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Campsite Area

  • 难度体系: AU
  • 照片: 2
  • 攀登: 63

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描述

From the back of campsites 31, 32 or 33 (see http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/314472/Park-note-Mt-Buffalo-Lake-Catani-summer-camping.pdf ) head up hill. There's a few bolders. Paralax boulder is on the right. Boldfinger is the diagonal crack facing camp, Paralax the splitter on the southern face. 2 carrots for anchors on top. Descend by downclimbing (scary) or simulrapping.

行为准则 取自Mount Buffalo

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

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线路

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Looking at campsite 28, walk about 10-15m into the bush to the couple of boulders. The right taller boulder starting on the arete, with a 3 finger pocket high right and a side pulling crimp left, head straight up for a slaby and messy finish

首攀: Josh Jordan, 12 11月 2018

首攀: Peter Watson & Nic Taylor, 1976

From Site 16, walk about 30m up the hill to the jumble of scrappy boulders and skirt to the left. A short and wickedly left-curving offwidth, capped by a small roof, presents itself.

Set a top-rope off of bomber boulder anchors on top, lead it (nothing bigger than #4 camalots required), or suck it up and boulder it out...

Excellent after-dinner or after-breakfast entertainment (for spectators)

首攀: Ro Latimer, Samuel May & James Bultitude, 2013

This is a traverse around the outside of the Lake Catani Shelter. Begin by standing inside the hut and the problem commences as you step directly out onto the rock façade of the building in the left direction. Continue around all walls of the building until you return to the door and can finally step back inside onto the ground. Whilst not technically that difficult it is an epic endurance problem with many pinch grips. Use of the wooden eaves is forbidden and you cannot sit on the window ledges for rest. Link up with a second loop of the hut by traversing the doorway and beginning the problem again.

自由首攀: Annie P, 31 3月 2019

首攀: Annie P, 31 3月 2019

Dubious splits across two boulders with a sketchy fall included.

5-10 minute scramble straight out of campsite 28, at the third set of boulders.

首攀: Isaac Richardson

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Simon Murray and Kevin Lindorff

日期: 2006

"The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts.

The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts. This 234 page guide is the most comprehensive guide for Mt Buffalo and even though being the 5th edition released in 2006, is the latest version."

作者: Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

日期: 2011

国际书号: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

作者: Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

日期: 1994

国际书号: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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