitch.

4. 8m (12) Jugs (and you) that may or may not stay attached to top of cliff and tree belay. Not much gear on this pitch.

This route originally traversed in from Colosseum Corner, possibly along the line now bolted as pitch one of Sublime & the Ridiculous, or along a lower break starting at Golden Giles. The exact way has been lost to antiquity. The described first pitch linking into the lower section of the arete direct was added by Monteith in 2010. The rest was retrobolted in early 2017.

Tricky slabbing and sustained face climbing up the orange streak between The Sublime and the Beautiful and San Pornando. Once an intimidating mixed climb on carrots, it's now been retrobolted into a stellar sport climb. Linking P1 and P2 (requires a 70m rope) makes for a stunning pitch of Blueys face climbing.

Start 6-8m right of Colosseum Corner, slightly down the hill at belay bolt.

1. 20m (24) Tricky start through overlap (sounds hollow; take care (or fix it)), then easier climbing up to hard crux just below anchors (8 bolts + anchors).

2. 40m (23) Thin moves off belay, then up grey and orange streak moving slightly right through small overlap, then back left and up slab to anchors (9 bolts + anchors).

3. 10m (16) The easy, chossy final pitch up to shared anchors with TSATB or topout to tree belay (1 bolt + anchors).

Supa fun, big sporty jaunt. Starts as for Colosseum Corner and traverses across Golden Giles to big belay ledge left of arete. Up thin face left of the arete. Take about 12 draws and slings and stuff for the belays. Can either top out (tree belay) or lower off down the route. A 70m rope will get you down in two rappels (using the Golden Giles pitch 1 anchor).

1. 20m (18) Rising to the right, and upto obvious belay ledge.

2. 35m (22) Launch up the thin wall. The money pitch!

3. 20m (20) Can be linked from the 2nd pitch. Up over small bulge and continue to final headwall.

Long sustained face climbing just right of Colosseum Corner on ringbolts. The upper half follows an orange streak. Hidden lower-off anchors are tucked under the rooflet at end of this streak. Can lower off with a 70m (leader may have to downclimb 1m), otherwise re-thread half way down or use double ropes.

Australia's first grade 19! The major corner on the right side of the amazing orange wall. A trad classic, but it needs a bit (heaps!) of gardening, especially the top half which has even got major trees in the last 20m. Easily done in 2 pitches by linking pitches 1&2, and pitches 3&4. Or you can rap off after pitch 1. Add style points if you do it in the original fashion - with the rope tied around the waist and a total of only 9 pieces of lead pro.

1. 20m (19) Technical stemming corner with excellent protection. When the greenery gets too much, traverse left to belay ledge and DRB belay (shared with Ben Trovato).

2. 13m (17) Up shale corner, step right onto arete and up front of juggy detached pillar to large belay ledge. (Memorial Direct variant 32m (~21). The obvious direct continuation of the 1st pitch corner. Instead of traversing left at greenery, simply plug in a nest of gear and launch up the corner and face options that deliver you eventually at some good gear and then up to the large belay ledge atop the original pitch 2. Vertrees and Prior, 2013).

3. 33m (19) Bridge and jam the corner. The original belay was a "bolt anchor 15' diagonally to right", but the tree is actually a lovely little belay spot.

4. 12m Corner to top, good tree belay.

"Cleverly found" indeed. Named "Bentrovarto" in guidebooks for many decades. However, Bryden says the name was contributed by his German climbing partner on the day, and agrees that using the correct Italian spelling is apt. A grand girdle adventure that spends as much time going across as it does going up! Originally done by starting up Colosseum Corner, it is 18 this way. But ever since the FA most people have climbed the crack 3m L of CC as the first pitch, which is 20. The rest of the route is many grades easier.

The pitches are difficult to accurately and independently describe because of the way this route has been retrobolted by the other multis on the wall. The feature is very obvious and the line easy to follow so just belay where is comfortable and makes sense. The only tricky bit of route finding is at the end when you go round the corner on the left side of the main face into the gully and then across it, but as long as you remember to do that you should find the belay okay. From here it is a bit of a no gear choose your own adventure situation to the top.

1. 20m (20) A great sustained pitch - well worth doing in it's own right to the first rap anchor. The steep thin crack eats medium wires (a triple set isn't excessive). Long thought to be a whopping sandbag at grade 18, but this was because the FA actually climbed p1 of Colosseum Corner. The FA of this pitch is unknown.

2. 27m (8) Traverse left and slightly up along the ramp the whole way, passing the RB anchors of Guillotine, Marxism, Vespasian's Wall, miscellaneous ancient carrots, bomber trad, and at least one big loose block. Eventually, belay at Kizashi's DRBs, just before the ramp becomes an almost vertical corner.

3. 13m (14) Steep leftwards corner/ramp to another bolt belay.

4. 31m (-) To ledge, traverse left to nose and up to cave and old bolt belay.

5. 16m (-) Left and around corner on ledge (crawl??) to chimney/gully. Cross the gully to ledge and single carrot and trad belay.

6. 33m (-) Back right across gully onto right wall. Bulge to ledge, then left to tree. Basically no gear, often wet, harder then you want it to be.

7. 13m (-) Back of horrible chimney gully and up, or more pleasantly up the right wall of gully. Also basically no gear, often wet, and harder than you want it to be.

The first pitch is perhaps the best easy sport route on the wall, and the second pitch is even better!! Link them together and you have one of the best pitches at the grade in the Blueys (needs a 70m+ rope, 23 draws, and a re-thread at the first belay when lowering off). The route name comes from the frightening flake that fell off when Neil was bolting the first pitch - which is now embedded in the ground at the base. Historically this route has a murky past - the first pitch had a couple of poorly placed rings in already, that Neil pulled out with his fingers (!), whilst the 2nd pitch had been half bolted with carrots by Giles Bradbury in the 90s but then abandoned.

Starts 4m left of Ben Trovato at small tree.

1. 20m (22) Stem off tree for a few moves, then a bouldery pull onto the flake to reach better holds. Motor up lovely orange rock to anchor on small ledge. The start has been done without the tree at 23/4, but this makes the pitch less classic.

2. 28m (24) Fantastic climbing. Loads of bolts. Pumper crux at the top and superb rock. WATCH YOUR ROPE LENGTH when lowering back to the belay.

Wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off at grade 23/24. Link into the 2nd pitch for an epic 50m 24 - and if you are really keen continue up the final crimpy finale at 28 for the mega pitch to the top. A couple of long draws and a single length sling are useful for the link-ups. Pitch 2 and 3 were first climbed before pitch 1 - with a belay on the small ledge. If you plan to belay from the ground and link into pitch 2 you will want a 70m rope minimum (and still need a rethread).

Marxism is the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack.

1. 30m (24) One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. The best way to do it is to start up Vespasian's Wall for 3 bolts, then traverse right into rising line of bolts. (The original grade 23 start used to have a large dead tree to stand on to reach the first holds. Now its a stick clip and awkward batman, so just do the new start which is longer and more sustained).

2. 25m (24) The right line of bolts directly above the three bolt belay. Long sustained orange wall - a couple of crazy fragile features spices things up. Finish at last good jugs at lower-off.

3. 12m (28) Link this from pitch 2. Either belay from P1 mini ledge - or the ground. Really awesome climbing on thin edges with a long vertical crux move to undercling a shallow flake!

Starts as for Marxism (pitch 2), then trends a bit left! Weaves around quite a bit, eventually finishing at DRB 6m below the top.

Ewbank's original aid line turns out to be an absolute cracker of a free route. A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbank's) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it, Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 8m left of Guillotine.

1. 25m (25) Possibly the best single pitch on Ben Trovato wall. Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. Ignore the manky chain at 20m and continue another 5m to a new anchor.

2. 8m (14) Continue up and left on easy grey ground past another bolt to cosy foot ledge and DRB. (35m to ground). You can get here more easily via Guillotine p1 if you prefer.

3. 20m (24) Step right to the flake/corner left of the guano, then take the orange streak above the guano. Currently finishes after about 20m, just below an overlap, 3m above a jug rail. This pitch is really good, on fantastic orange rock, tho you need to lower off a single ring. A proper anchor will hopefully appear some day.

The bolted continuation for another 15-20m to DRB near the top is open, help yourself. Will be 27+, and is increasingly let down by the usual deteriorating rock quality up there.

Another sustained outing up a slightly overhung wall. A bit of an ugly duckling for the first couple of bolts - then greatly improves on sharp edges and flakes. Feet are often very minimal. Up for 8 bolts then traverse hard left across wall to finish up Kizashi to it's lower anchor. Starts 5m L of VW.

The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off.

Roughly translates as "something great is coming". Thin seam crack that gets harder the higher you go. Never fear, there are no jams - it's all face moves and chicken wing gastons. Starts on the right edge of small chossy cavelet in the middle of Ben Trovato Wall. Finishes at first set of double U bolts 3/4 of the way up the wall (extension is 29).

Ignore the first set of anchors and keep on climbing up the ever thinning seam crack that eventually fades to crimps. Mega. (There is also a couple of bolts above the extension on the juggy grey slab above to reach the main ledge - but no pitch above these.)

A long second pitch above Kizashi Extension - starting on the halfway ledge, 2m right of the vertical corner pitch of Ben Trovato (in the centre of the wall). Can be approached by climbing pitch 1 of Guillotine, Marxism or Vespasian's then traverse left along ledge to double bolt belay. The route climbs a long sustained face with a slight left trend - to eventually join into the finish of Sadomastication Pitch 3 for the last couple of bolts. Use a long sling on the first 'shared' bolt to avoid rope drag.

Links the start of Kizashi into the finish of Sadomastication at about the 8th bolt. Very sustained steep wall climbing with a punchy reachy finish. Watch your rope length for the lower-off.

Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level. Has been led as one giant 70m pitch from the ground!

1. 27m (26) Very sustained face climbing. The red and black face with shallow pockets and flakes. Considered hard for 26.

2. 20m (22) This pitch is best done by moving the belay 10m left to Microdermabrasia, or doing a runout climb up to join the pitch at the third bolt. Out right, up a bit then back left to belay on comfy ledge. Contrived in the middle.

3. 25m (23) Right most route off the high ledge. A bit of a pumper with big exposure! Fantastic big move to finish.